Time to replace the pooper!

[ranger58sb]

If our solenoid fails, it lets fresh water into the the bowl... but the bowl doesn't automatically drain to the holding tank.


It can if it's a downhill run from the toilet to the tank and the joker valve in the toilet has even a little age on it. How fast the bowl can drain depends on how worn out the joker valve is. Even slow seepage can fill a tank in several days away from boat...a joker valve that's so old the slit has become a hole can do it in hours.

Hmmm... I can envision that... but then our hose from the bowl starts with an overhand loop from the motor... and then it's a downhill-then-uphill run to the tank... so I guess that's never happened in our case. Maybe it could, if left on its own for a longer period...

-Chris

 

[BrianSmith]

The Profile systems are the top rated tank level monitors...can never clog because thes sender goes on the outside of the tank. Scad Tank Monitors (also available direct from the mfr for a lower price Profile Tank Monitors

Any "lockout" device that would prevent the toilet from flushing would not be integral to the tank level monitor, but would have to be connected to the toilet's flush button or panel with a means of recognizing the "full" reading on the tank monitor.

Installing the tank level readout panel in the head and paying enough attention to it to know when the tank is approaching full would be a lot simpler and doesn't risk having a full bowl that can't be flushed.


--Peggie

Has someone actually done some comparison testing (Consumer Reports-like) of tank level monitors? I'd love to see the results. Capacitive sensors are fine, but not without their limitations. The ones that are inside a tube that goes into the tank would probably be more accurate (and the copper pieces can't peel off the tank), but if all you want is 1/4 increments, I suppose any of them would work well. I've heard some good things about ultrasonic sensors, but without a valid comparison, who's to say which one is really "top rated"?

RE: the risk of having a full bowl that can't be flushed - I think that's the whole point of the shutoff systems. When the tank is FULL, there's no point (and possibly some harm) from flushing it. I'm not making a judgement (I've never had a system like this), but a warning by the head when it's almost full, and a shutoff when it's FULL, doesn't seem like a bad thing.

 

[HeadMistress]

Has someone actually done some comparison testing (Consumer Reports-like) of tank level monitors?


Yep... Practical Sailor Practical Sailor, the recreational boating "Consumer Report" magazine for more than 30 years, did a comparison of tank level indicators systems a few years ago...SCAD was the top rated system. I no longer have that issue, but I'm pretty sure they'll send you that review if you ask nicely.

Btw, don't be misled by the title Practical SAILOR. For years Belvoir (the publisher) also published Powerboat Reports...discontinuing it when they recognized how much duplication of information there was in them because most of the same products and systems are equally applicable to both power and sail. So Practical Sailor became the "bible" for owners of both.

--Peggie

 

[Comodave]

We had a head that was fresh water flush that the solenoid leaked and filled the head on its own. When the head filled to a certain level water would flow into the holding tank. It was an 80 gallon holding tank so it took a while to fill the tank. Only way I found out about it was that the holding tank filled up so the head could not flow water into the tank. The head then overflowed on the deck and when I got to the boat I found the water on the deck and began investigating why the water was there. Replaced the solenoid and the joker valve. Problem fixed.

 

[Bigsfish]

Peggie

I subscribed to PS for many years for the reason you list, however about a year ago I quit my subscription because I found it no longer gave much print to power boats but was giving more to sailboats.

 

[toocoys]

Ok, this is where I am.

Apparently Raritan has discontinued the straight electric conversion kit. Part 160LF012 looks like its been discontinued. The only part I can readily find is 169000W which is the SeaEra replacement base assembly, and I don't think that will work with my Jabsco bowl, since the pressurized water inlet on the bowl is different than the Raritan's.

I'm figuring I'm just going to replace the jabsco 37010 pumps, save a few bucks, and call it a day. The only thing I want to really change at this point is the single flush operation to a dual switch with allows you to add water and add water/flush at the same time.

 

[HeadMistress]

If it's been discontinued, it had to happened very recently because my link to it on the Raritan site still works Raritan SeaEra Conversion Promo Sheet

I don't think that will work with my Jabsco bowl, since the pressurized water inlet on the bowl is different than the Raritan's.

You wouldn't be replacing the bowl if you go with a "conversion," you'd only be replacing everything below the bowl.

I've read your PM and replied to it and will be glad to help you sort all this out in the morning.

--Peggie

 

[toocoys]

If it's been discontinued, it had to happened very recently because my link to it on the Raritan site still works Raritan SeaEra Conversion Promo Sheet

I don't think that will work with my Jabsco bowl, since the pressurized water inlet on the bowl is different than the Raritan's.

You wouldn't be replacing the bowl if you go with a "conversion," you'd only be replacing everything below the bowl.

I've read your PM and replied to it and will be glad to help you sort all this out in the morning.

--Peggie

The promo sheet may still be available, but the actual part doesnt' seem to be available from any retailers. West Marine, Defender, etc.

Raritan part 160LF012, the actual fresh water conversion kit, I can only find on Amazon here.

The Raritan part 169000W is the Sea Era replacement base assembly, which I do not think is the same as the conversion kit. Most retailers only carry this part, or the integral part for raw water flush.

The first part Raritan 160LF012 looks a lot like my Jabsco macerator base, while the Raritan 169000W doesn't look anything like it.

Also, it would appear that the Raritan conversion kit was discontinued way back in 2017, as your post in this thread discusses it.

ETA: There's another thread on CF asking if they're obsolete as well. Apparently they aren't discontinued or obsolete, they just aren't well stocked. I guess they dont sell enough. Either way, it would be good information for Raritan to put out explaining the details of these things more in depth.

 

[HopCar]

Toocoys, skip the retailers and call Raritan directly. It might be that it is available but doesn’t sell fast enough for the retailers to stock it. If Raritan says it’s available, ask your neighborhood marine store to special order it for you.

If you have a problem, call Ronnie at my old company. The phone number is 305-635-7377. Ronnie is Mr. Customer Service.

 

[toocoys]

As per Bryan at Raritan customer service, part 160LF012 has now been replaced with part 162LF012. This is a single button flush mechanism.

If you want the dual switch version (add water, add water/flush) the part number needed is 162LF01201.

These part numbers are not showing up on retailer websites however. Bryan states that they ARE available, but will probably drop ship from Raritan, after you order them from whomever.

ETA: If fact, after speaking directly with Defender, they did not stock them, nor did they have the part numbers. Wendy in customer service has to actually CALL Raritan to verify part numbers and pricing and call me back.

ETA ETA: I spoke with Wendy at Defender who spoke directly to Raritan. Part 162LF012, or 162LF01201 ARE available, but Raritan has to actually build them before they can be shipped to you. Additionally, Defender priced them at $602 each, with is even more than their SeaEra Compact Electric toilets which are priced at $554 at Defender. So it seems that the conversion kits are not a viable option any longer.

 

[toocoys]

Toocoys, skip the retailers and call Raritan directly. It might be that it is available but doesn’t sell fast enough for the retailers to stock it. If Raritan says it’s available, ask your neighborhood marine store to special order it for you.

If you have a problem, call Ronnie at my old company. The phone number is 305-635-7377. Ronnie is Mr. Customer Service.

I was on the phone with Raritan as you posted! Mystery solved!

 

[ranger58sb]

I'm figuring I'm just going to replace the jabsco 37010 pumps, save a few bucks, and call it a day. The only thing I want to really change at this point is the single flush operation to a dual switch with allows you to add water and add water/flush at the same time.

I've lost track of the details... is your 37010 a raw water version? If so, are you (or are you considering) converting to fresh water?

I'm not really informed about any differences between a 37010 fresh water version (assume there is one?) and a Quiet Flush 37045 fresh water version....

But if you're on raw water now and considering change to fresh, would the 37045 Quiet Flush base/bowl fit as an exact replacement on your mount? FWIW, the QF (also) has a three way controller: one button to flush/rinse, and a rocker to either flush without rinsing or to add water without flushing.

-Chris

 

[toocoys]

I've lost track of the details... is your 37010 a raw water version? If so, are you (or are you considering) converting to fresh water?

We are on fresh water pressurized system with a solenoid valve.

 

[ranger58sb]

That's similar to our 37045 electric freshwater system, then...

I dunno what differences might be, aside from maybe the (degree of) "Quiet" thing. And that seems to vary in the ear of the beholder. To me, it's quiet -- especially so shortly after installing a new motor, and it's also quieter when flushed with the seat down -- but then I can only compare to a VacuFlush in our last previous boat.

-Chris

 

[FlyWright]

Why not stick with Jabsco parts and kits to convert a Jabsco bowl to FW flush? Is there an advantage to using Raritan parts instead of Jabsco?

 

[BrianSmith]

Has someone actually done some comparison testing (Consumer Reports-like) of tank level monitors?


Yep... Practical Sailor Practical Sailor, the recreational boating "Consumer Report" magazine for more than 30 years, did a comparison of tank level indicators systems a few years ago...SCAD was the top rated system. I no longer have that issue, but I'm pretty sure they'll send you that review if you ask nicely.

--Peggie

It took only a few seconds with their website's search function to find the article you're referring to, from Feb 2008. In that article, they tested only EXTERNAL tank level sensors. Later that year, they tested INTERNAL sensors. I can't find anywhere that they concluded whether they liked the internal or external better. I guess it depends on how much you want to spend, and how precise you want the output.

https://www.practical-sailor.com/issues/34_2/features/External-Marine-Tank-Sensors_5570-1.html

https://www.practical-sailor.com/issues/35_7/features/Holding-Tank-Sensors_5799-1.html

 

[toocoys]

Why not stick with Jabsco parts and kits to convert a Jabsco bowl to FW flush? Is there an advantage to using Raritan parts instead of Jabsco?

Peggy said Raritan was the best of the best so thats what I was going to do. But as it turns out the conversion kits are a special order thing, and the kits cost more than a brand new Sea Era toilet. So at this point, I've ordered saniflex hoses, and new pumps for our Jabsco toilets. We're already on pressurized water flushes, its jut that the pumps are 23 years old and have gone out.

 

[ben2go]

It took only a few seconds with their website's search function to find the article you're referring to, from Feb 2008. In that article, they tested only EXTERNAL tank level sensors. Later that year, they tested INTERNAL sensors. I can't find anywhere that they concluded whether they liked the internal or external better. I guess it depends on how much you want to spend, and how precise you want the output.

https://www.practical-sailor.com/issues/34_2/features/External-Marine-Tank-Sensors_5570-1.html

https://www.practical-sailor.com/issues/35_7/features/Holding-Tank-Sensors_5799-1.html

I believe they leave the dis/like up to the reader, or so it seems to me.

 

[JYoung]

Anyone know someone in the Vero Beach area who is very good at this type of conversion and installation?