Time to break out the hazmat suit?

[Chris Foster]

Can't put it off any more - I'm going to have to overhaul the aft head this summer.* About half of what is supposed to go out is coming back through the flush when the inlet water is turned off, so I imagine the piston seals are history.

It's a Raritan PH II - probably not much different than any other manual head.

On a nastiness scale of 1-10, how bad is it gonna be??

 

[FF]

On a nastiness scale of 1-10, how bad is it gonna be??



Just keep flushing till what comes back is clean , probably mostly the Joker Valve , so a pail that will hold the discharge hose full of water is all that will be needed. A ONE* just a 1/2 hour of cutting off the bolts that hold the joker valve , or if there Bronze , just a wrench and screwdriver..

If the discharge hose is really old you may find it partially plugged. Replace it , or take it to the parking lot and beat a rock till the internal* deposits break loose.

-- Edited by FF on Wednesday 10th of June 2009 04:35:51 AM

 

[troy994719]

FF wrote:

If the discharge hose is really old you may find it partially plugged. Replace it , or take it to the parking lot and beat a rock till the internal* deposits break loose.


---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------



Do yourself a huge favor and REPLACE the hose, its not worth saving a couple bucks by beating the crap out of the old one. I have seen people do this and I cant believe people are that cheap! I had a dock neighbor try to get me to do it on a 18 inch section of hose, he couldnt believe I was going to spent $20 on a new hose.
Remember you only want to have to do this once!

 

[Phil Fill]

*
I agree with FF is probable the chocker valve/flap. I replace ours abut ever 6 months.* The chocker valve/flap is usually at the discharge connections.* Flush until clean water, then take a wet vac and vacuum out the water, undue the hose connection.* Should take a couple of minutes.


*
It you want to replace the hose, a couple of days before flush clean and pour/flush some Pinesoil or something that smell good and let sit.* Then with a wet vac vacuum out the water, and plug both ends.* I convert to fresh water and w spray Clorox spray to clean, disinfect and clean out the hose.* However, we get pump every week so not concerned about killing the tank bugs.* Anyway, it should not be to bad of a job. **

 

[Keith]

A Raritan PHII is a breeze to rebuild, although you might just want to try changing the joker valve first. Make sure you know which model you have... there are different rebuild kits for those built before a certain year. One has a 1200cc pump as I recall. Don't forget to close the water supply valves!

 

[Chris Foster]

Thanks for the info.* I'll be getting to it next month when I return to the great green north for the summer.*

I use the poor man's fresh water flush a lot, since the shower is directly above the potty.* WIll have to figure out the vintage of the unit for the right kit - I note that the newest kits are the most expensive.* Sigh.

 

[FF]

"I use the poor man's fresh water flush a lot, since the shower is directly above the potty. "

Works for us too, but for folks switching to built in FW flush , don't forget the VACUUM BREAKER!

 

[Forkliftt]

Sloboat,How about more info on a vented loop. Is it installed in the large line to the holding tank? I recently removed the Y fittings to our heads and ran new hoses (tank truck/ oil resistant). Should I have installed a vented loop?
Steve

 

[Keith]

You only need a vented loop to keep fluids from siphoning back into the toilet. They're normally used when the toilet is flushing out to sea. The only way you would want/need one pumping strictly to a holding tank was if the holding tank was higher than the toilet, and could siphon back.