Strap down holding tank

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Baggiolini

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 9, 2011
Messages
406
Location
USA
Vessel Name
Mahalo
Vessel Make
Defever 44
I got the survey mandated by the insurance company stooge back this morning and one of the two minor issues raised was strapping down my 40 gallon holding tank. What do I use for this? The PO had used metal plumbers "tape", metal strap with screw holes every 1/2 inch. That had rusted away by the time I got here. Not sure what to use.
 
minor issues raised was strapping down my 40 gallon holding tank.

Strapping down a holding tank is not a minor issue. A holding tank that moves around can be smelly at the least or downright dangerous at the most. FRP tabs with suitable SS bolts and angle bracing are a common way to keep it in place
 
We have run of the mill ratcheting straps from the local auto parts store.


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Strapping down a holding tank is not a minor issue. A holding tank that moves around can be smelly at the least or downright dangerous at the most

Sunchaser, I meant "minor" in terms of what the surveyor could have found.....stringers are mush, there is a hole at your water line, engine mounts are not connected to anything....etc!
 
Plumbers strapping is also sold in a copper version if the problem was rust.
 
Plumbers strapping is also sold in a copper version if the problem was rust.

I think the copper version is only copper plated, so it won't last long either.

I like a treated lumber "bar" over my tanks & battery box with SS threaded rod down to timber or struts up to timber.
 
Good ratcheting cargo straps would be a good way to cinch it down. Cleaner, as neat and a whole lot simpler than what I did. Some of those ratchets are available in SS although if the bilge is dry plated steel will last for years.
I use those to strap my batteries down.

Years ago I built and installed our holding tank.
I built a curb all the way around the tank bottom so as long as it is held down it cannot go anywhere.
To the platform I added 'U'bolts mounted through the curbing and then used 1/8" SS wire running rigging with nicropress sleeves and thimbles for the loops and a couple of turnbuckles to adjust tension. I check the turnbuckles periodically to be sure they are still snug.
I did add a piece of SS angle across the top, front and back, to carry the load of the wire so there is no direct contact of the tank. I grooved the angle so the wire makes a radiused turn rather than a sharp bend.

I don't think the perforated copper strapping would be good enough for this though unless you had a really high curb. It is available in pure copper as well as the plated steel but without some thought would be difficult to rig a tensioner that would not tear the holes. It is intended for light loads. Can be done but there are better ways and the cinch straps with ratchets are one way. Just get ones, straps, with a decent load rating.
 
"I think the copper version is only copper plated, so it won't last long either."

You get what you pay for ,
 
I think the copper version is only copper plated, so it won't last long either.

I like a treated lumber "bar" over my tanks & battery box with SS threaded rod down to timber or struts up to timber.
a good method...one can also use aluminum or stainless "box" or "L" .

Plumbers strapping also comes in plastic and evenly spaced holes. It is tough enough to keep small items from sliding around...might check it/test it for heavier items. Just has to hold things in place, not upside down like some would have you believe.....you know, in case your trawler rolls over in mountainous seas....:eek:
 
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"Just has to hold things in place, not upside down like some would have you believe."

The actual use in many structures is to hold UP overhead water / waste lines., keep them from sagging or snaping with a load.

Like a waste line that only gets "heavy" during a flush or bathtub drain..that could be 2 inch plastic and have a 40ft run . A couple of support spots with perf tape is easier than std threaded pipe hangars.
 
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