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Old 12-16-2018, 09:44 PM   #1
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smelly head

i have electric heads fore and aft. The bow cabin opens to the head. There is an acrid smell in the head and the cabin. I sealed the bowl with plastic wrap and the smell dimenished noticeably. The other head has no smell and no bad smells come out the vent with a flush. We keep the tank empty since it required a repair last year. I recently replaced the pump macerator last fall. I am not sure what all this means but I feel it is a head issue. Has anyone been through this? OB
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Old 12-16-2018, 10:14 PM   #2
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Assuming that your boat is on the TN River....Do your toilets use lake/river water or onboard pressurized fresh water? Does one toilet get a lot more use than the other one? Has the forward head sat unused for an extended time? You said there's no odor out the vent when the aft head is flushed..is there any when the forward head is flushed? Does flushing the forward toilet create odor IN the head? Is there a shower in the forward head...if so, is it used and does it drain into a sump?



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Old 12-17-2018, 02:31 PM   #3
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Smell head

Sorry did not answer all the questions. There is a shower in the bow head. I have cleaned it . It has very little smell. The only time we get true waste smell is when the tank is full.
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Old 12-17-2018, 02:43 PM   #4
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Maybe a bad joker valve on that particular head?
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Old 12-17-2018, 02:53 PM   #5
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The answers to my questions will help me identify the SOURCE of your odor. From what little information you've provided, I'm not even sure the toilet is the culprit...You've described two types of odor--"acrid" and "waste." That indicates TWO sources.



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Old 12-17-2018, 05:39 PM   #6
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sorry - sent my response but didnt come through. We ;use the bow head more since the tank is 6 ft away and we therefore put less water in waste tank.The aft head is probably 15 to 18ft away from the waste tank.The heads use lake water. There has never been an immediate smell from flushing the aft or bow head.We've only had poop smell once last fall when the tank was full. Pumping out solved that.There are not two smells.I know the waste smell quite well- when we bought the boat the waste hoses had visible crystals on the outside and the waste tank had a leak - that was subsequently fixed.There is a shower in the bow head- I have cleaned the sump pump box even though it did not smell bad - we do not shower in that head but I routinely put small amounts of vinegar and bleach into the shower.I'm not sure the smell is from the head but a tight seal with handiwrap diminished it Also,I replaced the joker valve.What I am smelling is really not a sewage type of odor. I have no standing water in the bllge so I'm perplexed. We love the boat so we can live with it if it persists.
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Old 12-17-2018, 08:35 PM   #7
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Donít know about the water where you boat, but the water in Lake Erie after sitting in the bowl/pump/lines sitting for a week at some times in the season smells worse than poop. A long flush clears it out. I would describe it as acrid.

It only happens a few times a season, usually in the spring.
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Old 12-17-2018, 09:29 PM   #8
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Donít know about the water where you boat, but the water in Lake Erie after sitting in the bowl/pump/lines sitting for a week at some times in the season smells worse than poop. A long flush clears it out. I would describe it as acrid...
I thought that too, but there`s one head that`s ok,and one that`s not,both fed the same water. Though the non smelly one gets less (? maybe no?) use.
We are in salt> brackish water and can get an unpleasant but not sewage like smell.
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Old 12-18-2018, 10:06 AM   #9
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I think I know what the problem is: I'm 99% certain that the odor orginates in the toilet intake. This toilet has either pulled a bit of vegetable "sea" life in that's decayed somewhere between the thru-hull and the bowl (If you've noticed any black flecks in the flush water, I'm sure that's what it is, but no flecks doesn't rule it out)...or your favorite anchorage is in a cove that isn't fed by a creek...creeks keep water moving, which keeps it clean. Could even be the water in your marina, if you spend much time on the boat there...runoff from the shore, bilge pumps etc keep the water in marinas pretty skanky.

It's easy enough to find out: Disconnect the toilet intake line from the thru-hull (close the seacock first!) and stick into a bucket of water to which you've added a quart of distilled white vinegar. Flush the whole bucketful through the toilet. That SHOULD solve the problem.


And btw...stop using bleach in the shower sump...it's corrosive and destructive to rubber, which is bad for the sump pump.


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Old 12-22-2018, 05:42 PM   #10
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thanks for the help . I'll flush the head with vinegar,OB
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Old 12-22-2018, 10:01 PM   #11
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Mam, if I ever meet you I want to buy you a drink! Learned more from you than anyone else on here.
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Old 12-23-2018, 08:03 AM   #12
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Thank you for the kind words! I'm always glad to help when I can, and I'm fond of good scotch.



Merry Christmas!


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Old 12-31-2018, 10:12 PM   #13
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And btw...stop using bleach in the shower sump...it's corrosive and destructive to rubber, which is bad for the sump pump. --Peggie
How about vinegar to clean the shower sump?
Our OEM sump collects all grey water,it has a flipper switch and way oversized bilge pump but no filter. Recently the flipper switch got gunked up and stuck, cleaned it worked fine again.
Would an occasional vinegar solution flush keep it clean. If so, what % vinegar to water, and should it be allowed stand a while to take effect?
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Old 01-01-2019, 07:26 AM   #14
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Sumps don't have to stink or get "gummed up" and keeping 'em clean is one job that doesn't require any manual labor: Raritan only markets their "C.P. Cleans Potties" as a bowl cleaner--and it is an excellent one. But it's also the best sump and drain cleaner on the planet. C.P. is a bio-enzymatic cleaner that not only destroys odor on contact, but the enzymes in it "eat" hair, soap scum, body oils, galley grease and all the stuff that clogs sumps and drains and makes 'em stinky. All you need to do is put 2-3 oz down the shower drain when it can stand at least overnight...the enzymes need time to work. Then flush clean water through the sump. You can even let it remain in the sump for weeks, 'cuz although the enzymes exhaust themselves in 24 hours, there's nothing in C.P. that can harm anything. To clean sink drains, close the seacock, then put about an ounce of C.P down the drain and fill the drain with water--again when it can stand at least overnight. That's it.



I know how expensive Raritan products can be in OZ, Bruce, but you'd need so little of it only about once a month, if that often, that C.P. is worth the price.


Happy New Year!



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Old 01-01-2019, 04:58 PM   #15
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Thanks Peggie, Happy New Year to you too.
I did a quick search for Raritan products,I`ll have to search more deeply,sounds like it will work. The pump is a 2000GPH US made monster(in sump terms) which blasts any hair and debris out. It`s gunk from washing up, showering,soap residues,etc that causes the problem.
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Old 01-01-2019, 05:30 PM   #16
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AMI Sales is Raritan's OZ distributor...their go-to contact to find anything anywhere in OZ is Troy Cameron in their NSW location.
Tel: (+61) 2 9816 7100
Fax: (+61) 2 9817 3755
e-mail: nsw@amisales.com.au
www.amisales.com.au


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Old 01-05-2019, 12:21 AM   #17
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Peggie, I found this, sounds similar in application,available at the local chandlers. Worth a try?
Instafresh Holding Tank Treatment ‚Äď Fresh Pine Scent
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Old 01-05-2019, 09:31 AM   #18
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It's not even close to Raritan C.P. I wouldn't use it. It took some digging but I finally found the MSDS for it...as a pdf, not a link. "Non-formaldehyde formula" only means that at least one other equally lethal chemical is used...in this case
N-Alkyl-(C12-C18)-N-benzyl-N, 68391-01-5 < 10
N-dimethylammonium chloride2.

(everything from here is copy-pasted from the MSDS)
Hazardous to the aquatic environment, acute Category 1 hazard
Environmental hazards: Hazard statement Causes severe skin burns and eye damage. Very toxic to aquatic life.
Do not breathe mist or vapor. Wear protective gloves/protective clothing/eye protection/face protection. Wash thoroughly after handling. Avoid release to the environment.
(end copied material)

I can attach the MSDS to an email reply anyone wants to see it...just include your email address in a PM.

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Old 01-06-2019, 09:11 PM   #19
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Sumps don't have to stink or get "gummed up" and keeping 'em clean is one job that doesn't require any manual labor: Raritan only markets their "C.P. Cleans Potties" as a bowl cleaner--and it is an excellent one. But it's also the best sump and drain cleaner on the planet. C.P. is a bio-enzymatic cleaner that not only destroys odor on contact, but the enzymes in it "eat" hair, soap scum, body oils, galley grease and all the stuff that clogs sumps and drains and makes 'em stinky. All you need to do is put 2-3 oz down the shower drain when it can stand at least overnight...the enzymes need time to work. Then flush clean water through the sump. You can even let it remain in the sump for weeks, 'cuz although the enzymes exhaust themselves in 24 hours, there's nothing in C.P. that can harm anything. To clean sink drains, close the seacock, then put about an ounce of C.P down the drain and fill the drain with water--again when it can stand at least overnight. That's it.

--Peggie

CP does a great job on the heads, I didn't know about the shower sump. I just left the boat for a few weeks and dumped a generous amount into the shower drains. Hopefully this will minimize my having to do that nasty job of cleaning out the shower sump.
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Old 01-06-2019, 10:18 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HeadMistress View Post
Sumps don't have to stink or get "gummed up" and keeping 'em clean is one job that doesn't require any manual labor: Raritan only markets their "C.P. Cleans Potties" as a bowl cleaner--and it is an excellent one. But it's also the best sump and drain cleaner on the planet. C.P. is a bio-enzymatic cleaner that not only destroys odor on contact, but the enzymes in it "eat" hair, soap scum, body oils, galley grease and all the stuff that clogs sumps and drains and makes 'em stinky. All you need to do is put 2-3 oz down the shower drain when it can stand at least overnight...the enzymes need time to work. Then flush clean water through the sump. You can even let it remain in the sump for weeks, 'cuz although the enzymes exhaust themselves in 24 hours, there's nothing in C.P. that can harm anything. To clean sink drains, close the seacock, then put about an ounce of C.P down the drain and fill the drain with water--again when it can stand at least overnight. That's it.



I know how expensive Raritan products can be in OZ, Bruce, but you'd need so little of it only about once a month, if that often, that C.P. is worth the price.


Happy New Year!



--Peggie


We use biotal to clean the heads and send it down into the sump. There was a bottle of CP onboard when we bought our boat that we may try. Ideally we only need one product to store for both uses.
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