Seacocks - When to Close Them

[saltcod]

I had another go at the large seacock for the starboard raw water intake today. Put a 12-point socket on it with a 1/2" long handled torque wrench. Still no go. I tried all three of the smaller ones farther forward as well, without success. I pulled the water drain plug out of the big one, there was grease on the end of the plug. I'm going to try screwing a grease fitting into it and see if I can pump some grease in. If that fails to work on any of them, I am planning on hauling out in March, so I'll get after it then.

 

[BruceK]

This thread reminds me of standing/jumping on the OEM wrench to change a car tyre, after someone overtightened it with an air wrench. Don`t get too aggressive, a fountain in the bilge is not pretty. I too left mine until a haul out.

 

[saltcod]

I hate for something like this to get the best of me! I recently completed a nut and bolt rotisserie restoration of a 1970 Charger R/T. I did not twist off a single bolt. I am going to keep at it, as it seems like having to haul the boat to look after this seems a bit like defeat to me. I will if I have to though!
Meanwhile I am exercising the 1 free valve every time I am at the boat, and it is getting much easier.
I think eventually, I would be inclined to close all the seacocks every time we left the boat, but doing that would require following a checklist before taking the boat out. I do like Marin's idea of having the engine raw water intakes left open in case the boat needs to be moved by somebody else. I started my 6V53 Detroits today, and as I first cranked one with the fuel shut off for 10 seconds, then for another 10 seconds to get it going, and then repeated the process again with the other, I thought, " nobody that has not started these before will crank them that long, or without fuel to build blower pressure" I hope it never happens...

 

[CPseudonym]

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/replacing_thruhulls

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/seacock_primer

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/seacock_failure_testing

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/tapered_cone_seacocks

A little light reading on the subject for those inclined to study up a bit.

 

[Peter B]

This thread reminds me of standing/jumping on the OEM wrench to change a car tyre, after someone overtightened it with an air wrench. Don`t get too aggressive, a fountain in the bilge is not pretty. I too left mine until a haul out.

Like he said…

 

[FF]

BEWARE , Sea cocks are simple castings , esp the center barrel which is thin after machining.WEAK WEAK WEAK!

The >best< way to free it is by loosening the nut and lock nut and gently tapping the barrel free.

The taper is steep , so 1/4 inch of movement will let a bunch of water flood in.

 

[Bacchus]

RC at Compass Marine has a great webpage of boating How To articles...
Included is one for Servicing Tapered Cone Seacocks

 

[Budds Outlet]

Any comments on this seacock replacement job on a boat I am considering?

 

[No Mast]

We keep raw water intake and fuel feeds closed when at a dock.

One thing to remember with high water alarms is that some have a battery inside the alarm module which will last a long time but eventually need replacing. (there i go adding another thing on the maintenance schedule)

Oh and I second Tom's procedure of having a sign reminding us to open seacocks before starting the engine. We've cut a small slit in ours and actually put the key thru it. Some peace of mind that it won't be inadvertently moved.

 

[RT Firefly]

Greetings,
Mr. BO. Flange does not appear to be bolted through the hull and a bit stingy on the bedding material IMO. Personally, I prefer the tapered seacocks rather than the ball type. Oh, and connect up that bonding wire. Job appears overall to be half done.

 

[angus99]

Greetings,
Mr. BO. Flange does not appear to be bolted through the hull and a bit stingy on the bedding material IMO. Personally, I prefer the tapered seacocks rather than the ball type. Oh, and connect up that bonding wire. Job appears overall to be half done.

Looks like it's not bolted to anything and is held in place by the through hull threads and bedding adhesive.

Compass Marine also has an excellent how-to on a way to install with a backing plate that doesn't require bolts through the hull.

Seacock Backing Plates / Alternate Method / No Through Bolts Photo Gallery by Compass Marine How To at pbase.com

 

[Larry M]

Any comments on this seacock replacement job on a boat I am considering?

Other than the bonding wire which is easy to attach, I wouldn't worry about it. It looks like a "Buck Algonquin" seacock which are bronze. If they used 5200 or 4200 it's not moving. Granted, as previously posted it could be better but it shouldn't be a deal killer. It does look like it was just installed though. The bonding wire looks like it has a little "green" on it and the seacock looks to clean to be in service for very long. Just my 2 cents.

 

[FF]

While it may be called a seacock , what is pictured is nothing more than a ball valve.

The valve choice and the insane concept of gluing it in place when it does have the ability too be bolted in would make me want a very careful survey.

Is this the OEM installation or some past yards work?

If this level of workmanship is through out the boat , I would consider finding a better assembled vessel.

ONE lack of understanding is OK, a boatload might be too much hassle..

Many things can be redone , with time and money to get a safe boat , but if its an OEM install , there may be many more issues even a great surveyor can not find in time.

 

[Budds Outlet]

FF, this is some fairly recent yard work. I believe it was done about a year ago. A further question I have is, with the bonding wire not connected has the thru-hull corroded to the point of weakness that it is likely to fail?

 

[FF]

> A further question I have is, with the bonding wire not connected has the thru-hull corroded to the point of weakness that it is likely to fail?<

Doubtful even in a marina with current in the water,.

Many folks do not believe in grounding everything to become a big anode ,

I have seen many boats with ZERO bonding , still not with pink bronze after 3 or 4 decades.

>this is some fairly recent yard work<

Would be nice for the folks to know what yard , to put on there NEVER! EVER list.

 

[No Mast]

FF, this is some fairly recent yard work. I believe it was done about a year ago. A further question I have is, with the bonding wire not connected has the thru-hull corroded to the point of weakness that it is likely to fail?

I doubt it very much. In fact many european sailboats do not ground their thru hulls at all by design. We owned one for almost 8 years and it was never an issue.