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05-02-2017, 11:48 AM
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#1
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Veteran Member
City: Blacksburg
Vessel Name: Sea Fever
Vessel Model: Grand Banks 49 Classic
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 40
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Seacocks and BREAKER BARS?
When I bought my 83 Grand Banks 49, both engines' seacocks were frozen in the open position. My mechanic was able to "unfreeze" them with a little WD, patience and a 14-16", black, approximately 1-1/2" diameter hard rubber/plastic tube which he slipped over the handle and applied torque to it. I asked him what he used, and he said with a smile that it was a "good tool".
I've been looking for that "good tool" since then......hardware stores, Lowe's, HD, Walmart, on line looking for a BREAKER BAR. A guy at one hardware store told me that's what it was called. Don't think so.
On my next pull out I will replace both seacockes, but until then (2 years), I'd like to find this tool since it was so effective.
Any thoughts?
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05-02-2017, 11:56 AM
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#2
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Guru
City: Everett, WA
Vessel Model: Ocean Alexander 38'
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 799
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"Cheater" bar is what I call them.
If you have to use one to open or close your Seacocks, I think I'd step up the haul out and replacement schedule for sooner than later.
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05-02-2017, 11:59 AM
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#3
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Guru
City: Gig Harbor
Vessel Name: Kinship
Vessel Model: North Pacific 43
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 9,046
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A short length of black PVC pipe.
As was mentioned, at the next haul out, take those seacocks apart and service them. In the mean time, exercise them regularly.
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05-02-2017, 12:00 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
City: Essex, Ct.
Vessel Name: Harmony
Vessel Model: 1982 41' President
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 436
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Get a 2" diameter piece of pipe, or whatever size pipe ID will fit over your seacock handle. Minimal clearance is better. I have one stored in my engine room for just this purpose. SS pipe is not that expensive. 2" x 14" long is around $45
__________________
Tom
"Harmony"
1982 41' President
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05-02-2017, 12:49 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
City: Comox
Vessel Model: 1989 Wellington 57 motorsailer
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 281
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Agree with TJM that any pipe with just enough ID to slide over the handle is best. 12 to 16" long is plenty. If you have a scrap metal yard nearby you should be able to find what you need real cheap.
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05-02-2017, 01:10 PM
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#7
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Enigma
City: Slicker?
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 16,541
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Greetings,
Mr. CSF. I fully agree with Mr. MS. Hauling sooner rather than later. You might consider adding a grease nipple if possible when servicing your sea cocks. I truly hope you don't break off said tight sea cocks in the mean time. Have some wooden plugs and a mallet close at hand.
__________________
RTF
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05-02-2017, 01:47 PM
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#8
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Guru
City: Gig Harbor
Vessel Name: Kinship
Vessel Model: North Pacific 43
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 9,046
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This is one reason why I TRY to remember to go through the boat and exercise all the seacocks about monthly. I don't get to it as often as I should.
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05-02-2017, 02:26 PM
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#9
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Guru
City: Adelaide
Vessel Name: Kokanee
Vessel Model: Cuddles 30 Pilot House Motor Sailer
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 3,218
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There's a reason some call it a breaker bar.
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05-02-2017, 02:34 PM
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#10
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Guru
City: gulf coast
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 3,440
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The handles suppied on sea cocks are often just stamped out of sheet 1/8" SS. The result is there is little surface area in contact with the flats on the valve shaft. Excessive leverage will cause the hard SS to round off the softer bronze shaft. Adding a second handle before you add a cheater bar will reduce the chances of rounding off the shaft flats.
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05-02-2017, 02:53 PM
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#11
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Guru
City: Cary, NC
Vessel Name: Skinny Dippin'
Vessel Model: Navigator 4200 Classic
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 5,841
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Just remember... LONG STEADY PRESSURE! Don't try to yank it or push/pull with all your might. Just a nice steady amount of pressure. Don't force it or you will tare-sumptin'-up.
__________________
2000 Navigator 4200 Classic
(NOT a trawler)
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05-02-2017, 04:04 PM
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#12
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Guru
City: Philadelphia, PA
Vessel Name: Revel
Vessel Model: 1984 Fu Hwa 39
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 1,024
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Never use force, just a larger hammer.
The Marelon seacock folks are quick to tell you that you void your warranty if you use any sort of cheater.
I keep a variety of cheaters around the shop. Amazing how effective a piece of 2" PVC pipe can be.
I recall helping my dad adjust the torsion bars on the family 1961 Desoto. He had the large box wrench on the nut and I was at the other end of a 10' piece of steel pipe, walking it around.
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05-02-2017, 06:07 PM
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#13
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Guru
City: Miami Florida
Vessel Name: Possum
Vessel Model: Ellis 28
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 5,299
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The Topshelf product that Bluefish recommend is very good. It allows you to slip it on through a slot in the side when the handle starts to get horizontal.
I made mine from a short piece of 7/8" stainless tubing. I flattened the end of the tube which made the opening wide enough to slip over the seacock handle.
__________________
Parks Masterson
Retired from Hopkins-Carter Marine Supply
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05-02-2017, 06:15 PM
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#14
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Guru
City: North Vancouver
Vessel Name: Phoenix Hunter
Vessel Model: Kadey Krogen 42 (1985)
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 2,871
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The tech at Groco told me they should be lubed with Molycote by 3M. He said that no other lubricant should be used.
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05-02-2017, 07:42 PM
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#15
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Guru
City: Chicago/Montrose Harbor
Vessel Name: Sea Jay
Vessel Model: Non Trawler ;-) Ask me if it matters LOL
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 512
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JDCAVE
The tech at Groco told me they should be lubed with Molycote by 3M. He said that no other lubricant should be used.
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Grocos website says ULube. Any difference or "better than" comments? I actually realized it's a task I need to do as well
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05-02-2017, 08:00 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
City: Orange Beach, AL
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 150
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One thing I have learned from this forum: Exercise your seacocks. I tried to tell my wife that and she took it the wrong way.
Only have 2 that were sticky. Used PBlaster and patience now they are free.
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05-02-2017, 08:06 PM
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#17
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Guru
City: Cape May, NJ
Vessel Name: Irish Lady
Vessel Model: Monk 36
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 4,947
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The need for a cheater bar is screaming a message to you. Service the seacock on the hard. Otherwise you better have an excellent damage control kit and good bilge pumps for when you snap off the mushroom head.
__________________
Archie
Irish Lady
1984 Monk 36 Hull #46
Currently in Cape May, NJ
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05-02-2017, 08:22 PM
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#18
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Guru
City: North Vancouver
Vessel Name: Phoenix Hunter
Vessel Model: Kadey Krogen 42 (1985)
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 2,871
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gmarr
Grocos website says ULube. Any difference or "better than" comments? I actually realized it's a task I need to do as well
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I remember the conversation well, and the guy was very specific. Actually, Molykote 111 is a Dow-Corning product. I'm not familiar with Ulube. Perhaps it's an equivalent product. He also sent me a zero fitting so I can do it while seacock is assembled and in the water, but I figure once a year is better than not at all. I remember chasing all over the Vancouver area last year trying to find it.
Jim
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05-03-2017, 05:54 AM
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#19
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Guru
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 22,553
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"On my next pull out I will replace both seacockes,"
Depends , if they are the classic tapered bronze they can easily be freed and reused.
If they are a step above SS and plastic seal home water pipe type , you might look for a grease fitting .
A 1/8 pipe plug you screw a Zerk fitting into then grease.
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05-03-2017, 05:55 AM
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#20
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Senior Member
City: Casco Bay
Join Date: Feb 2016
Posts: 308
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If these are "ball valves" and they don't want to turn be very careful using any pressure beyond just the factory supplied handle. I have seen shafts snap off and balls completely separate from the stem. If they are getting that tough to turn it is time to replace them. As has been mentioned all seacocks need to be cycled or exercised regularly..
If these are tapered cone style please avoid the use of breaker bars or cheater bars on bronze tapered cone seacocks (not entirely clear what type we are discussing but based on the vintage they could be tapered cone or ball valves).
Tapered cones come out by loosening the adjustment nuts and lightly tapping them, on the threaded end, with a lead or brass mallet, and a nut to protect the threads, towards the handle end. This is not beating on them just a couple of light taps and they "pop"....
You then lap fit (valve grinding compound) them and use Spartan Grease available from Spartan bronze. Tapered cone seacocks can literally outlast the boat with proper maintenance. The Taiwanese builders sometimes used Wilcox Crittenden tapered cones and then began making their own and finally switched to ball type seacocks... If you wreck a tapered cone seacock they no longer exists unless you go with Spartan Bronze.
If they are tapered cone this may help: Servicing Tapered Cone Seacocks
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