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Old 08-15-2014, 11:26 PM   #21
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A wooden spoon or a piece of PVC pipe works well. Then shop vac out the results. If there are still a lot of barnacle bases left stuck to the sides of the strain housing you can dissolve them off with acid.
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Old 08-16-2014, 11:12 AM   #22
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To remove reluctant hoses I use WD-40 and the little tool below - basically a screwdriver I bent for the purpose. The corners of the blade are slightly rounded to stop it digging in. Insert blade under edge of hose, squirt WD-40 next to blade, apply leverage, move round a bit, repeat.

Rogerh: I do understand why you want nice clean looking strainers. Apart from looking good, clean equipment is more likely to get inspected and serviced. I have found that a fine rotary wire brush mounted in a bench grinder cleans up the bronze/brass parts of Perko strainers pretty well.

If the acrylic cylinder has a build-up of calcium deposits on the inside, Ryd-Lyme will desolve coral, mussels and most other undesirable stuff in there. It is environmentally friendly, won't harm the strainer, and doesn't make your skin peel of in ugly sheets. (No connectiion with Ryd-Lyme, just a satisfied etc etc...)

Don't use muriatic acid - it will react chemically with the plastic and turn it opaque. There is no un-do button when this happens - don't ask me how I know!

I have no experience with white vinegar, but I believe it is dilute muriatic acid. Tread carefully if you decide to go this route.

Be careful using a scraper as it can/will score the plastic. The scraper may be soft, but calcium shells are harder than the plastic you are trying to clean.

I keep an old washing-up brush in the engine-room for cleaning muddy deposits from the inside of my strainers. The crank in the handle allows it to reach just about everywhere.
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Old 08-16-2014, 12:15 PM   #23
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You do realize muriatic acid and hydrochloric acid, which is what Ryd Lime is, are the same thing.

"Muriatic acid is the historic name for hydrochloric acid."

http://www.apexengineeringproducts.c...DS_US_0812.pdf

I've been using diluted muriatic acid to clean out strainers for decades. And I have not seen it turn the strainer opaque. The trick is to dilute it. Like Ryd Lime does. Nothing wrong with using products like Ryd Lime. You're just paying for a lot of extra water.
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Old 08-16-2014, 12:34 PM   #24
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Touché. Ya got me right where it hurts Cot Bill.socool:
Dead on with the wooden spoon/PVC with the Groco or Perco. When I have to play human pretzel I drop bromide tabs in the strainer, however I hope to remember to get a few inches of stranded copper for the long term.
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Old 08-16-2014, 12:55 PM   #25
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I would not hesitate to use undiluted muriatic on plastic strainers, after all muriatic acid comes in a thin plastic container with no issues.
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Old 08-16-2014, 01:09 PM   #26
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Greetings,
While we're on Chemistry 101, vinegar is dilute ACETIC acid (off the shelf it's about 5% acetic) NOT muriatic acid (HCl).
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Old 08-16-2014, 03:11 PM   #27
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Capt Bill: I did know that muriatic acid and hydrochloric acid are the same thing. It is sold in hardware stores here cleaning concrete. I guess the dilution governs whether it damages acrylic plastic or not. I guarantee that mixed 50/50 with water it does.

Mahal: there are many kinds of plastic. The stuff the containers are made of is evidently different from the stuff Perko uses. YMMV.

I've read RydLyme's specs and it is about 10% hydrochloric acid. The other 90% is additives and, presumably, water. I didn't know this, but will continue to use it for flushing my engine and a/c heat exchangers.

RTF: Thanks, I didn't know that either, or if I did I had forgotten. Damn, my learning curve is steep today!
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Old 08-25-2014, 01:26 AM   #28
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I cleaned mine up once. Perko 1.25" size No long lasting point. I had available a blast cabinet which very effectively removed all verdigris and brought back the nice bronze colour.
Sprayed it with clear acrylic paint. Looked good. Lasted about a year and then the verdegris slowly came back.

Heavy deposits? Whitish? Those are likely seawater weeps leaving salt deposits. Those should be dealt with by resealing the unit with new gaskets. Perko used to use cork which lasted only a few years before leaking again. I BELIEVE they now use rubber, hopefully nitrile or similar.

I modified mine to use fat O-rings. No more leaks but that darn verdegris still came back.
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Old 08-25-2014, 08:37 AM   #29
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No more leaks but that darn verdegris still came back.
Thats a good thing. The verdigris is what protects the metal.
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Old 08-25-2014, 11:29 AM   #30
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"Those should be dealt with by resealing the unit with new gaskets. Perko used to use cork which lasted only a few years before leaking again. I BELIEVE they now use rubber, hopefully nitrile or similar."

Perko's current production strainers use rubber gaskets but the older ones still require cork. I don't know why but Perko says you can't retro fit an old strainer with rubber gaskets. Both types of gaskets are still available.
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Old 08-25-2014, 12:40 PM   #31
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Quote:
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"Those should be dealt with by resealing the unit with new gaskets. Perko used to use cork which lasted only a few years before leaking again. I BELIEVE they now use rubber, hopefully nitrile or similar."

Perko's current production strainers use rubber gaskets but the older ones still require cork. I don't know why but Perko says you can't retro fit an old strainer with rubber gaskets. Both types of gaskets are still available.
It's a size difference as I recall.
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