Sea strainer repair

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Obx

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2015
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128
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Working on cleaning my sea strainer for AC unit. Couldn't get the small wing nut loose, it broke off now I can't get my handle to turn to shut the ball valve.
Anyone have any suggestions to get the handle to turn. I tried tapping the handle with a hammer. We bought the boat 3 months ago and I'm just getting around to clean the strainers.
 
In water or out of water?

What actually broke off, the wing nut itself (which you can replace) or the threaded bolt?

Spray liberally with a lubricant, wait 15 minutes and tap again.
 
In water and the jam wing nut opposite side of the handle

I think barnacles and salt water have a lot to do with it. But I'll take any suggestions so I don't have to pull this boat out of the water to fix.
 
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Does it look like this?
 

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Greetings,
Mr. Obx. Sorry to hear of your tribulations. Whenever I have a stubborn fitting IF, and it's a REALLY big IF, it is safe to do so, I use heat to coax a release. I've found the investment in one of these (butane) to be worth the few $$...

th


Much finer flame thus easier to direct than a larger type torch such as:

th
 
A photo, good ones, or two may get some specific recommendations. There are several different styles and mfgr. which may change techniques.
 
Just to be clear, you now can not close the through hull? If that's the case you need to take a swim with a bung before doing anything.
 
You're going to have to be more clear on what you did and what is broken to get any useful suggestions here.


I am not a fan of using an open flame to try to loosen something on a boat. There are many products on the market for this purpose and they are far safer. PB Blaster is one.
 

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Obx said:
Here is the configuration, not the same sea strainer but the configuration with the wing nut (that broke off, right side of pic) and the open/close handle on the left side.

http://www.trawlerforum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=66831&stc=1&d=1500308689
Click to expand...

That looks like an old Groco SV series seacock. I just removed 10 of them from my boat. The metal on them is great and they probably could have been salvaged but there were other issues that necessitated their removal and, as long as they were out, I decided to replace with new. Often when these have not been used for a while and the wing nut on the side compressed too much to stop leakage, the rubber core will be forced into the inlet and outlet, forming dimples that make it difficult to operate. Depending on how deep the dimples are, you can break the handle off trying to get it to operate. The link illustrates how to maintain them. Basically, you have to remove the plug and sand off the dimples. Personally, I wouldn't attempt a repair with the boat in the water.

https://www.groco.net/media/file/file/s/v/sv-series.pdf
 
Greetings,
Mr. WK. Open flame on a boat is not a big deal IF and I qualify yet again, IF it is safe to do so. We have a propane range on board as do many others. Granted, it is not in the ER but open flame none the less.

Regarding the "wing nut" on the sea cock and I would call the device pictured in post #10 a "T" handle, I would NOT suggest ANY sort of torch use at all. I'm afraid the most suitable to free up that would be as Mr. WK suggested-PB blaster or similar.
 
Seems to me the first priority it to figure out how to close that seacock. Hitting an old, frozen seacock with a hammer while in the water is not the approach I would take.

I would probably get someone knowledgeable to look at it or haul the boat before trying to mess with it more.
 
Looks slick. Of course in my experience, hoses never come off that easily (notice only one hose clamp), threaded fittings never are loosened that easily.
 
That wing nut was meant to put pressure on the rubber plug inside to effect a seal when opened or closed. Broken wing nut means rubber plug is jammed open now.
To release it will mean pulling boat.
Talk to Groco and find out if that part is available still.
If so may be worth ordering.
If not then you will have to replace seacock.
Either way to effect a repair is going to entail pulling boat to work on repair or replacement.
IMO.
 
"rubber core will be forced into the inlet and outlet, forming dimples that make it difficult to operate."

Bronze tapered plug sea cocks can be operated just by the handle.

The rubber plug style requires one to first loosen the pressure on the rubber with the wing nut , then rotating the handle, then tightening the nut in the new position.

These are superb for items that do not get opened or closed very often , they will operate after a decade of non use.

The tapered ones are great at frequent operation , all that is usually required is an annual R&R the side plug for a Zerk and shot of grease in the Zerk.
 
From the Groco PDF I posted in #11 above:

Years of maintenance-free service can be expected. If the valve becomes difficult to turn, at haul-out remove and inspect the valve plug. The rubber should be free of bumps that might be created due to extended periods of non-use. (the pressure exerted by the tightened wingnut forces rubber into the drain plug hole and into the inlet and outlet ports, and older plugs do not quickly return to their original shape). Bumps may be removed with light sanding. Replace plugs with excessive bumps.​
 
RT Firefly said:
Greetings,
Mr. WK. Open flame on a boat is not a big deal IF and I qualify yet again, IF it is safe to do so. We have a propane range on board as do many others. Granted, it is not in the ER but open flame none the less. .
Click to expand...

Yes, I should have been more specific. I cook with propane but it's in a more controlled fashion and in a safer place. And of course, a propane torch in the engine room of a gasoline powered boat would be a real danger.


To me, the ultimate spray can solution is a product from the auto parts store that contains not only a penetrating oil but a coolant that freezes and contracts the parts. The contraction by freezing breaks the bond and allows the oil to penetrate better. The trick is, you use a lot of it to cool the parts. Not just one spray but perhaps twenty seconds of spraying.


I used this to get a frozen shower arm off in my home after trying everything else but a flame (it was buried in the wall and I didn't want to burn the house down).


It's called CRC Freeze-Off.
 
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The Groco is a nice unit BUT install it properly ,Bolt it in , not just screwed on the thru hill.

Sadly if closed for long periods, growth on the ball can not be cleaned off , and the ball removed as the tapered plug style seacock .

The combination of tapered plug seacock and basket strainer doesn't look as pretty , but may be far easier on the wallet over time.
 
I could argue to replace it. I could also argue to NOT hammer the valve handle.

However, you make be able to "patch" it to get by for awhile.
PB Blaster is good, but I like Kroil or better yet Aero Kroil. Great penetrant! If it can be loosened Kroil can do it. As for heat there's a lot of heat guns with no flame that can get it hot enough. Mine can make it too hot to touch from a foot in less than a minute.

Apply, let sit, apply heat, apply more, let sit.... etc.

Kroil has a 2 for 1 sale going on:

Google Deal

I've bought a few and giving one to some of my mechanics.

====
And, I'm not in favor of a combo unit.
 
I've thought to see if I can get a 90dg drill in there and drill the remaining threads out and see if the handle will turn. Just don't think I have enough room between the sea cock and longitudinal.
 
Pull the boat.

If something goes sideways and you can,t deal with it darn fast you could end up with a BEEG problem.

Those Groco seacocks were made of good materials suggesting that if the pressure handle broke it , the seacocks, may be at it's life end.

Drilling may not be a good idea for another reason, electrocution. If any seawater starts spraying the drill may short and quit, even a battery unit, and if 120v you could get zapped.

Maybe I,m being alarmist but too often we don,t look far enough at downstream consequences.
Be safe and for the boat too. It,s not an emergency.
 
Greetings,
Mr OBX. I'm a bit confused (nothing new) about what exactly is broken off. Is it a wing nut on the top of your sea strainer or the "T" handle on the side of your sea cock? If the sea cock, I agree. Pull the boat or leave it as it is (the latter is NOT recommended).
 
My take. Bite the bullet. Haul the boat. Install a proper through hull and seacock. End of story.
 
I`d haul out before getting aggressive with a seacock, but I wonder if there is enough metal left where the break occurred to use vicegrips?
 
Obx said:
It appears mine is 1 unit, The new one shown in your link that would require me to pull the boat out of water to replace right?
Click to expand...

This is a big job. I wouldn't try it in the water, others may disagree. If your other seacocks are the same type, you might as well replace them as well.

This fellow has published some excellent instructions on installing thru-hulls and seacocks. Welcome To MarineHowTo.com Photo Gallery by Compass Marine How To at pbase.com

Groco took his idea about fiberglass backing blocks, improved them and is selling them ready made.

I like Groco products. They sell an imported seacock that is a very good value for the money. Their American made seacock is probably the best on the market. Their ball valve adapter is also an excellent way to go.
 
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