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11-11-2019, 07:29 PM
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#1
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Member
City: Annapolis
Vessel Name: Buena Ventura
Vessel Model: Ocean Yachts 46 Sunliner
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 23
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Replumb with PEX
My boat has reached a point in time when the grey colored water lines are falling apart. After doing research I find the only logical replacement to be PEX.
Has anyone else replumbed their boat using PEX?
Your experiences are important as I look at this project.
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11-11-2019, 07:32 PM
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#2
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Guru
City: Quebec
Vessel Name: Bleuvet
Vessel Model: Custom Built
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 4,374
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Me and Boo
My boat has reached a point in time when the grey colored water lines are falling apart. After doing research I find the only logical replacement to be PEX.
Has anyone else replumbed their boat using PEX?
Your experiences are important as I look at this project.
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I did that 2 years ago, I expect it to survive myself.
Used blue pipe for cold water, red for hot. Used manifolds to be able to isolate any line.
Very easy to do if you plan it properly.
L
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11-11-2019, 07:47 PM
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#3
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Guru
City: Bellingham WA
Vessel Name: Hatt Trick
Vessel Model: 45' Hatteras Convertible
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 1,971
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Like Lou, I replumbed with Pex about four years ago. Very happy with the result. You will need to decide what type of fittings you want to use. I chose the Uponor system that expands the tubing ends and fittings are then inserted. The 'memory' of the tubing contracts over the fitting creating a very strong connection. Crimps and 'Sharkbite' fittings are also popular. There is a lot of pex information online and many video clips showing how to do it.
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Ken on Hatt Trick
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11-11-2019, 07:47 PM
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#4
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Guru
City: Pender Harbour, BC
Vessel Name: Gwaii Haanas
Vessel Model: Custom Aluminum 52
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 3,791
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I just used the white stuff and Sharkbite connectors. No leaks!
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Don't believe everything that you think.
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11-11-2019, 08:09 PM
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#5
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Guru
City: Vermont
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 10,076
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I'm all in favor of PEX, and my last couple of boats were built with it right from the factory.
The only suggestion I would have is to check the temp rating of the tubing and fittings. Typical domestic hot water is only 120-130F, and maybe up to 140F. But if you have hot water heated by your engine while underway, it will reach engine temp of 180-190F which is much hotter than typical. I have seen some of the quick connect fittings only rated to 150F, and know of people who have had failures with them.
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MVTanglewood.com
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11-11-2019, 08:32 PM
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#6
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Guru
City: Upstate,SC
Vessel Name: Shipoopi
Vessel Model: derilic sailboat
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 2,884
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I can't comment on fittings as they have changed in the past 15 years since I did a few PEX upgrades. My idea here is to use what you feel comfortable installing and repairing. PEX doesn't like tight bends so plan for some 90 degree fittings. Chafe can be a problem so support is well. Don't make long runs over about four feet with straight tight runs. Give them gentle curves along the pipe length. This allows for expansion and contractions and prevents connections from being strained or pulled apart. If you have to go straight, put in an expansion/contraction loop.
Also consider curve braces. I forgot what these are called right off.
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This is my signature line. There are many like it but this one is mine.
What a pain in the transom.
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11-11-2019, 08:53 PM
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#7
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Guru
City: Gulf Islands, BC Canada
Vessel Name: Sea Sanctuary
Vessel Model: Bayliner 4588
Join Date: Jul 2019
Posts: 4,993
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twistedtree
I'm all in favor of PEX, and my last couple of boats were built with it right from the factory.
The only suggestion I would have is to check the temp rating of the tubing and fittings. Typical domestic hot water is only 120-130F, and maybe up to 140F. But if you have hot water heated by your engine while underway, it will reach engine temp of 180-190F which is much hotter than typical. I have seen some of the quick connect fittings only rated to 150F, and know of people who have had failures with them.
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Rated up to 200F, however also with a max pressure of 80 psi
pex.pdf
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11-11-2019, 09:02 PM
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#8
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Guru
City: Miami Florida
Vessel Name: Possum
Vessel Model: Ellis 28
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 5,299
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I’m a big fan of Sea Tech fittings. They are very easy to use. You just cut the tube to length and shove it into the fitting. No special tool needed and they are easy to disassemble also. The fittings are reusable if you need to make changes.
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Parks Masterson
Retired from Hopkins-Carter Marine Supply
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11-11-2019, 09:18 PM
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#9
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Guru
City: Groton, CT
Vessel Name: Datenight
Vessel Model: North Pacific 45
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken E.
Like Lou, I replumbed with Pex about four years ago. Very happy with the result. You will need to decide what type of fittings you want to use. I chose the Uponor system that expands the tubing ends and fittings are then inserted. The 'memory' of the tubing contracts over the fitting creating a very strong connection. Crimps and 'Sharkbite' fittings are also popular. There is a lot of pex information online and many video clips showing how to do it.
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While not a boat I just did an entire house and in floor heating system with the Uponor method. One advantage is the the fittings are slightly larger for better flow. In actual use it probably does not matter although, the plastic expansion rings will never rust or corrode.
Rob
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North Pacific 45
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11-11-2019, 09:21 PM
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#10
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Guru
City: Signal Mtn., TN
Vessel Name: Stella Maris
Vessel Model: Defever 44
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 2,741
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twistedtree
I'm all in favor of PEX, and my last couple of boats were built with it right from the factory.
The only suggestion I would have is to check the temp rating of the tubing and fittings. Typical domestic hot water is only 120-130F, and maybe up to 140F. But if you have hot water heated by your engine while underway, it will reach engine temp of 180-190F which is much hotter than typical. I have seen some of the quick connect fittings only rated to 150F, and know of people who have had failures with them.
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Good advice. I’m considering PEX as well and hoping the mixing valve on our Isotemp hot water heater will help here. I’m using engine hose from the engine to the hot water tank and PEX to distribute the hot/cold mixed water throughout the boat, so the system (other than the tank) should never see 180 degrees.
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11-11-2019, 09:24 PM
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#11
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Moderator Emeritus
City: Au Gres, MI
Vessel Name: Black Dog
Vessel Model: Formula 41PC
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 21,129
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I replumbed a previous boat with Sea Tek system. It was great, easy to use if you make square cuts. I also used some benders for turns instead of 90s. Used blue for cold and red for hot. One key issue is it comes in a box rolled up. It doesn’t like to straighten out so sticking it into a cabinet and getting it out the other side can be challenging. I found out you can order it in 10’ straight sticks so the rolled up trying to get it straightened out isn’t an issue.
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Boat Nut:
If you are one there is no explanation necessary.
If you aren’t one, there is no explanation possible.
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11-11-2019, 11:12 PM
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#12
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Guru
City: Gulf coast
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 2,268
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Never did a boat, but did a house. Great stuff. Sharkbites push-one wouldn't be my move, except an impossible to reach place. They are far more expensive that clamps and normal fittings. The crimper practically pays for itself.
I started with copper crimp rings and finished with the pinch type clamps. I had to get a different crimper, but they were easierbto crimp in tight spaces and I liked them better.
Good advice about supporting it, being careful of really tight bends, and using the occasional bend support to keep it neat. Not sure expansion loops will be needed on looser boat-length runs.
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11-11-2019, 11:41 PM
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#13
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Guru
City: Anacortes
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 1,189
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Love it with shark bite style fittings. Replumbed my galley sink last winter as I made the sink twice the original size. All the previous pex plumbing had to move. Figured it would be a pain. Hit up my spare parts bin, couple cuts later and in less than 30 minutes everything was moved, no trip to the hardware store.
One winter my galley froze, one of the sink fittings popped out. After the thaw I just pushed it back in, good as new.
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11-11-2019, 11:44 PM
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#14
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Guru
City: Inside Passage Summer/Columbia River Winter
Vessel Name: Alaskan Sea-Duction
Vessel Model: 1988 M/Y Camargue YachtFisher
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 8,046
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I plumbed my water lines for a new washer/dryer. I used blue for cold, red for hot. I also used shark bite connectors. Yes they are a bit expensive, but well worth it. All at Lowes.
Oh and if they freeze, they don't break...
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11-12-2019, 02:03 AM
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#15
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Guru
City: Edgewater, MD
Vessel Name: Catalina Jack
Vessel Model: Defever 44
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 3,585
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So what make of push-on fitting will transition from 1/2-inch O.D. copper tubing?
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11-12-2019, 03:34 AM
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#16
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Member
City: Davidson
Join Date: Jan 2019
Posts: 10
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Shark bite makes a 1/2" to 1/2" fitting that can accept copper or pex tube. Other brands make a similar push fitting.
Alternatively, you can sweat a copper fitting onto the copper that is designed for a pex line with crimp.
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11-12-2019, 04:08 AM
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#17
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Veteran Member
City: Chesapeake
Vessel Name: Voyager 3
Vessel Model: Kadey Krogen Manatee
Join Date: Aug 2019
Posts: 59
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I just replaced my 30 year old copper flare fittings with PEX. It was a pain but is so much easier to winterize and perform work on it. They don't leak. Have to get the right tools.
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11-12-2019, 05:03 AM
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#18
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Guru
City: Seattle
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 3,305
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ghost
One winter my galley froze, one of the sink fittings popped out. After the thaw I just pushed it back in, good as new.
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Has anyone here every tried installing a small air valve so you could blow out the water lines when winterizing?
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11-12-2019, 05:23 AM
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#19
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Guru
City: Vermont
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 10,076
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If you have a mixing valve at your hot water tank, then the downstream piping won't get so hot, assuming the mixing valve works correctly...I think there is a really good argument that any boat with engine heated water should have a mixing valve as a safety device.
Just looking at spec sheets, I would use the SeaTech series 35 or 45, but not the series 10 or 25, just given the temp rating.
Whale quick connect fittings are rated only to 150F, and these are the ones I have see (indirectly) fail.
SharkBite brass fittings look good with a 200F rating.
Sharkbite ProLock fittings are rated to 180F which is cutting it close.
So whatever system you plan to use, just take a few minutes to check the temp/pressure ratings.
__________________
MVTanglewood.com
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11-12-2019, 05:29 AM
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#20
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Guru
City: Vermont
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 10,076
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Quote:
Originally Posted by makobuilders
Has anyone here every tried installing a small air valve so you could blow out the water lines when winterizing?
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Yes. I usually just make up a fitting that connects an air hose to a hose spigot, and pressurize with air via the spigot. I've done this on numerous boats and houses with 100% success, at least so far.
On our new boat build I'm bringing all the outside water lines to separate manifolds (hot and cold) so they can be centrally shut off without shutting down the interior water, and the manifolds have air hose fittings so they can be blown out. It's easy to do when building, but probably impractical on an existing boat.
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MVTanglewood.com
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