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Old 07-17-2013, 06:07 PM   #1
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Removal of Water tanks-MT 34

I am about to remove the port water tank..this is a new purchase..and restoration project here in Key West. The plywood floor is completely rotten to include the aft head area.

Anyone has a "secret" to the procedure to remove the water tanks..please let me know.

I intend to cut a hole in the top and remove the water..as the tank is on a 5% slant to the center because the plywood and support wood is totally rotten..hence the tank has essentially collapsed.

I obtained a great price on this 1984 MT Double Cabin..I intend to use it as a liveaboard at the Boca Chica Marina ..at the US Navy Base.

Any constructive comments is appreciated.

No doubt will be back for more questions as the project proceeds/Randall
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Old 07-17-2013, 07:37 PM   #2
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Greetings,
We did exactly what you are intending some years ago. Floor was toast as were the stairs to the aft entrance way.
We carefully disassembled the stairs (drilled out the teak plugs in the treads and risers and removed screws) saving the treads and risers for re-use. It was necessary to save as much as the side supports as possible to use for a template both for the stair treads and associated drawer supports.
Longitudinal under bed supports were removed and saved.
The innermost bunk supports (teak frames with sliding doors X2-port and starboard) were removed in one piece, again by removing screws.
At this point, water tanks were exposed and easily removable.
The flooring (even in the head) was removed and the inner hull was cleaned and painted with Devoe 2 part water based epoxy. The new flooring was 3/8" marine ply and was exactly the same thickness as the old material. We were able to easily slide new flooring under the head bulkhead thus replacing the head floor as well.
So, replacement was the exact order opposite of dis-assembly. ie: Remove stairs, remove small locker between stairs and bunk, remove bunk sides (inner) remove floor.
New flooring was pre coated on both sides with the Devoe epoxy after cutting to fit and before installation.
Just a suggestion, but it may be better in the long run to replace ALL the flooring unless your rot is REALLY confined to just one side (not likely, I suspect)
Oh, and welcome aboard...





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Old 07-17-2013, 07:51 PM   #3
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Welcome aboard! I hope you have many happy days on your new boat.

If you can keep your boat at BC NAS then you are most likely a veteran, and I thank you for your service. Been there many times, always as a guest of a friend who was a Navy F-16 pilot (yes a rare thing) and a member of the 45th Fleet Adversary Squadron.

What are the existing water tanks made of? Do you have a idea of what material your replacement tanks will be made from?

When you replace the damaged ply I would go with a marine plywood, not just exterior big box store stuff. That is my own personal bias and I have to point out that many successful repairs have been done with plain ext. ply. In my view five years after the job is done you’ll be glad you went the extra mile.

My choice for the same job on my DeFever was MarineDeck from some mill in Oregon (Plum Creek?) that is widely distributed throughout the country. I found it at a cabinet makers supply house near where I live. Lot’s of choices out there.

Pictures of the project as it goes along are always valued.

Mike
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Old 07-17-2013, 09:24 PM   #4
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Greetings,
Oops, I forgot to mention I used marine ply. Mr. S is absolutely correct. Shame to do all that work and use substandard materials for the sake of a few bucks.
My water tanks were SS, not leaking and I kept them .
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Old 07-17-2013, 10:55 PM   #5
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Water tank removal and sub-floor replacement

Your comments validated what my plan was to be..I still have to empty the tank which has slipped from the rotten wood supports..hence, drilling, the cutting a hole to suck the water out to minimize weight.

The subfloor under the shower was going to the real issue due to access. But, i shall do as recommended and use marine plywood and slide the new piece once the rotten wood is removed.

Thanks guys for the attention.

Randy
NAS Key West
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Old 07-18-2013, 03:47 PM   #6
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if you can still reach the fill tube, use a wet vac to remove the water. works for me when I winterize.
mike
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Old 07-18-2013, 07:34 PM   #7
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Thanks for all the suggestions...today I discovered the drain holes from the aft steering area/anchor locker were plugged.

The one inch in diameter hole into the rear compartment for the water line just 2 inches above the drain holes was the real culprit. As such, all the rain water and wash down water was simply going into this rear compartment..then flooding into the at cabin causing all the floor support plywood to rot, thereby causing the water tank to drop about 2 inches one one corner.

Lesson: Check the drains access (drains into the bilge along with aft shower) to minimize water buildup in the steering/rudder compartment at rear/anchor locker.

Out here/Randy
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Old 07-18-2013, 09:02 PM   #8
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Greetings,
Mr. jr. I see you've experienced an "Aha, oh poop!" moment of which I've had several...

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