Refrigerator

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My temporary solution was to remove the aft port side cushion in the V berth and set a small refrigerator I bought at Walmart on the plywood panel that the cushions sit on.
My problem is that I don’t want to remove the original refrigerator door as it is an integral part of the main saloon look. I guess what I’m going to have to do is just replace the refrigeration unit in the engine room. Should be about $2000, or stick with my original plan and just use the original fridge as an ice box and get by with my Walmart fridge in the V berth.
 
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I have a GB 42. I just removed the 33 yo Grunert cold plate system. I fixed that old Grunert system more times than I care to remember. I installed a Frigoboat, DC only, water-cooled marine refrigeration system. I utilized the existing ice boxes which are original to the boat; 1986.

I’ve only had the system up and running for a couple of weeks so I don’t have a strong opinion or even know if I made a good decision. However, the Frigoboat system seems to be running great! Time will tell...
 

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My temporary solution was to remove the aft port side cushion in the V berth and set a small refrigerator I bought at Walmart on the plywood panel that the cushions sit on.
My problem is that I don’t want to remove the original refrigerator door as it is an integral part of the main saloon look. I guess what I’m going to have to do is just replace the refrigeration unit in the engine room. Should be about $2000, or stick with my original plan and just use the original fridge as an ice box and get by with my Walmart fridge in the V berth.

Thanks for your reply (note, my boat is at the Florida YC . . . I noticed you were in Fleming Island). I'm thinking I'm either going to a DC system (have seen several that appear to be nice) or remove the boxes entirely and get a narrow regular 120 volt Bosch or GE refrigerator/freezer (they look nice). When I go over next week, I'll measure and see what to do. We NEVER use the freezer because you have to stand on your head to get anything out and the lid is too heavy any way.
 
Thanks for your reply (note, my boat is at the Florida YC . . . I noticed you were in Fleming Island). I'm thinking I'm either going to a DC system (have seen several that appear to be nice) or remove the boxes entirely and get a narrow regular 120 volt Bosch or GE refrigerator/freezer (they look nice). When I go over next week, I'll measure and see what to do. We NEVER use the freezer because you have to stand on your head to get anything out and the lid is too heavy any way. …..since I'm new at this and am not sure the other reply went anywhere...I'm putting it here, too. :)
 
"For longer trips I can put dry ice in the cabin fridge."


That works on frozen food , but any fresh food must be stored elsewhere as vegis and fruit are not the same after freezing.
 
Thanks for the info. I may look into a DC system but I would prefer an AC system. I may just throw another small fridge up on the upper helm station deck for the time being.
 
BruceK, right heat produces cold, those are absorption type refrigerators using heat to re-generate the cooling medium in stead of a compressor. I don’t know why there aren’t 12 vdc absorption type refrigeration units for marine use. Rv’s have them but they are switching to 115 vac units. Absorption type units have tremendous cooling capacity in very small size units. The old kerosene refrigerators where used before electrification in rural areas, lots of farms had them. Light the flame for one hour in the morning and you had cold till the next morning.
 
I put in an apartment size 11cufoot fridge with freezer door on top. It is frost free, works very well. Runs on AC power of course. It also makes ice cubes. I got this from Home Depot for $400.

ITs been in the boat since 2016.
It runs on inverter, gen, shorepower, all are AC 120v.

Power boat means plenty of power and space is available for a decent size fridge.
 

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"I don’t know why there aren’t 12 vdc absorption type refrigeration units for marine use. Rv’s have them but they are switching to 115 vac units."

We can argue about what is "efficient" to who, but the RV fridges use big BTU from the propane to make the system work
.Our large Dometic goes thry a 20lb bottle in about 18-20 days Google sez that is 21,600 BTU PER DAY!

21,600BTUis no big deal at a 120V power pole , esp since the heat needs delivery most of the day.

Figure out what a just under 1,000BTU per hour would cost in DC amperage.

Rough math,,,

10 W = 34.121416 BTU/hr or 330W per hour + over 100amps per day of 12v.

Our propane reefer is a delight when cruising as we have few electric loads at night , LED anchor light , radio , small cabin or reading light.

Dead or discharged house batts are unheard of on board. Our 18-20 days per bottle includes the range.
 
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Living without refrigeration

We're all arguing over best/worst/efficent/voltage of refrigerators, but I'm now really appreciating just having one. We're leaving Qatar in a couple of days and for the last week have been living without a refrigerator, stove, beds, etc.

Anyway I have to admit that not having a refrigerator really sucks. Luckily we can go shopping daily, multiple times daily, to get what we need for a simple meal - something that usually cannot be done on a boat. But still it sucks. A cold drink is really appreciated now that it is 115 degrees outside.

Obviously it's possible to live without, but what fun is there in just living, and not enjoying?

(my little ramble)
 
I have a 12vt Nova Kool. Was dying on me, once filled with food. Had it checked over thinking it was time to replace. Nope, not time yet. Turns out it was shutting down on low voltage. The 3 4D house batteries, needed to be replaced. Sides swollen. Replaced the batteries and all is fine with the fridge.
It was undiscovered because I was at the dock and plugged into shore power. Went to the yard for about a week, the house batteries were flat. I opted not to pay the $10/day to be plugged in. The fridge was empty and the door, taped open.
 
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I have a 12vt Nova Kool. Was dying on me, once filled with food. Had it checked over thinking it was time to replace. Nope, not time yet. Turns out it was shutting down on low voltage. The 3 4D house batteries, needed to be replaced. Sides swollen. Replaced the batteries and all is fine with the fridge.
It was undiscovered because I was at the dock and plugged into shore power. Went to the yard for about a week, the house batteries were flat. I opted not to pay the $10/day to be plugged in. The fridge was empty and the door, taped open.

Old Dan.......... a couple of solar panels along with a frost free apartment fridge could put joy in your life or if that's not important, how about a cold drink in your hands.
 
Old Dan.......... a couple of solar panels along with a frost free apartment fridge could put joy in your life or if that's not important, how about a cold drink in your hands.

The batteries were so dead, the 2 solar panels could not keep up.
 
We can argue about what is "efficient" to who, but the RV fridges use big BTU from the propane to make the system work
.Our large Dometic goes thry a 20lb bottle in about 18-20 days Google sez that is 21,600 BTU PER DAY!

21,600BTUis no big deal at a 120V power pole , esp since the heat needs delivery most of the day.

Figure out what a just under 1,000BTU per hour would cost in DC amperage.

Rough math,,,

10 W = 34.121416 BTU/hr or 330W per hour + over 100amps per day of 12v.

For absorption fridges, efficiency using electricity as an energy source is poor. As you have pointed out, there is a lot of energy in propane and using it directly as a heat source on an absorption fridge is reasonably efficient and cost effective. Absorption fridges boil the coolant using heat, so the direct heat of a propane flame is perfect, it's not much more than a pilot light to generate enough heat.

A 12V heater in place of the flame is a large energy draw, a compressor fridge is more efficient using 12V power, as low as 15 amps (180W) per day for smaller fridges.

A compressor fridge is utterly useless with propane as fuel of course.
 
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I recently added this little portable fridge to my boat for the Bahamas trip that I can’t seem to get started.

Wife wanted more room to store the white wine, and this little sucker seems to work pretty damn well so far. It has a DC compressor (maybe a Danfoss Chinese knockoff) and the amp draw doesn’t seem bad. Cools down quickly and will freeze (sort of) if you want to use it that way. It was about $370. Bought it from Bezos because he needs the money.
 
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I've used several different marques and in my own experience of our usage the best by head and shoulders above the rest is the Vitrifrigo range. Have a look and see if they have what you need.
Not cheap but worth it in the long run.
 
The 3 way RV fridges used 12V on the road so the fridge would not need to be shut down while refueling in a gas station.

Solved the problem by using a setup that would cut the propane supply for 20 min after RV ignition was cut off.

If solar could make enough hydrogen in 6 hours to operate a reefer for 24 hours ,,,paradise.!!!

Might even be able to run the range ?
 
Hey speaking of fridges/freezers, what temperature do folks here with solar and an idea towards battery bank survival run their units? I have my Fridge set at 38 F and freezer at 15, but wondering if the freezer needs to be set that low.
 
Note: Have removed my refrigerator boxes and installed a 24" (narrow) LG fridge/freezer. Looks great...LOTS of work. LOL. Will need to have some finish work but wife will love it. Quote to replace compressor was 5400.00 bucks...they cost 42 or 4300.00. Boat is at FYC
 
One of my Frigoboat keel cooled danfoss-based fridge units has been giving me trouble here in the Bahamas. I finally got it working today using a hot rag to clear the capillary tubes. I told myself when this thing fails I’m getting something simple and air cooled, but still DC powered.

I bought this cheap thing for a backup/extra fridge for this trip and it has been great.

https://www.amazon.com/Costway-Portable-Refrigerator-Electric-Camping(-4°F/dp/B07CG4Q1YJ
 
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