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Old 06-03-2013, 07:12 PM   #1
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PAR Head

Need help. Bowl is full, water comes in but nothing goes out. Head 87 PAR. model 37010. Bill
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Old 06-04-2013, 10:06 PM   #2
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Plugged joker valve? Bad impellor on pump? Blocked black water line?
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Old 06-04-2013, 10:30 PM   #3
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It's going to be messy. Starting with the easiest to check.
Is the holding tank full?
Is the holding tank vent blocked?
Is the discharge hose blocked?
While you've got the hose disconnected, is the joker valve blocked?
If you haven't found the problem by now, remove the motor/pump assembly.
Check for blockages in the pump.
Check that the centrifigual impeller and chopper blade are attached to the shaft and are not free to spin.

You don't say which Jabsco electric toilet you have but here is a link to the parts list of the most common: http://www.xylemflowcontrol.com/file...43000-0612.pdf
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Old 06-05-2013, 09:55 PM   #4
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It must be plugged up, I have a couple of par electric heads & they drain to the holding tank unless being flushed. I thought I had a problem when I 1st bought the boat because the bowls didn't hold water, talked to a couple of other boaters & in their opinion there was no problem because they flushed properly & had no other problems. I had the same problem & shut off the seacock so it wouldn't pump any more water, then let it set overnight & tried flushing again & it worked fine. Good Luck
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Old 06-05-2013, 10:45 PM   #5
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He does say which toilet he has: a 1987 PAR (defunct Jabsco brand) 37010. If the lower unit is still original, it's amazing that the motor still runs, much less brings any water in OR out.

There are three likely possiblilities:

A blocked tank vent that's pressurized the tank to the point where the back pressure won't let the toilet flush is the most common reason why toilets runs but nothing goes down...that's always the first thing to check (whyizzit that never occurs to anyone else??).

Sea water mineral buildup in the head discharge line can reduce the diameter of a 1" hose to less than 1/4"...though that's more common in warm waters than colder waters of the PNW, so that's prob'ly not the problem here, but still worth checking.

This is a 26 year-old toilet. If it hasn't been been rebuilt or the lower unit replaced in at least 5 years, a worn out discharge impeller is a likely culprit.

It would not be unheard of for all three problems to exist at the same time.
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Old 06-09-2013, 07:56 AM   #6
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Peggie. Thanks for your comments. As we are still underway, but almost home my first task will be to rebuild both. I too am surprised that they, at least one works. Bill
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Old 06-10-2013, 06:47 AM   #7
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"but almost home my first task will be to rebuild both"

Check the price of a rebuild kit against the price of a new head.
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Old 06-10-2013, 05:31 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FF View Post
"but almost home my first task will be to rebuild both"

Check the price of a rebuild kit against the price of a new head.
New motor & pump assembly was $207.00 last year, that was thru the marina, maybe less at a online store.
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Old 06-10-2013, 05:50 PM   #9
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I know where you can buy a Jabsco 37041-0010 motor pump assembly for $189.95. Unfortunately the forum rules forbid me from telling you.

I can tell you that Defender sells it for $209.99.

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Old 06-10-2013, 09:45 PM   #10
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Welcome back Peggy. We know you have other commitments, but your knowledge and contributions are much appreciated.
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Old 06-11-2013, 12:48 AM   #11
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I know where you can buy a Jabsco 37041-0010 motor pump assembly for $189.95. Unfortunately the forum rules forbid me from telling you.

I can tell you that Defender sells it for $209.99.
I'am going to add 1 to my spares this year, that is the only thing I lack in pumps to replace all of them on the boat except a March pump for the A/C & I replaced it last year.
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Old 06-12-2013, 06:06 AM   #12
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Just a thought , boats at times suffer from electric problems ,NO Electric.

A manual head that requires no electric makes the situation less of a problem, YRMV
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Old 06-12-2013, 04:06 PM   #13
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Just a thought , boats at times suffer from electric problems ,NO Electric.

A manual head that requires no electric makes the situation less of a problem, YRMV
If a problem on the DC circuit disables my heads I've likely got bigger problems to be concerned about. With that said I've thought of converting the day head to a manual or a purosan.
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Old 06-13-2013, 06:21 AM   #14
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A look at a catalog will show some heads that have the electric motor added as an option.

Might be a good choice for some.

Boats were sailed sans electric for millenium , a diesel needs no electric to keep operating , no electric, not an emergency , just an operating condition.
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Old 06-20-2013, 08:20 PM   #15
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The story continues. Took out head and disassembled it. Found nothing wrong. Impeller and other grinding bits and pieces up to spec. However during process flushed out the head. Found that duck weed had almost filled the flush ring and after four days of soaking pressure water still material came out.
Reassembled and reinstalled only to find problem still existed. Out with the snake and you guessed it, it could not be pushed through. After wasting an hour or so and in utter frustration out came the blade and off with pipe. On land using Hugh's pressure still no flow. So I started to really bend and twist the pipe and more high pressure water. Finally water broke through. Lime,toilet paper,duck weed and the metal face of the flapper valve had formed the mass which caused the problem.
No doubt I wasted time and energy, but the disassemble with cleaning were necessary.
I have reinstalled and moved to solid schedule 40 and being unable to find the bits and pieces for 1 1/2 in settled for two. What the hell, it just reduces the friction. On the other hand given that the boat had little or no use for a number of year, buyers beware. I do not know what to do, but heads are a blessing and curse. Bill
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