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Old 08-12-2016, 02:51 PM   #21
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Where - without this forum - would I ever learn this level of detail about bolting heads to soles?

Anyway, good job with the install! Interesting that you went with a manual head, which just happens to be my preference, too. Everyone else seems to be going electric, or vacuum, or even composting.
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Old 08-12-2016, 03:52 PM   #22
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Where - without this forum - would I ever learn this level of detail about bolting heads to soles?

Anyway, good job with the install! Interesting that you went with a manual head, which just happens to be my preference, too. Everyone else seems to be going electric, or vacuum, or even composting.
Just cheap I guess. These heads are under $200 delivered, the others not so much. And yeah, I didn't figure such a thread could be at all interesting or controversial. Thanks!
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Old 08-12-2016, 05:30 PM   #23
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Dave, do you remember what the lags went into, just a mounting board or into other wood underneath? Usually lags are not used to just mount something on a thinish board.

The last time I replaced a head it was on my Catalina 400. I believe it was 3/4" plywood on which FRP was laid. There was no fiberglass on the underside of the plywood.
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Old 08-12-2016, 05:40 PM   #24
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Just cheap I guess. These heads are under $200 delivered, the others not so much. Thanks!

My current boat is the first that I have owned with an electric head. To be honest, I wasn't excited about it. A manual head just seems so simple and as you say it is really inexpensive to replace if needed and very easy to work on.

However, after having used it now for several months, I really do like it. The best thing is that it really simplifies instruction for folks on the boat. On my Techma there are only two buttons. So far no one has been confused.
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Old 08-12-2016, 05:52 PM   #25
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Here is the fwd head set up, same as the aft exactly. Must be a CHB job with such old heads. Corroded bronze bolts and nuts.
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Old 08-12-2016, 06:57 PM   #26
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Dave, do you remember what the lags went into, just a mounting board or into other wood underneath? Usually lags are not used to just mount something on a thinish board.
I've never seen a cabin sole--carpet, FG,wood or tile--that wasn't on a thick (most likely 3/4" plywood) sub-floor. If it weren't, it couldn't support the weight of even people walking on it...it would flex, buckle and crack.

However, it's YOUR boat...do whatever floats it for YOU!
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Old 08-12-2016, 08:06 PM   #27
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I've never seen a cabin sole--carpet, FG,wood or tile--that wasn't on a thick (most likely 3/4" plywood) sub-floor. If it weren't, it couldn't support the weight of even people walking on it...it would flex, buckle and crack.

However, it's YOUR boat...do whatever floats it for YOU!
I guess I don't understand your point here. What is it I am supposed to do or have done, that doesn't make sense? I am replacing two heads, using the same fastening system as it came apparently from the factory (CHB). I was merely asking Dave a question. Am I missing something else here?
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Old 08-12-2016, 08:58 PM   #28
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Hey, same low budget model we have.

Got a tip which I'm sure you don't need, but somebody might.

Ours started showing signs of being blocked (in flushing mode it would fill up much faster than emptying) then on a recent trip it plugged up tight. Nothing was going through.

Rather than launch into the disgusting job of pulling off hoses to clear the obstruction, I decided to have a look under the plywood base the toilet was sitting on...the PO had supported the base on the sides, but the back was resting on the outlet hose which had slowly been forced almost flat

Teased it back into a circular shape, put a hose clamp there to keep it round, and now it works perfectly.

Lesson learned...diagnose toilet problems in an increasing order of complexity and/or disgusting factor.
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Old 08-12-2016, 09:13 PM   #29
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Thanks for the tip, will watch for that.
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Old 08-13-2016, 02:13 AM   #30
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Hey, same low budget model we have.

Got a tip which I'm sure you don't need, but somebody might.

Ours started showing signs of being blocked (in flushing mode it would fill up much faster than emptying) then on a recent trip it plugged up tight. Nothing was going through.

Rather than launch into the disgusting job of pulling off hoses to clear the obstruction, I decided to have a look under the plywood base the toilet was sitting on...the PO had supported the base on the sides, but the back was resting on the outlet hose which had slowly been forced almost flat

Teased it back into a circular shape, put a hose clamp there to keep it round, and now it works perfectly.

Lesson learned...diagnose toilet problems in an increasing order of complexity and/or disgusting factor.
Did you also glue in a packer like a short length of say, inch through timber, under that back edge to take the main weight as well, Murray..? Or was there not enough room. I doubt a hose clamp will last long before squashing down.

Also FWIW, in my '75 CHB, the toilet mounts with 3 things that look like large self-tapping threaded screws, about 5mm thick near the head, and with a bolt type head. Are they what you are calling lag bolts Peggie..? They went into a base of about 3/4 inch timber, into which I have made cut-outs so I can reach things. So I have 3 removable 1/4 inch ply extra sections covering the whole base, 2 of which I can remove, one either side of the loo, even after it is bolted down, for access through the cut out sections to my thru-hull, taps and diverter valve.
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Old 08-13-2016, 05:30 AM   #31
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Did you also glue in a packer like a short length of say, inch through timber, under that back edge to take the main weight as well, Murray..?
Yup. Sumo worthy now.
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Old 08-14-2016, 11:28 PM   #32
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Did you also glue in a packer like a short length of say, inch through timber, under that back edge to take the main weight as well, Murray..? Or was there not enough room. I doubt a hose clamp will last long before squashing down.

Also FWIW, in my '75 CHB, the toilet mounts with 3 things that look like large self-tapping threaded screws, about 5mm thick near the head, and with a bolt type head. Are they what you are calling lag bolts Peggie..? They went into a base of about 3/4 inch timber, into which I have made cut-outs so I can reach things. So I have 3 removable 1/4 inch ply extra sections covering the whole base, 2 of which I can remove, one either side of the loo, even after it is bolted down, for access through the cut out sections to my thru-hull, taps and diverter valve.
Peggie seems to have taken a powder, but yes by your description those are what we call lag screws or bolts. They are just an oversized screw with a bolt head as you say. They are a good fastener for some applications and apparently are common in head installations. My boat uses bolts and in fact the instruction sheet that comes with the new heads also recommends using bolts. Second one arrives tomorrow and we'll hopefully be all good to "go"?
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