Marine air Question

[hmason]

Had the reverse cycle heat on last night. 3 units running. This morning one unit had tripped its breaker and shutdown. Turned it back on and it tripped the breaker again. I let it sit for an hour and tried again. This time it displayed an error code that is defined as "high current." It attempted to restart and then ran just fine.

Does anyone know the meaning of "high current?" Should I be concerned or keep running it?

Thanks all.

 

[menzies]

Did it actually report "High current" or a code that you believe reflects high current?

Similar to Hi PS?

 

[hmason]

No, high pressure is different. The actual code was H-C. Checked the manual and it is defined as high current.

 

[hmason]

BTW, the incoming voltage measures 120V

 

[RT Firefly]

Greetings,
Mr. hm. Are you anchored in a river with a large tidal flow?

 

[hmason]

RT, I never thought of that!

 

[Deckape]

If the unit was running and the pressure was building as water flow decreased, amps (current) will increase as the compressor works harder and gets hotter . I would check for a restricted water flow as well as a loose connection or wire. Clear fault, and check water flow after cleaning. If the boat was dry docked ,and now in the water ,might have air lock at that units water supply.

 

[RT Firefly]

Greetings,
Mr. hm. THAT'S why I get the BIG bucks...

 

[hmason]

Boat is at our YC slip. Water flow is fine, strainers are clean. All units run off the same raw water pump and the others run fine as well.

 

[hmason]

RT, you are worth every $$.

 

[Capt.Bill11]

Have you contacted Marine Air/Dometic?

 

[hmason]

No. It's running fine now. I guess I should though.

 

[fryedaze]

Maybe the reversing valve is hung up. I have had that happen and the breaker trips. To free it up I jumpered power to the solenoid and cycled it a bunch with the unit off. I have had this happen twice in the last four years. The method freed it up each time. My units are 1988 models.

 

[Deckape]

A reversing value will hang up if not cycled . Some unit cycle the valve for cooling ,others only on heat. Good idea to cycle the system every couple of months or so.. With three units on one pump ,I would take a amp reading of each unit, and see if that one is working harder . Water will flow to the least resistance so maybe that unit has less water because of the distance of the run. I installed a pump for our two forward units and one pump for the aft cabin. Had a water flow problem with one pump for all three units. No problems since. Just because water is going overboard don't mean the units are getting the water flow they need . If you have a temp gun you might see a higher discharge temp.

 

[hmason]

Thanks all. The reversing valve must have been the issue as I have now run the unit in both cooling and heat mode with no further issues. I will exercise the valve every now and again in the future.

I'm also now considering adding another raw water pump for the furthermost unit as it does have significantly less water flow. (This was not the troublesome unit.)

 

[Nomad Willy]

"Marine air" ....
Sounds like a weather question to me.

 

[rwidman]

Maybe the reversing valve is hung up. I have had that happen and the breaker trips. To free it up I jumpered power to the solenoid and cycled it a bunch with the unit off. I have had this happen twice in the last four years. The method freed it up each time. My units are 1988 models.

A stuck reversing valve can usually be freed up by tapping on it with a tool handle or hammer. "Tapping" is the key word here, not pounding.

 

[hmason]

I haven't had the opportunity to look at the unit yet as it is working again. However, for the uninitiated, could you describe what the reversing valve looks like? Thanks

 

[fryedaze]

A stuck reversing valve can usually be freed up by tapping on it with a tool handle or hammer. "Tapping" is the key word here, not pounding.

Agree, but that didn't work for me so I went the next step.

 

[Capt.Bill11]

I haven't had the opportunity to look at the unit yet as it is working again. However, for the uninitiated, could you describe what the reversing valve looks like? Thanks

See the valve in the center of the coils?

 

[sdowney717]

If tapping then be real careful, since a dent will jam the valve.
I also have energised the valve manually, good test to hear the click.
Using a heat gun would also be worth trying to unstick if stuck.
This thing is a magnetic sliding valve. I almost never hear of this valve failing on a home heat pump. The new units do cycle the valve at cooling startup.

My question is, on the Cruisair 3 knob control.
If the system is running AC cooling, and you rotate the temp to hot, that will switch the valve over. Does the moving refrigerant having inertia flow with a sudden flow reversal cause stress to the system? Is that a problem?
Should you turn it off then switch to heat first?

 

[hmason]

See the valve in the center of the coils?

Thanks Capt. Bill. I think I can find that.

 

[Deckape]

The valve is a round tube with three copper lines out the top and one line out the bottom.the center line is the suction line the bottom line is the discharge side. When in cool,the center line carriers the freon to the evap coil thru the line left or right of it. The bottom line carriers the freon from the compressor thru the valve to the water cooled coil. When in heat, the lines switch and the hot gas goes to the air handler(heat) the suction gas goes to the water coil . The valve has a electric (120v/220v) coil that magnetically pushes/pulls the valve to one side or the other. If the valve stays in one location for to long it may get stuck. or go to a 1/2 way position, causing the unit to try to do both cooling/heat. Most home a/c heat pump have the valve work in the cooling mode as this works the valve on every cycle. If you have a stuck valve ,tap it lightly, or cycle it electrically. And yes, if you turn the knob from cool to heat the valve will switch. There is a dead band between cool and heat.(2-3 degrees) so the unit willn't short cycle.