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Old 03-31-2015, 09:30 PM   #21
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Looking at pricing I find about $165 for JUST the switch , WOW!
Well if you own your boat for 10 years that is less than $20.00 per year to have a switch that most likey never fail.
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Old 04-01-2015, 02:37 AM   #22
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You guys are killing me!
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Old 04-01-2015, 04:23 AM   #23
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You guys are killing me!
Had exactly same problems...installed Shurflo 2000 pump and their switch. Very well made. Pump weighs 50% more than the rule I took out. Switch much more substantial. Marine supply and oil in St. Augustine sells mostly
to shrimp fleets and that is what's on their shelves. Must be a reason. Great pricing as well....
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Old 04-01-2015, 10:03 AM   #24
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Hamilton Marine is the best place I have found for the Ultra Pumpswitches (non-alarm). I have bought them for as little as $99 on sale there, and price right now is $119.

It's just one of those things I feel that buying the best is the way to go. In addition to being extremely well built and wired, and easy to install, they don't short cycle, they deal with shower and sink sludge well, they have a lamp that indicates whether the system has electricity. So they take good care of the pump in a few ways while they are at it.

As for sump pumps, since we lived aboard full time, I just used, as did the PO, standard Rule 2000 bilge pumps. Sounds like overkill, and it is for most boat designs, but on our Hatteras, the 3 sumps were designed in such a way as to act as high water backups to 3 of the bilges. If not for that i would likely have used something in the 1000gph range, but dang those things drained in a jiffy. Strainers over the shower drains, and a regular dose of distilled vinegar kept things running smoothly with very heavy use.
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Old 04-01-2015, 11:04 AM   #25
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I have not had a problem with the Rule 360, 500, 1500 and 2000gph non-computer pumps. Their switches are complete POS's. The computer controlled automatic pumps are battery eaters and unreliable.

On my boat I use "Sure Bail" caged switches with mercury floats on a pivot. I can't really vouch for them as my bilges stay dry except if bad or stupid happens, and in those cases they were reliable.

The rule paddle switches flex the wires with each cycle, and if insulation hardens, it sticks. Or sometimes the pivot hinge sticks. Or the constantly submerged leads have insulation breakdown and now you have 12V live in the bilge water. None of these are good things.
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