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Old 05-26-2016, 03:09 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by rjtrane View Post
3. The VF has a 3/4" orifice at the toilet valve. The remainder of the circuit is 1-1/2". Thus, the clogging I've seen is ALWAYS at the valve in the toilet.
4. Using the screw driver, force the clog through the 3/4" orifice.
5. The vacuum should suck the waste to the tank
Worked like a charm !! My stuck master cabin head is working again. Trip-saving advice from rjtrane !!

Also, in my boat, there is a manual activation switch on the Vacu-Flush circuit (so it doesn't randomly start up at night when the vacuum pressure drifts down and wake us up). There is a 25 amp fuse protecting the circuit. On one occasion, after a plugged toilet (at the 3/4" orifice) the fuse blew. After manually clearing the orifice, there was no suction and no pump action when flipping the manual switch. I removed the cover on the vacuum container (below decks) to expose the wiring and put my voltmeter on the supply wires, only to find no power (zero voltage). I visually traced the wires back to the electrical closet and found a fuse. After replacing the fuse, the pump and vacuum were back on.

For fire safety, every circuit should be protected by a breaker or fuse, so if the vacuum pump will not run, check the 12V supply.
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Old 05-26-2016, 04:10 PM   #22
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One thing to do to prevent clogs in the first place is to instruct the guests to fill the bowl up with more water, via the pedal, before any non-liquid is flushed, and then doing a three count before releasing the valve by removing ones foot from the pedal briskly so it snaps back up hard. We have a pretty heavy TP user on our crew, likewise guests, and in 6 years living aboard never had a clog. Most of the issues I have seen people have with these very reliable heads stems from not running enough water through them.

Also, the pump shouldn't be coming on at night, or at any time other than right after flushes; there's likely an air leak somewhere.
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Old 05-26-2016, 06:16 PM   #23
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Most of the issues I have seen people have with these very reliable heads stems from not running enough water through them.

George is right about that and about adding plenty of water to the bowl ahead of solids, and also about letting the pedal go to snap back into place with enough force to ensure that the dome seats and seals completely.

However, while 3 seconds is long enough to keep the pedal down for urine, it should stay down for 7-10 when flushing solids to put enough water through the pump to rinse it out completely.
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Old 05-26-2016, 06:47 PM   #24
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I won't argue with that Peggy, more is better. I think we got awya with three or so due to filling the bowl liberally before flush. Total water likely works out the same....

BTW, the watre consumption specs for these are based on averages assuming you follow the directions!
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Old 05-27-2016, 10:18 AM   #25
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It's the water that goes through the pump AFTER the bowl contents that rinses it out. Just flushing half a bowl of clean water once a day, especially when guests are aboard, can go a long way in preventing clogs and pumps that run for no reason.
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Old 05-27-2016, 12:53 PM   #26
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Most of the issues I have seen people have with these very reliable heads stems from not running enough water through them.

George is right about that and about adding plenty of water to the bowl ahead of solids, and also about letting the pedal go to snap back into place with enough force to ensure that the dome seats and seals completely.

However, while 3 seconds is long enough to keep the pedal down for urine, it should stay down for 7-10 when flushing solids to put enough water through the pump to rinse it out completely.
Amen and I practice this practice. Water is your friend for poo and tp.....
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