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Old 09-14-2016, 09:42 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by HeadMistress View Post
Did you notice that the disintegrating mess is on the OUTside of the hoses? There are clamps on the hoses and I doubt they're only there for show... so the mess is most likely a DIY attempt to cover up a cracked and leaking female tank fitting. But I can't figure out why the hose clamps would be so high off the tank...at least 2". No tank mfr I've ever heard of installs tank fittings with a nipple longer than 12/-3/4"...most install 'em flush with the outside of the tank.
I can't imagine the prior owner used clamps that nice
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Old 09-14-2016, 09:46 AM   #22
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If you expand the picture you'll see that there is a fitting sticking up from the tank with female threads. A nylon pipe to hose barb is screwed into that. The hose is clamped to the hose barb.
It looks to me like someone has tried to use epoxy to fix a poly fitting attached to the tank. That's a wasted effort. What ever it is, it looks like that fitting has to go. Maybe replace it with those rubber grommet things that Peggie recommends? Peggie, what am I thinking of? I can't remember the name.
I've got the original photo here and I can't find female threads but I'm looking... I see male threads, I think. Where are you looking if I can ask? Thanks in advance.
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Old 09-14-2016, 09:52 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by Carolena View Post
FWIW, the tank is integral to the hull (the holding tank is part of the keel). This is a picture of the top of the tank, which is the floor in the ER, just in front of the engine. This is how our boat is set up. I've heard stories on the owners forum of cracks forming from a clogged vent when pumping out, but no personal experience. I imagine it will need to be reglassed, or glassed over and uniseal type fitting installed in new holes. That is unless the sender seal is leaking. It looks like someone may have tried to repair at some point, as the glass on our boat is finished much better than that around the fittings.
Thank you.. is there any chance you could post a picture of your connections so I could see what the factory norm was?
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Old 09-14-2016, 10:23 AM   #24
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support the hose somehow. I suspect that vibration or pump action causes the hose to move and lever that tank fitting.
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Old 09-14-2016, 10:45 AM   #25
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So at this point you've determined that it's not the tank itself or the fittings leaking but something else and the leak is ending up on the top of the tank?

Have you considered that it might be condensation?

It's pretty hard to diagnose these things over the Internet from a photo or two and it's pretty hard for you to provide all the information needed and for others to understand fully what you have posted. We got off track for a while because of this.

If it was my boat, I would probably take all the hoses and fittings apart and clean up the mess and go from there. You may need new fittings, you may not. This would be a good time to replace the hoses just because they don't last forever.

An easy way to see if the leak is coming from above is to suspend something above the tank and see if it gets wet.
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Old 09-14-2016, 02:43 PM   #26
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The tank is no where near full ever. The water isn't taking to wing. It must be arriving from above... either the pump out hose or the hose from the vacuflush units. I will prioritize this as vacuflush more likely, pump out less... as the water seems to build with no regard for my trips to the pump out.

Just a thought: If you have a macerator pump attached for overboard discharge, raw water can back fill the tank of the thru-hull valve is not closed or leaking, or if there's another valve in line and it's not working. The macerator pump itself won't hold back sea water too well...

-Chris
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Old 09-14-2016, 03:40 PM   #27
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support the hose somehow. I suspect that vibration or pump action causes the hose to move and lever that tank fitting.
Agree. Looks like fatigue of a glassed in metal nipple in the tank. Often times there is a flat ring welded circumferentially on to the nipple that gets glassed in.

Watch it while pumping out. My hose bucks pretty good when pumping out with a macerator in what we call slug flow in the engineering world. If you use a positive displacement diaphragm pump, it would also have discontinuous flow which could lead to fatigue failure.

One could strengthen it with gussets to the tank top. Be a pretty tedious glass or epoxy job though.
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