Holding Tank Level

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Capnal

Member
Joined
Dec 30, 2013
Messages
18
Location
Orange Beach, Al
Vessel Name
THXKIDS V
Vessel Make
Nordic Tug 42
I'm a new owner of a Comano 31 and new to this forum. I cannot for the life of me figure out how to determine the level in the holding tank of this boat. My simple solution, unless I'm overlooking a method already present, is to simply drill a small hole for a dip stick and then cork it but sure don't want to mess with tank integrity with something stupid/unworkable.
Input appreciated.
 
Greetings,
Welcome aboard. Hopefully information input and NOT what normally goes into the tank.
 
I'm a new owner of a Comano 31 and new to this forum. I cannot for the life of me figure out how to determine the level in the holding tank of this boat. My simple solution, unless I'm overlooking a method already present, is to simply drill a small hole for a dip stick and then cork it but sure don't want to mess with tank integrity with something stupid/unworkable.
Input appreciated.

Hi Capnal, I would not recommend a dip stick for the holding tank. There are many solutions to finding the level. I think SeahorseII has installed one he is happy with. Why don't you look under COMMUNITY in the dark red bar at top and click on MEMBER LIST. The click on S and scroll to SeahorseII. Click on his his name for his profile page, and then click on SEND PRIVATE MESSAGE.

You can also search the various marine supplier sites. They have senders and gauges.
 
Yes, "info" input, but I'm sure that from time to time on this forum, the "info" input could be confused with the other ;-)
 
I'm a new owner of a Comano 31 and new to this forum. I cannot for the life of me figure out how to determine the level in the holding tank of this boat. My simple solution, unless I'm overlooking a method already present, is to simply drill a small hole for a dip stick and then cork it but sure don't want to mess with tank integrity with something stupid/unworkable. Input appreciated.
Welcome aboard! :thumb: We would just take the floor up and get someone to rock the boat so we can get a rough estimate by watching the sloshing of liquid in the tank.
 
poo tank X dipstick = shitty mess...

There are many alternatives,

float based ( highest probable maintenance ) typically less cost

foil sensor applied to the exterior of tank ( can have issues with tank scum buildup ) mid cost point.

Transducer based, highest cost.. typically best performing.

The access to the tank for install of one of the above may decide the unit you use.

Good luck, nothing worse than a full holding tank at a inopportune time..
HOLLYWOOD
 
We used the gobius exterior tank monitor system on our steel tank.... Great system.... No fuss no muss!
 
In the meantime, while deciding upon a solution, flashlights are inexpensive and portable. If you have access, shine from behind or perpendicular to your viewpoint and translucent poly tanks glow. I put an LED behind mine, and it works so well I haven't yet gotten around to putting in a remote indicator yet.

Oh, and welcome!
 
Tank Tenders work extremely well; fairly simple to install; can be used for multiple tanks.

Ted
 
You can shine a light on the poly tank and see the liquid level. I installed a sensor that relies on pads glued to the outside of the tank. The system works fine on the potable water tank but not on the holding tank because of buildup on the inside tank walls. If I clean the inside of the tank, the sensor will work for a while, than show "full" when it's not>
 
I installed the Solo Panels for both the holding and fresh water tanks by Ferriello Sales. They are suitable for poly or fiberglass tanks, but won't work on metal tanks. Easy to install, accurate, affordable and reliable. These are the same models SeahorseII installed.

Here's another thread that discusses the system.

http://www.trawlerforum.com/forums/s31/ordered-our-new-head-3716.html

I installed a Snake River tank monitor on my 2002 Camano 31 it worked fine for the time I had them on about 3 years they were working when I sold her and as far as I know still are.
I installed the same system on my Monk 36 in 2009 it is still working fine.
Ferriello is a group or person who left Snake River company to market their own, similar device.
Both used the foil tape sensors mounted on translucent tanks the Camano 15 Gal the Monk 45 Gal
I would not recommend drilling into the tank for a dip tube.
Good luck
 
You can shine a light on the poly tank and see the liquid level. I installed a sensor that relies on pads glued to the outside of the tank. The system works fine on the potable water tank but not on the holding tank because of buildup on the inside tank walls. If I clean the inside of the tank, the sensor will work for a while, than show "full" when it's not>

Mine have been in for 2 1/2 years on 37 year old fiberglass tanks and still work fine. I doubt my holding tank 'buildup' is a problem as it's pretty much liquified by the macerator and emptied shortly after use.

There is a feature on mine that allows you to recalibrate the system extremes (full and/or empty) if needed over time. I've never needed this, but maybe that could help in your case.
 
Thanks to all for the input on my holding tank level question; I have ordered the Fiorello external foil system and will install as soon as sane weather returns. Will report back.
 
............. I doubt my holding tank 'buildup' is a problem as it's pretty much liquified by the macerator and emptied shortly after use. ..

If I clean the inside wall of my holding tank in the area of the sensors my gauge system (I don't remember the brand) works fine. After filling and emptying the tank a few times, it reads "full" until I clean the tank wall again. That tells me it's a buildup on the wall that's causing my problem.

We don't empty the tank shortly after use, we usually empty it when it's nearly full.

I don't often clean the tank because it's messy and involves pumping the cleaning water into the river which is technically illegal.

That's my experience on my boat. Perhaps the difference is, I have a manual head so there's no real maceration before the sewage gets to the tank.
 
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Here are a couple of pictures of your Camano at Ft McRea near Pensacola FL
She was "Balancing Act" then. My Camano "Spirt" had black Canvas and was rafted to her and can hardly be seen. That is a beautiful spot.
 

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Thanks, Steve; that is indeed a beautiful spot. Have anchored at east end of Big Lagoon many times. Used to be that one could take a pretty large vessel through the south cut into P'cola bay, but last time I was there, hurricanes had completely changed it. Haven't been there in years though as I'm just coming out of a 13 year boating hiatus due to late wife's physical condition (crutches not too boat-friendly).
Cheers!
 
I find I can sense when its time to head to the pump out. Just me and the wife I know we have so long, when the kids stop in all bets are off! ;-)

Oh yea, tip the pump out boat very well.
 
I know the OP has made a decision. Just for ideas for others.

It is almost worth replacing a holding tank with a poly tank. The light on top of the tank is 100% effective.

Other inexpensive (possibly) ideas.

(Yet to be made would be a clear non-permeable discharge hose.) With a little effort clear PVC pipe is available. Running the pipe up the side and lighting the opposite side would work. However venting would be required. Venting could be accomplished by cracking the deck fitting cap before taking a reading.

That old no longer used depth sounder could be put to use. (Odd shaped tanks may take some extra effort.) The idea is to place the transducer on the side of the tank with a couplant (a liquid that fills the void between the transducer and side wall of the tank. Water works well.) Start at a level low enough to be sure you have contents and look for a signal of the bottom (it will be the far side of the tank). That would be your reference signal. Repeat at higher levels until no reading is returned. That is above the content level. You can scan up the side the tank and find the level really fast. Works with any liquid in a tank.

I do this all the time in industrial applications using ultrasonic test equipment. It is rather pricey, hence the repurposing of old equipment suggestion. If anyone wants more info ask. Too much to try to post without knowing some specific application variables.

Anything inside the tank is asking for troubles.
 
If I clean the inside wall of my holding tank in the area of the sensors my gauge system (I don't remember the brand) works fine. After filling and emptying the tank a few times, it reads "full" until I clean the tank wall again. That tells me it's a buildup on the wall that's causing my problem.

We don't empty the tank shortly after use, we usually empty it when it's nearly full.

I don't often clean the tank because it's messy and involves pumping the cleaning water into the river which is technically illegal.

That's my experience on my boat. Perhaps the difference is, I have a manual head so there's no real maceration before the sewage gets to the tank.

Sounds like the higher density of the buildup is throwing off the density calibration for the sensor. Try recalibrating your system instead of cleaning. Maybe it'll improve its sensing.
 
Sounds like the higher density of the buildup is throwing off the density calibration for the sensor. Try recalibrating your system instead of cleaning. Maybe it'll improve its sensing.

I don't have the instructions handy but I don't think there's a way to calibrate it. There are three or four sensors and when the level gets to a sensor it lights a light when the button is pushed.

Having just written that, it seems possible that placing a spacer between the sensor and the tank wall might reduce sensitivity and still allow it to work. A project for a rainy day.
 
I don't have the instructions handy but I don't think there's a way to calibrate it. There are three or four sensors and when the level gets to a sensor it lights a light when the button is pushed.

Having just written that, it seems possible that placing a spacer between the sensor and the tank wall might reduce sensitivity and still allow it to work. A project for a rainy day.

I don't know...I'd think twice before changing the sensor-tank contact. Sounds like just the opposite of what you'd want to me. If you damage the sensor strip, you'll need to buy a new one.

Many manufacturers put instructions online in pdf format. I'd refer to the instructions and speak to the mfr before removing the sensor or modifying the system. Many of these systems are identical but with different company badging. Look for online instructions for recalibrating. It's a free resolution attempt without the potential of damaging the hardware.
 
That old no longer used depth sounder could be put to use. (Odd shaped tanks may take some extra effort.) The idea is to place the transducer on the side of the tank with a couplant (a liquid that fills the void between the transducer and side wall of the tank. Water works well.) Start at a level low enough to be sure you have contents and look for a signal of the bottom (it will be the far side of the tank). That would be your reference signal. Repeat at higher levels until no reading is returned. That is above the content level. You can scan up the side the tank and find the level really fast. Works with any liquid in a tank.

I do this all the time in industrial applications using ultrasonic test equipment. It is rather pricey, hence the repurposing of old equipment suggestion. If anyone wants more info ask. Too much to try to post without knowing some specific application variables.

Yo, SD... Ya think that would work on aluminum gasoline tanks?!?! :confused:

Our Tolly has 2 100 gal tanks; electric gauges on salon console... they read, but I don't trust em! Transducer "rays" transmitted into/through explosive gas vapor of tank's empty portion toward top would pose no problem, I guess... eah?? :confused:
 
Far too complicated!
Inspection port in the top, and an arm. You`ll establish the level fast. Very fast.
 
The dipstick was a joke, right? And the sight gauge with clear hose? Almost as bad. If you don't have a plastic tank you can shine a light through, you need to get one as pee will eat through stainless. Nothing more fun than a metal tank that leaks into the bilge, then you've got to get it out of the nicely finished cabin... If you have stainless poop tanks or tanks with a metal top pump out? Get rid of them before they fail or you will need a large bottle of Vicks to even get in the boat; strong enough to gag a cadaver dog! My friend's 55 has a leaker.......
 
Yo, SD... Ya think that would work on aluminum gasoline tanks?!?! :confused:

Our Tolly has 2 100 gal tanks; electric gauges on salon console... they read, but I don't trust em! Transducer "rays" transmitted into/through explosive gas vapor of tank's empty portion toward top would pose no problem, I guess... eah?? :confused:

Pretty sure sound waves are OK even in an explosive atmosphere....I think there are commercially produced fuel tank transducers.
 
I doubt you will get a reading with a grounded alum tank. Your best bet if you need high accuracy would be a flo scan type system, I had them once and they were amazingly accurate, today I just keep track of run time.
 
I'm a new owner of a Comano 31 and new to this forum. I cannot for the life of me figure out how to determine the level in the holding tank of this boat. My simple solution, unless I'm overlooking a method already present, is to simply drill a small hole for a dip stick and then cork it but sure don't want to mess with tank integrity with something stupid/unworkable.
Input appreciated.


An infrared temperature gun scanned over the side of the tank will detect a surface temperature change between the transition from liquid to air/gas inside the tank. Seems to work best in the morning after an overnight change in ambient temperature.
 
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Pretty sure sound waves are OK even in an explosive atmosphere....I think there are commercially produced fuel tank transducers.

Thanks, I'll look into that on the net!
 
I doubt you will get a reading with a grounded alum tank. Your best bet if you need high accuracy would be a flo scan type system, I had them once and they were amazingly accurate, today I just keep track of run time.

Thanks! Don't know about readings on grounded aluminum??

Picked up a Flo scan for twins last summer at estate sale. Helluva great price, never used. Still in orig box and wrapping; bout a year old. Haven't had time to install - yet! I currently run time calcs too, and I do occasionally look at boat's electric gauges... with tongue-in-cheek - lol. Unfortunately both tanks fill tubes twist from deck to tank (they should have done it straight - would've been easy at factory). I'd use straight stick if possible; even 3/8" dowel won't pass through to either tank.
 

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