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Old 09-06-2018, 10:10 AM   #41
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Ahhhhh.....a tee in the sink line! Now that does match something that I recognize.

Once I sleep off last nights graveyard shift I’ll start poking around and taking photos.
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Old 09-06-2018, 11:08 AM   #42
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As Peggie pointed out, the Quiet Flush is available in either raw or fresh water flush. The raw water (salt in most cases) requires an extra pump. The ones that use fresh water from your tanks are supplied by your existing pressure water system. No additional pump needed.

The reason these are called Quiet Flush is that the regular toilet, 37010, has an impeller Pump built in. The impeller Pump is quite noisy. The Quiet Flush toiletís allow you to use a quieter remotely mounted pump to supply the flush water.
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Old 09-11-2018, 06:55 AM   #43
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'The 37010 diagram shows the fresh water line coming off the pump to the back of the toilet, my fresh water comes from somewhere in the boat - I'm assuming direct from the tank because when we flush the 12v water pump that supplies the boat will turn on."

This is very dangerous as an anti siphon valve is required to keep waste from backing into the FW system.

Perhaps relying on the solenoid works to stop this , but as they say , "Stuff happens".

Anti-siphon valves are cheap insurance .
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Old 09-11-2018, 06:07 PM   #44
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This is very dangerous as an anti siphon valve is required to keep waste from backing into the FW system.

Perhaps relying on the solenoid works to stop this , but as they say , "Stuff happens".

Anti-siphon valves are cheap insurance .

I realize that, which is why I'm concerned. However, I really think that the fresh water is from a T in the sink lines. I haven't been able to look yet and investigate it more. Tomorrow I'll be crawling around in the hole trying to get things in order.
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Old 09-11-2018, 10:15 PM   #45
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I can’t see how waste water in that toilet (same as mine) can possibly back up into the potable water. As another poster stated, the water is introduced into the rim of the bowl, it is controlled by a solenoid and unless you filled it to overflowing (have you ever done this?) the waste cannot mix unless the bowl is overflowing, the water pressure is zero and the solenoid fails open. I think it’s unreasonable to spread such nonsense. Show me how that can happen and I will apologize but otherwise it’s claptrap.
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Old 09-11-2018, 10:37 PM   #46
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There must be thousands of marine toilets that are designed to use water from the potable water tanks. Iíve never heard of any of them contaminating the water tanks. The OPís toilet is designed to flush safely with tank water.

As Xsbank pointed out there are at least two barriers to black water contaminating the potable water. First there is the air gap in the bowl between the black water and the rim and then there is the solenoid valve.
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Old 09-12-2018, 05:20 AM   #47
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Over on Cruisers forum thiswas discussed and the discussion was'

Re: Jabsco Electric Toilet Conversion to Fresh Water
Our Lagoon 450S has Jabsco's quiet flush electric toilets. In order to minimize any odor issues, I have considered converting to fresh water flush.

"Avoiding contamination of your freshwater system is the primary concern. Jabsco has a conversion kit specifically for converting to pressurized fresh water -Model No.: 37055-Series. I'd check that out."
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Peggy had a unique setup to save FW ,

"If your head drain thru-hulls are below waterline, there's an easier solution that doesn't put your potable water supply at risk: Reroute the flush water inlet line to tee into the head sink drain line. The tee needs to be below waterline as close to the seacock as possible. This allows you to continue flushing with sea water--thus conserving your fresh water--except when in coastal waters that are too skanky to want to use, but provides a safe source of fresh water to rinse all the sea water out of the system before the boat will sit, or even daily if you want to: simply close the sink drain thru-hull, fill the sink with clean fresh water, flush the toilet. Because the seacock is closed, the toilet will pull the water out of the sink , rinsing out the entire system--inlet line, channel in the rim of the bowl, pump assembly and toilet discharge line. Total cost: the price of a tee fitting."

https://www.go2marine.com/product/94...iABEgKilPD_BwE
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Old 09-12-2018, 08:59 AM   #48
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I can’t see how waste water in that toilet (same as mine) can possibly back up into the potable water. As another poster stated, the water is introduced into the rim of the bowl, it is controlled by a solenoid and unless you filled it to overflowing (have you ever done this?) the waste cannot mix unless the bowl is overflowing, the water pressure is zero and the solenoid fails open. I think it’s unreasonable to spread such nonsense. Show me how that can happen and I will apologize but otherwise it’s claptrap.
Toilets that are designed to use onboard pressurized fresh water can safely be connected to the potable water supply because the necessary vacuum breakers and backflow preventers are built into the toilets. It's SEA WATER toilets that should never be connected to the freshwater plumbing...NOT because waste in the bowl can contaminate the potable water supply--you're right, it can't unless a blockage causes bowl contents to rise to the rim--but because BACTERIA in the bowl are active li'l buggers that multiply and CAN migrate into the channel in the rim of the bowl and into the fresh water plumbing from there. A long shot, but it can and has happened.

A bigger problem is when people try to have it both ways with a sea water toilet--to plumb a sea water toilet to use both sea water and fresh water by using only a y-valve in the flush water intake line to switch between them. That can allow sea water to mix with fresh and contaminate the fresh water supply, especially if the toilet is connected to fresh water ahead of the fresh water pump. There are a couple of toilets designed to be able to switch between fresh water and sea water, but they're toilets designed to use pressurized fresh water primarily and so need a remote intake pump AND have two separate inlet fittings on the bowl, and also a kit that isolates the two flush water sources.

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Old 09-13-2018, 06:05 AM   #49
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As a manual toilet fan safety is really simple.

When we get to weak to move the toilet handle its time to stay ashore.

The toilet is always hooked to sea water , but when leaving the boat for a few days or weeks the flush pedal is not used and the shower hand spray is used to fill the bowl for a final flush.

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Old 09-13-2018, 01:11 PM   #50
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BAM!! Found my solenoid switch. It Tís off from the cold water from the sink, goes through this switch, then down to the back of the toilet. They certainly took the long way around though. The line snakes through all kinds of spaces before exiting to the head.
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Old 09-13-2018, 03:12 PM   #51
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Any idea why there appear to be 2 water hose connections to the toilet? What's the black thing sitting on the gray thing...is it's supposed to be the solenoid valve? If so, it's not installed correctly...it's supposed to be on top of vented loop. (see photo) What IS the gray thing? And obviously something leaks or has leaked or there wouldn't be a plastic jar under that connection. Where do those hoses go? I've never seen anything quite like this...no wonder you've had so much trouble sorting it out!
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Old 09-13-2018, 03:51 PM   #52
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Any idea why there appear to be 2 water hose connections to the toilet? What's the black thing sitting on the gray thing...is it's supposed to be the solenoid valve? If so, it's not installed correctly...it's supposed to be on top of vented loop. (see photo) What IS the gray thing? And obviously something leaks or has leaked or there wouldn't be a plastic jar under that connection. Where do those hoses go? I've never seen anything quite like this...no wonder you've had so much trouble sorting it out!
The black thing on the gray thing is the solenoid switch I guess, the two wires I’m sure go to the flush button.

I have no idea what the gray things is. Your guess is as good as mine right now.

So as Best I can figure out the hot and cold come up to the sink (gray lines) They t off and go around to the shower faucet. The cold has an additional T that goes to the toilet (white line).

And I assume that t connection has dropped before which is why the cup is there. I did not put that there. I’ll have to caulk or redo that connection eventually.

I’m just glad I’ve figured out most of the plumbing in there. At least now I know what everything is and where it goes to.

ETA: could that gray thing be a pressure regulator?
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Old 09-13-2018, 04:13 PM   #53
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This is what the Jabsco solenoid valve / vacuum breaker looks like.
Not sure what youíve got there. Maybe an older model?
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Old 09-13-2018, 04:27 PM   #54
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I think youíve got it figured out. The water comes from the tee to the gray thing with the black solenoid and big black knob on top.

The solenoid opens the valve and allows the water to flow to the next gray thing which looks like it might be a pressure regulator to me as well.

Water then flows to the toilet through the white tube.

The tubes look small to me but maybe thatís all you need.

I bet the big black knob on top allows you to manually open the valve.
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Old 09-13-2018, 06:40 PM   #55
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The grey thing looks exactly like a lawn sprinkler anti siphon valve. Available at HD or Lowes.

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