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Old 01-22-2015, 08:56 PM   #41
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Jeff is the McGyver of boats and he has the best boat dog too!
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Old 01-22-2015, 11:02 PM   #42
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The thread has given me an idea. We run on the bridge 99% of the time. In the fall and early winter when temps drop to the 30s and 40s it would be nice to have heat on the bridge. My hot water heater is 180F with the engine running. Has any one put a secondary pump off the hot water heater domestic water side to supply a HX on the bridge?
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Old 01-22-2015, 11:05 PM   #43
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Greetings,
Mr. f. A definite possibility but this is probably easier and cheaper... Thunderbolt Heated Electric Socks cold feet foot warmers
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Old 01-23-2015, 12:58 AM   #44
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Old 01-23-2015, 06:26 AM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fryedaze View Post
The thread has given me an idea. We run on the bridge 99% of the time. In the fall and early winter when temps drop to the 30s and 40s it would be nice to have heat on the bridge. My hot water heater is 180F with the engine running. Has any one put a secondary pump off the hot water heater domestic water side to supply a HX on the bridge?
I have a heat exchanger with a secondary pump but don't run water to the bridge...but could.

You can also just plumb to your lower dash to a heater there and use vents to defrost the lower windows and run a duct to the bridge to a floor register up there
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Old 01-27-2015, 03:13 PM   #46
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Another set of photos from another 3208 from B.D. thread.
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Old 01-27-2015, 03:18 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fryedaze View Post
The thread has given me an idea. We run on the bridge 99% of the time. In the fall and early winter when temps drop to the 30s and 40s it would be nice to have heat on the bridge. My hot water heater is 180F with the engine running. Has any one put a secondary pump off the hot water heater domestic water side to supply a HX on the bridge?
I asked this question about two years ago and got some good answers that went flying so far over my head, I had to get those heated socks.

But keep me informed as to what you do, as I have this issue and since my hot water line runs to the head under the pilot house, why not??
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Old 05-17-2015, 08:38 AM   #48
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I just received the keel cooler from Fernstrum (nice unit btw) and my plan is to have the single Lugger coolant travel to the hot water heater (undecided on which brand) and to a box heater/defroster from Real. I am guessing that I would have a way to shut off/divert the box heater when I am in the warm climates and possibly also shut off/divert the water heater, although I don't know if that's necessary. I know that both the water heater and box heater must be mounted below the top of my expansion tank, and I am aware of needing anti scald overtemp protection on the water heater. I have read with much concern, that the water heater manufactures recommend using a non toxic antifreeze like Sierra when heated by engine coolant in case the heat exchanger within fails; they say poisonous antifreeze can get in to the domestic water supply. Is this something that anybody worries about? Also, am I asking too much from the Lugger's coolant circuit? Anybody recommend a water heater?
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Old 05-17-2015, 08:47 AM   #49
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Heating Hot Water From Engine

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Originally Posted by stevensibs View Post
I just received the keel cooler from Fernstrum (nice unit btw) and my plan is to have the single Lugger coolant travel to the hot water heater (undecided on which brand) and to a box heater/defroster from Real. I am guessing that I would have a way to shut off/divert the box heater when I am in the warm climates and possibly also shut off/divert the water heater, although I don't know if that's necessary. I know that both the water heater and box heater must be mounted below the top of my expansion tank, and I am aware of needing anti scald overtemp protection on the water heater. I have read with much concern, that the water heater manufactures recommend using a non toxic antifreeze like Sierra when heated by engine coolant in case the heat exchanger within fails; they say poisonous antifreeze can get in to the domestic water supply. Is this something that anybody worries about? Also, am I asking too much from the Lugger's coolant circuit? Anybody recommend a water heater?

We have a Lugger 1066T with a keel cooler. Our water heater comes off the coolant block expansion tank . No problems so far.
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Old 05-17-2015, 09:10 AM   #50
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Talk to the folks at Sure Marine in Seattle. They sell a lot of engine heating systems, plus all the valves and exchangers you'd need. Sure Marine Service, Inc. * Since 1972 * Webasto Marine Heating, Air Conditioning, and Galley Equipment
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Old 05-17-2015, 09:12 AM   #51
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Thanks Larry
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Old 05-17-2015, 10:09 AM   #52
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12 volt, 20,000 BTU bus heater on ebay is about $150. Booster pump is $90. all new.
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Old 05-17-2015, 12:45 PM   #53
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(I have read with much concern, that the water heater manufactures recommend using a non toxic antifreeze like Sierra when heated by engine coolant in case the heat exchanger within fails; they say poisonous antifreeze can get in to the domestic water supply. Is this something that anybody worries about?) Previous question, anybody got any concerns about this??
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Old 05-17-2015, 02:08 PM   #54
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Not me. Never ever heard of anyone getting antifreeze into there water heater. It is more likely that fresh water would get into the engine from a leak, pressures being what they are. If you're paranoid you're gonna worry about it anyway. But, if the current formulated antifreeze does happen to leak "into" your water heater you will know it. You can smell even a small amount. And, if you are inclined to drink hot water (who does ?) it tastes AWFULL, cats wont even drink it anymore.
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Old 05-18-2015, 06:21 AM   #55
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The anti-scald valve does not have to be in the shower control. There is a thermostatically controlled mix valve that can be installed on the hot water heater exit. All it does is mix in enough cold water to get the water temp down to safe levels.
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Old 05-18-2015, 08:18 AM   #56
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It is best AT the HW heater, as a sink at 180 or so is still a danger.

There is also usually more room to work near the HE heater than in the shower room.
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Old 05-18-2015, 10:51 AM   #57
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Many shower controls have anti-scald controls in the valve, since a secondary draw of cold water could cause scalding at the shower. If you put the scald prevention at the HW tank / heater, you don't need it everywhere. I think that's what you meant.

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Old 05-18-2015, 10:51 AM   #58
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Heating Hot Water From Engine

Here's how I connected my 3208 to the hot water heater. I tapped into the coolant line going from the oil cooler to the turbo. The coolant goes first to a valve assembly which has two shut off valves to isolate the link from the hot water heater if needed. Part of the coolant will always go across the bypass line and back to the turbo but with the shut off valves open, part of the coolant will continue on to the hot water heater passing through a zone valve and returning to the coolant line to the turbo. The zone valve is in the open position with no power to it allowing the coolant to pass. The zone valve is controlled by a Johnson controller switch which is connected to a temp sensor at the hot water heater. When the temp sensor reaches a set temp, the Johnson controller sends power to the zone valve and closes it so all the coolant bypasses the hot water heater and goes directly to the turbo. The Johnson controller and the zone valve are AC powered through the invertor. See attached photo. Click image for larger version

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Old 05-18-2015, 10:55 AM   #59
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I prefer normally aspirated engines myself, despite the market heading the other way.

I would be concerned that you're robbing the coolant from the turbo, which is turning in excess of 120,000 RPM under load. Make sure it gets clean oil or you'll be in the turbo market.
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Old 05-18-2015, 11:12 AM   #60
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No robbing is taking place, all coolant meant for the turbo is getting there one way or another, even slightly cooled by passing through the cooler water in the hot water heater.
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