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Old 07-15-2018, 03:39 PM   #1
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Fridge doesn’t work on DC

We have two Dometic CR110 refrigerator/freezers. Both tend to work fine on AC. One does not work on DCand the error code says “excessive fan current.”

I said they “tend” to work OK on AC because I very occasionally have gotten an error light on the same unit when running it on AC. I did not think to capture the code and now can’t replicate it.

Any cure for this short of calling the repairman?
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Old 07-15-2018, 08:14 PM   #2
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We have two Dometic CR110 refrigerator/freezers. Both tend to work fine on AC. One does not work on DCand the error code says “excessive fan current.”

I said they “tend” to work OK on AC because I very occasionally have gotten an error light on the same unit when running it on AC. I did not think to capture the code and now can’t replicate it.

Any cure for this short of calling the repairman?
A guess; restricted air flow? Dirty coils? Failing fan?
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Old 07-16-2018, 02:28 AM   #3
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A guess; restricted air flow? Dirty coils? Failing fan?
A common problem is the bearings running out of lube and causing the fan to draw more power to turn at speed or failing to turn at all. Sometimes the bearings can be oiled or greased and extend the fan life. Bearings are probably bushings, but if sealed roller bearings, they have an embossed number and can be found online.
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Old 07-16-2018, 05:41 AM   #4
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Thanks for the thoughts. I’m woefully ignorant about refrigeration, but wouldn’t the issues we’re talking about here apply consistently to both AC and DC operation? The problem we’re having appears 100% of the time on DC. There is a sporadic problem on AC—not sure it’s the same problem—and it only happens maybe <1% of the time.
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Old 07-16-2018, 05:52 AM   #5
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Thanks for the thoughts. I’m woefully ignorant about refrigeration, but wouldn’t the issues we’re talking about here apply consistently to both AC and DC operation? The problem we’re having appears 100% of the time on DC. There is a sporadic problem on AC—not sure it’s the same problem—and it only happens maybe <1% of the time.
Another guess: There may be an electronic "board" that does the voltage change-over. I looked at Grand Banks, the teak floor had a big gouge in it. I asked what happened. He said, he did that when when moving the fridge to replace the electronic (automatic) change-over board. 120vt to 12vt. Might want to look into that when the tech comes to visit.

I'd still consider all the previous mentioned possibilities while you have the refrigerator pulled out.

Per the AC, restricted water flow. Back flush from the strainer through to SW inlet. I do that every time I clean the SW strainer. I made up a gadget from a spare strainer top. Put a FW hose fitting on top. Back flush for a couple of minutes. Take the gadget off, replace it with the original top, works every time except for the time when the SW pump sucked a plastic bag through the SW inlet and it lodged in that hose between the hull inlet and and the SW strainer. I have a Little Giant seawater pump for 2 ACs.... Now that's a lot of sucking power.
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Old 07-16-2018, 07:28 AM   #6
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Thanks for the thoughts. I’m woefully ignorant about refrigeration, but wouldn’t the issues we’re talking about here apply consistently to both AC and DC operation? The problem we’re having appears 100% of the time on DC. There is a sporadic problem on AC—not sure it’s the same problem—and it only happens maybe <1% of the time.

The Danfoss control module monitors condenser fan current. The difference between AC/DC could be related to the supply conductors for the DC side, but it's likely that the condenser fan is running outside the parameters of the module's program (<0.7A). The condenser fans are inexpensive (< $20), you can find a replacement on Mouser or other electronics supplier if you can get some specifics on the OEM fan, e.g. amp draw, cfm, dimension. Choose a ball bearing fan rather than a sleeve bearing, it will last longer and draw less current.



The Secop modules are also available from sources other than OEM, there is a model # on the module, match the front part of the number, the last 3 is the series. Most any module will work in a pinch. If you always have 12/24VDC available, you can save a couple bucks by using a straight 12/24V module and abandon the 120v connection altogether. \


The modules are very sensitive to voltage. If your supply conductors are even close to being marginal, increase the size of the wire. They do not like low voltage, so mind the voltage drop scrupulously.



If you cruise beyond easy reach of parts, a spare module and condenser fan should be in your spare parts inventory. If you have multiple Danfoss-equipped refrigeration systems on board, you can likely find a single module that will suit as a replacement for any of the units, keeping in mind a 12/24 module can be swapped for a 12/24/120 with no consequence.
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Old 07-16-2018, 07:52 AM   #7
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The Danfoss control module monitors condenser fan current. The difference between AC/DC could be related to the supply conductors for the DC side, but it's likely that the condenser fan is running outside the parameters of the module's program (<0.7A). The condenser fans are inexpensive (< $20), you can find a replacement on Mouser or other electronics supplier if you can get some specifics on the OEM fan, e.g. amp draw, cfm, dimension. Choose a ball bearing fan rather than a sleeve bearing, it will last longer and draw less current.



The Secop modules are also available from sources other than OEM, there is a model # on the module, match the front part of the number, the last 3 is the series. Most any module will work in a pinch. If you always have 12/24VDC available, you can save a couple bucks by using a straight 12/24V module and abandon the 120v connection altogether. \


The modules are very sensitive to voltage. If your supply conductors are even close to being marginal, increase the size of the wire. They do not like low voltage, so mind the voltage drop scrupulously.



If you cruise beyond easy reach of parts, a spare module and condenser fan should be in your spare parts inventory. If you have multiple Danfoss-equipped refrigeration systems on board, you can likely find a single module that will suit as a replacement for any of the units, keeping in mind a 12/24 module can be swapped for a 12/24/120 with no consequence.
Thanks very much, Steve and all. There is a guy looking at it right now—too much on my pre-departure list to go after it. He’s found a . . . wait for it . . . filthy fan.
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Old 07-16-2018, 07:59 AM   #8
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Thanks very much, Steve and all. There is a guy looking at it right now—too much on my pre-departure list to go after it. He’s found a . . . wait for it . . . filthy fan.
REPLACE the fan and clean the coils too, while you have it out.
Keep the old fan in the 'parts locker.'
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Old 07-16-2018, 08:01 AM   #9
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REPLACE the fan and clean the coils too, while you have it out.
Keep the old fan in the 'parts locker.'
Yeah, will do. Looks like it’s either a bad fan or control module.
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Old 07-16-2018, 08:03 AM   #10
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Yeah, will do. Looks like it’s either a bad fan or control module.
Yea, the fan is no doubt 'tired' from running dirty.
What would be nice is both fridges used the same control board and fan.
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Old 07-16-2018, 08:17 AM   #11
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Hey Angus, there was a thread a couple of weeks ago describing your exact problem with part numbers, etc. Different fridge but likely similar if not identical parts:

Vitrifrigo repairs

Maerin came up with the part numbers for Vitrifrigo. Your fridge should have a similar fan. Remember, be sure to get a ball bearing fan if you can source it. It's an easy fix if you don't mind standing on your head for 20 minutes or so....
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Old 07-16-2018, 08:25 AM   #12
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Hey Angus, there was a thread a couple of weeks ago describing your exact problem with part numbers, etc. Different fridge but likely similar if not identical parts:

Vitrifrigo repairs

Maerin came up with the part numbers for Vitrifrigo. Your fridge should have a similar fan. Remember, be sure to get a ball bearing fan if you can source it. It's an easy fix if you don't mind standing on your head for 20 minutes or so....
ONLY 20 minutes? Working upside down has almost become second nature.

Seriously, thanks
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Old 07-16-2018, 09:36 AM   #13
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angus, problem solved on the first fridge?
While he was there, did he pull out the second fridge and change out the fan and clean the coils too?
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Old 07-16-2018, 11:13 AM   #14
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angus, problem solved on the first fridge?
While he was there, did he pull out the second fridge and change out the fan and clean the coils too?
He’s ordering the fan (ball bearing) now. I asked for two and will replace and clean the other unit on my own time (when I have some). Thanks for your help, Dan.
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Old 07-16-2018, 01:16 PM   #15
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He’s ordering the fan (ball bearing) now. I asked for two and will replace and clean the other unit on my own time (when I have some). Thanks for your help, Dan.
Thank the others too. Everything here is a joint efforts. While he is ordering parts, consider getting new door seals for each refrigerator and freezer. Cant hurt and may help a bit more.
My seals were at least 10 years old and the new seals were "new and improved design."
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