Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 01-29-2013, 06:25 PM   #1
Senior Member
 
Tangler's Avatar
 
City: Abbotsford
Country: canada
Vessel Name: Lucky Penny
Vessel Model: 38' C & L Puget Trawler
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 115
Flying Bridge disassembly- experience anyone?

Hello fellow trawler owners!! my first time here. dont know how I missed this site before...probably refinishing teak or changing 7 various oil reservoirs or washing and cleaning or...TRYING TO STOP LEAKS! I will be removing the upper deck and glassing it over this year but now I have determined there is a leak problem under the band of teak that girds the flying bridge cowling around the front. I have removed the plugs and screws and tried to cut the sealant still binding the board to the fiberglass but it wont move. Has anyone had experience removing this board before? What did you use to cut the sealant or bedding goop? I was not very successful doing this but I am trying to avoid damage. Is the board flush at the bottom where it meets the fg or is it possible it is "sunk"1/2" or so into the fb beneath the board?
__________________
Advertisement

Tangler is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-29-2013, 06:53 PM   #2
Enigma
 
RT Firefly's Avatar
 
City: Slicker?
Country: Bumpkin?
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 9,996
Greetings,
Welcome aboard. If you can get one end of the band free of the house you will be able to tell it's thickness. Depending on what "goop" is holding it on, you may try one of the caulk softener/removers used for that 5200 stuff (Haven't got a clue what it's called but if it dissolves 5200, it should work on anything). Just get a small crevice started at the top of the band and pour it in. Wait, pour some more...
__________________

__________________
RTF
RT Firefly is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-29-2013, 06:54 PM   #3
Guru
 
BruceK's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 7,570
Is there an "Owners Manual" for the boat? My IG Manual has a diagram with text of the attachment method.
My boat had a leak at the attachment line under the molding covering the joint. Repair involved sacrificing the moulding to remove it, resealing the joint with fiberglass and epoxy,and new molding. Fresh rain water forced into the defect by wind on the bow is a recipe for rot and the sooner you get in there the better.
__________________
BruceK
Island Gypsy 36 Europa "Doriana"
Sydney Australia
BruceK is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-29-2013, 08:34 PM   #4
Senior Member
 
Tangler's Avatar
 
City: Abbotsford
Country: canada
Vessel Name: Lucky Penny
Vessel Model: 38' C & L Puget Trawler
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 115
no owners manual on construction and I have not been able to find any on the www. are you able to post a pic of the attachment method? I hate to take a saw or bar to it but thats the point I am at...sucker wont budge...
Tangler is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-29-2013, 08:38 PM   #5
Guru
 
psneeld's Avatar
 
City: Avalon, NJ
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Freedom
Vessel Model: Albin 40
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 15,903
I removed mine.....screws inside the bridge and out...many times there were screws holding the wood trim on and some more screws buried under the goo that screw the bridge to blocks under the bridge fairing.
psneeld is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-29-2013, 08:40 PM   #6
Senior Member
 
Tangler's Avatar
 
City: Abbotsford
Country: canada
Vessel Name: Lucky Penny
Vessel Model: 38' C & L Puget Trawler
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 115
mine is a 1977. Brucek yours looks similar and there are many out there that look alike in that respect because of their common Taiwan ancestry...pardon if yours is not. - the board on mine measures 4.5" on the outside but the glassed in bulge it is attached to on the inside on the cowling is 5.5". even allowing for 1/4" fg it leaves 1/2' unaccounted for . thats why I ask if it could be bedded into a recess or??where it meets bottom of board to outside windshield overhang...
Tangler is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-29-2013, 09:24 PM   #7
Enigma
 
RT Firefly's Avatar
 
City: Slicker?
Country: Bumpkin?
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 9,996
Greetings,
Ah, the plot thickens...Mr. T. It may be that the bulge on the inside is necessary to give the screws coming from the outside (under those bungs you removed) something to bed into unless I totally misunderstand what you are describing.
__________________
RTF
RT Firefly is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-29-2013, 09:45 PM   #8
Enigma
 
RT Firefly's Avatar
 
City: Slicker?
Country: Bumpkin?
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 9,996
Additional greetings,
I removed some 4' of 1/4 round molding around a hatch last summer. Like yourself, I REALLY wanted to save that molding. Some Nimrod had used the goop from hell to "bed" the molding. I took a thin 1" putty knife, heated it up dull red hot with a propane torch and quickly jammed it into the minute gap between the molding and the FG deck thereby burning the goop. After I got about 2" burned out, I very carefully jammed a small flat screwdriver between the molding and the deck and created a small gap which I was able to increase by moving the screwdriver along as I did further burns. Took me 2 (easy) days but I saved the molding.
A few things to note: Try not to breath the combustion products. It ruins the palette for the single malt. Do a burn and wait for a few minutes. Even though the thermal mass of the putty knife blade is small, if you try to proceed too quickly, you're going to heat up the FG by too frequent applications of the hot blade and potentially cause damage. Keep careful but firm pressure on the band by judicious placement of your screwdriver/wedges.
The ox is slow but the earth is patient
__________________
RTF
RT Firefly is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-29-2013, 09:49 PM   #9
Guru
 
BruceK's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 7,570
Tangler,
I will try to scan and post from the Manual, when the IT hotshot gets home.
The brief text says you remove the molding. The shipwrights cut mine in sections, removing pieces until the whole of the joining defect was exposed to repair.The shipwright milled a new molding out of teak. And we found mold, of the other kind.
Surprisingly,the IG has no Taiwan origin, they were built in mainland China, and fitted out and finished in Hong Kong. Harvey Halvorsen is credited with the design.
__________________
BruceK
Island Gypsy 36 Europa "Doriana"
Sydney Australia
BruceK is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-29-2013, 10:21 PM   #10
Senior Member
 
Tangler's Avatar
 
City: Abbotsford
Country: canada
Vessel Name: Lucky Penny
Vessel Model: 38' C & L Puget Trawler
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 115
thats exactly what it is - I guess that does not indicate the width of the board nessesarily I found another forum that shows a GB repair of the same joint but that boat did not have this wide board. it showed the cowling as just butting against the overhang. I thought it would be moulded around the overhang in one piece to avoid leaks but as per the GB,...perhaps not. and it was a terrible join...huge irregular gaps...I have not been able to see mine yet. any ideas yet on how to detach this piece? Magic tools?
Tangler is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-29-2013, 10:28 PM   #11
Senior Member
 
Tangler's Avatar
 
City: Abbotsford
Country: canada
Vessel Name: Lucky Penny
Vessel Model: 38' C & L Puget Trawler
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 115
the burning thing sounds interesting but the problem is with the scraper...which of course I have tried...scrapers are too short to reach the bottom of the back of the board when I drive it down there with a hammer...I need a blade that is 6" and able to take a hammering...you would be surprised how hard that is to find...thats why I ask about tool ideas...thanks for all the input guys...keep it coming..
Tangler is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-29-2013, 10:43 PM   #12
Scraping Paint
 
City: -
Country: -
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 13,748
You could also try a heat gun to loosen the bedding/adhesive.
Marin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-29-2013, 10:46 PM   #13
Guru
 
Steve's Avatar
 
City: Thibodaux, Louisiana
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Gumbo
Vessel Model: 2003 Monk 36
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 3,607
Quote:
Originally Posted by RT Firefly View Post
Greetings,
Welcome aboard. If you can get one end of the band free of the house you will be able to tell it's thickness. Depending on what "goop" is holding it on, you may try one of the caulk softener/removers used for that 5200 stuff (Haven't got a clue what it's called but if it dissolves 5200, it should work on anything). Just get a small crevice started at the top of the band and pour it in. Wait, pour some more...
DEBOND is one of them

Marine Formula by DeBond

I have used it a couple of times it does help, as FT said put it on let it sit stick a knife point into it to loosen it up and let the Debond soak in then repeat.
Steve W
Steve is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-29-2013, 11:26 PM   #14
Guru
 
HopCar's Avatar


 
City: Miami Florida
Vessel Name: Possum
Vessel Model: Ellis 28
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 3,505
Steve beat me to it. Debond is what RTF was thinking of. Works pretty good.
Working a thin strong wire between the wood and fiberglass can be used to cut the bonding agent but doesn't sound like you have access to both edges of the wood.
Marin's idea might be worth a try. I've used heat to release metal fittings that were bonded to fiberglass with 5200.
HopCar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-30-2013, 12:59 AM   #15
Guru
 
BruceK's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 7,570
Tangler, a 6" blade you can hammer, how about a stonemasons cold chisel.
Here (I hope) are the 2 attachment diagrams. One is for "GPR"(?GRP) boats, the other is unspecified, but IG built in wood too. I hope you have the skills to enlarge them. If not, I could resend to an email address, or even fax them.
My suspicion is you may have to accept doing irreparable damage to the molding while removing it, but if you do it in sections by making cuts in it, you may be more successful.
It`s not hard to imagine rain driven at 40kts into the defect. You won`t have imagine it for long. My PO of 25 years knew there was a leak but could not find it. We found a lump of a fungus. Good luck with it.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Image.jpg
Views:	105
Size:	88.6 KB
ID:	16218   Click image for larger version

Name:	Image (2).jpg
Views:	100
Size:	83.9 KB
ID:	16219  
__________________
BruceK
Island Gypsy 36 Europa "Doriana"
Sydney Australia
BruceK is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-30-2013, 06:40 AM   #16
Guru
 
psneeld's Avatar
 
City: Avalon, NJ
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Freedom
Vessel Model: Albin 40
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 15,903
look here and see if anything helps...
i doubt the bedding is what has it so securely unless the bridge has been off before and got 5200ed down.

The Albin Restoration
psneeld is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-30-2013, 11:49 AM   #17
Senior Member
 
Tangler's Avatar
 
City: Abbotsford
Country: canada
Vessel Name: Lucky Penny
Vessel Model: 38' C & L Puget Trawler
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 115
thanks so much Brucek and your techie for the diagrams..gives me valuable clues but not quite my installation - where your A - A detail shows a narrow teak strip to anchor to the fare of the cowling is where I have a 4.5" board double screwed and glued. As to the chisel it lacks the flexability of the scraper type bladeand I am concerned about damage. I have pretty much decided not to try and save the board...bad shape anyway...will be going to my favorite tool store today for more implements of destruction. Time to get serious...you guys have been great...will check out the Albin restore a little later and comment later today
Tangler is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-30-2013, 05:08 PM   #18
Senior Member
 
Tangler's Avatar
 
City: Abbotsford
Country: canada
Vessel Name: Lucky Penny
Vessel Model: 38' C & L Puget Trawler
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 115
the albin restore is great. good job. shows me again how the gridge is mounted to the top of the cabin. I went to Canadian tire believe it or not and found a couple of good possibilities for tools...one is a lethal looking bar from stanley called fubar that looks real promising...wont get a chance to try it out until the weekend. My boat is over an hour away so I try to go just once a week. I want to get all this floor and bridge work done before spring so I guess I will be overnighting as much as I can. fortunately so far this winter the weather is intermittantly ok and I can work under tarps. cant afford a boathouse or shop to work in but that may become a factor when all the prep is done...Thanks again and hope to see y`all on the water
Tangler is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-30-2013, 06:39 PM   #19
Newbie
 
City: Treasure Island, Fl
Country: US
Vessel Name: Carina
Vessel Model: MT38
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 3
I recently completed this project on my 38' MT DC.
Pulled the wood off with a prybar and hammer.
Then got into it with orbital sanders, coarse grit, finer grits, and went after it with West system thickened epoxy. Took quite a while to complete, but NO LEAKS!
Can send pics of the whole process if you want.
Easy process in retrospect.
Cheers,
Capt Tom
MT38 Carina
Clearwater Municipal Marina
capttom09 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-30-2013, 07:03 PM   #20
Guru
 
BruceK's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 7,570
Tangler, Happy to help. The diagrams are from the IG Owners Manual, they came in pristine condition with my 1981 boat (not in pristine condition).
The inevitable violence will be hidden by repairs and the new cover strip. From various posts it seems the fwd join attachment of the flybridge is a weak point. Maybe it starts ok but suffers facing into the weather, seems unlikely so many builders get it so wrong.
__________________

__________________
BruceK
Island Gypsy 36 Europa "Doriana"
Sydney Australia
BruceK is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off





All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:16 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2006 - 2012