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Old 01-31-2013, 12:17 PM   #21
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your right Bruce...I suspect most of our boats (trawlers), if not all, would have issues like this after what I have researched so far. I used to be in the RV industry as a younger man and leaks/repairs were a main source of business for us.I have also worked in home renos and wood rot in BC is incredible. -jobs you can pull apart with your hands! we live in a rain forest and you can grow moss on a billiard ball around here so it is inevitable.
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Old 02-04-2013, 12:51 PM   #22
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Well, got the durn thing off...took 2 of us with pry bars and goop cutters about 5 hours. I would have loved to save that much teak but the boat is a 77 and the wood turned out to be in bad shape. The winning removal advise from above, therefore, was, prying it off screws and all and dont cry over split wood. Thanks Capttom for the pics too as yours were the closest to being the same as my installation. The board was bedded originally but subsequent improperly done re-seals and repairs etc over the years made it hard to remove. Once I got a piece of it off I could see where NOT to apply my prybars and we could then tear it out by the roots. Hope this info helps others with this common leak problem. My advise is to do a complete job...remove the board, dont just try to seal it because that will not work for long. Thanks again folks.
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Old 02-05-2013, 02:19 AM   #23
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Well I had zero advice to give but I'm glad you had a win old mate!
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Old 09-18-2014, 04:57 PM   #24
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Well trawlerites, job is done at last...on the upper deck anyway. The fb was made to be assembled..or unassembled but there was no easy way in this case. Pried and destroyed the teak band off and you could see where the fb was 'slotted' into the fiberglass moulded receiving piece on the main upper deck. Sealed it with glass and west systems epoxy on the inside first accessed by crawling under the fb dashboard and cleaning and scraping all the old goop off the exposed outside. this was just the start as it became obvious their was rot inside the moulded slot or bolster that was under the removed teak band. I bought a fein multimaster oscillating tool of which there are many copies today but not one this good...used it every day and worth its weight in gold.
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Old 09-18-2014, 05:07 PM   #25
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Explored with drill holes around the front as shown and cut out sections of the glass using the fein..kept the pieces by the way and glassed and epoxied them back in when done repairing...that was easier than I thought it would be. The wood was removed using a variety of destructive implements. Very often it was just chipped out or pulled out by hand as there was little or no integrity left in the wood. As you can see, one thing led to another and sections of the ceiling and/or upper deck were removed to chase the damage. This was done on both sides of the wheelhouse and back a couple of feet and around the deck under the handrail until I found good wood I could work with.
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Old 09-18-2014, 05:26 PM   #26
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As I worked my way down the arms of the fb it also became apparent that the teak deck was suspect and the wood inside the base of the arms was bad too. The debate became -should we keep the teak deck or toss it-after trying to save it for a few hours the toss it side won the debate and I conscripted my wrecking crew and we tore it off with a lot of effort. - a crying shame , I know, but life is too short to spend it trying to save 30+ year old wood. Wait for the end result before you judge me however! After the floor was off I could use a hammer to sound out the soft spots in the upper deck and the 2 front corners and mid sections 4 -5 feet each side along the handrail and the entire rear section from the aft door back ( about 3 feet by 11 )feet were removed. the glass was left in place where possible and the now weakened rear section was propped up and roped off for safety
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Old 09-18-2014, 05:44 PM   #27
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Repairs were shaped and crafted to fit into the original fiberglass or reinvented to be better than new and then epoxied and screwed into place. I used African mahogany which turned out to be great to work with. The rear section which included all around the hatch was the biggest challenge. I worked 2 weeks putting it together to be installed in one piece. Compound curves- the cant of the deck had to be maintained and the outward curve of the upper stern- was done with a lamination of black walnut which I had in my garage for years. It took 4 guys to lift it into place and secured it again with epoxy and screws. The original deck had no venting or drain holes for water to escape so that has been corrected. I suspect that at times there were gallons of water up there that could not even evaporate out.
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Old 09-18-2014, 05:48 PM   #28
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Love these project posts, I regret not having taken more project pictures to share with others, though never did something this radical. Thanks!
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Old 09-18-2014, 06:02 PM   #29
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Long story short when all the structural repairs were done I scraped and grinded all the old bedding material off the upper deck -strongly recommend a good respirator and hasmat suit for this- I sealed the hundreds of screw holes with epoxy and then 2 layers of fiberglass then grind and level with a fiberglass filler made up by a pro who does that sort of thing - sounds easy here but I assure you I worked on this project from early March to end of Oct last year almost full time...say 4 days a week average..sometimes 7 or 8 days running. I had a lot of help from a a good buddy but then he went back to a real job and I was on my own. The floor was professionally gel coated after that.
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Old 09-18-2014, 06:11 PM   #30
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There are many more pics and stories about method and ideas if anyone wants to contact...one of my proudest is in the previous batch of pics along the aft edge of the deck...that 1x1 ridge that finishes the job was moulded with one of those mouldings you use to hang a suspended ceiling in your basement...the wall piece..filled with west systems and taped into place overnight...plastic came off without a hitch and all I had to do was take off the sharp edges! then one day I climbed up the hatch and the floor looked so big I thought it was like a dance floor. Then I thought it looked as big as one of those pontoon party boats...there's a website for everything! As you can see I also put on a hardtop. The canvas room is next...
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Old 09-18-2014, 06:46 PM   #31
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Looks fantastic!! A lot of hard work that appears to have paid off
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Old 09-18-2014, 08:58 PM   #32
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Tangler I had no idea that the leak frm the band of teak on the eyebrow would cause so much damage. I'm in Montana now - should back on the boat in a couple weeks. I'll remove the band & see how much damage there is. As you have found, I'm sure I'll be opening Pandora's Box. It makes no sense to me to step over a dollar to pick up a dime so I'll start there. Thanks for knowledge. I'll keep touch. Tonto
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Old 09-18-2014, 10:02 PM   #33
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Tangler, I remember you investigating this a long time ago, sorry it turned out so big a job, but what a great repair and improvement.
Tonto, hope it goes well. If you uncover soggy stuff, which was once wood and now looks like wet breakfast cereal, you`ve got problems. A small opening letting in water under wind pressure = trouble.
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Old 09-19-2014, 01:19 AM   #34
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Very impressive job! Well done.
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Old 09-19-2014, 01:57 AM   #35
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Just curious to know how thick the first layer of fibreglass was (the layer that the teak decking would sit on)
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