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Old 05-31-2018, 09:53 AM   #1
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Faucet Replacement

Hello everyone: Another project with my old beauty; replacement parts.


It seems that the valve stems on what I believe is the original wall-mounted tub/shower faucet aboard my '86 Monk 42 are irreplaceable. When I visited a plumbing supply with leaky stem in hand, they ask about the brand. And of course, the name is not stamped anywhere on the faucet.



Does anyone happen to know how I could replace either the valve stems or the faucet assembly? I have no issue with the labour involved - just finding the parts. To compound the challenge, it's a 6" centre and not the more common 4".


Any advice would be much appreciated. Thanks.
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Old 05-31-2018, 10:40 AM   #2
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You will have to get creative -
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Old 05-31-2018, 10:44 AM   #3
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PIX of the stems? You could cover the mounting area and old holes with some plastic and redrill for the different size spacing
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Old 05-31-2018, 10:48 AM   #4
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I had the same problem with the faucets in my boat. Really strange washer. Went to about 6 plumbing supply houses, no one had ever seen anything like them. I ended up putting in all new faucets throughout the boat. Now I have lifetime warranty on them.
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Old 05-31-2018, 10:53 AM   #5
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I didn't photograph the valve stems. But when I visited a local plumbing supply with stems in hand, the head guy said he didn't believe they could be replaced. I'm considering covering the existing holes and re-drilling for a 4" set, but am hoping to get lucky and find a 4" assembly with a broad enough base plate to cover the 6" centre holes.
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Old 05-31-2018, 11:02 AM   #6
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One possibility would be to go to a Sandvik single lever and separate spout. Single lever control in one hole, spout in the other.
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Old 05-31-2018, 11:12 AM   #7
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Interesting idea. Do you happen to know where I might find this Sandvik brand? Oops; I found Scandvik brand. I'll explore this options. Thanks.
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Old 05-31-2018, 01:00 PM   #8
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I just recently replaced the bath/shower faucet on my 1987 Monk 42. The input water lines for the faucet were 6" from center to center. I didn't find a 6" faucet that I liked that had both a tub nozzle and a fitting for a hand held shower, so we gave up the tub nozzle, as we never used it any way.

For a faucet, I used the Rozin Wall Mount Brass Thermostatic Mixing Valve for Bathroom Shower Head Top Spray ... (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1). We have been very pleased with the automatic temperature feature of this faucet, and the one handed on/off knob -- better than an on/off button.

For the hand held shower I used a YOO.MEE High Pressure Handheld Shower Head (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1). Makes it feel like there's more water pressure than before (I know it doesn't really increase the water pressure).

After a couple of devices that didn't work, I found the Gaoyu Adjustable Handheld Shower Head Holder Bracket, Plastic Bathroom 3M Adhesive Showerhead Adapter worked well (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1). Each of the suction holders I tried fell off the wall within days to weeks.

The one important tip I would offer is that my original faucet had two metal pieces on the input lines that I should have kept. I don't know the correct name for them, but they attach to each input line, the adapter changes direction 45 degrees, then a second 45 degree bend, then a second straight piece. The two adapters had extensions brazed or welded on one end of each adapter. I could not find replacements for those adapters that had the extensions, and couldn't find extensions for the normal adapters at plumbing supply stores or big box DIY stores. So keep those adapters/extensions and reuse them for the new faucet.
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Old 05-31-2018, 01:16 PM   #9
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If you do happen to find stems (unlikely), you'll still need to replace the seats. If you look into the body where the stems were removed, you should see the seats, they should be removeable and will have either a hex or square hole where the water flows in when the faucet stem lifts off the seat. If the seats aren't replaceable, save your effort, replace the faucet.



The OEM faucet is probably a european faucet, and will be next to impossible to source replacement parts. There are literally thousands of permutations of faucet parts (I'm a retired plumber with many years of faucet repair experience) and finding a match will be more chance than anything.



You may be able to find a replacement in a Grohe, or other of the euro faucets that will mount on those union connections. The two hex nuts behind the faucet body are the union halves that mount the faucet to the nipples that protrude from the wall/bulkhead.



Measure the centers, convert them to metric and search metric as well. Find the replacement first, before you monkey with the OEM and chance boogering it up to where it's not useable!
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Old 05-31-2018, 01:51 PM   #10
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You can make a cover plate out of 1/4” Starboard if you convert it to 4” centers. Starboard is very easy to work with, just like wood.
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Old 05-31-2018, 01:55 PM   #11
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That one I sent you has 6” centres, they are out there.
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Old 06-01-2018, 06:23 AM   #12
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Look in an RV parts place.
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Old 06-01-2018, 09:17 AM   #13
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Shower Faucet Replacement on '86 Monk 42

Thanks, Bob, for your detailed recommendations. I like this idea since I don't have to fuss with back-plates to hide the 6" holes for a conversion to 4" centres. Also, we don't use the tub either, thus a spout is not necessary. Plus the automatic temp control is a bonus. And by gosh, the price is right!



A couple more questions, if you don't mind. Since our boats are similar, were you able to mount the fixture through the existing holes using the hardware that apparently accompanies this mixer? Did you need extensions or adapters? Any issues there? I've not yet removed the old faucet, so don't really know what I'll find.


And what are the odds that the threads of my existing domestic shower hose and wand will match the thread on the new mixer? A previous owner of my boat had replaced this hose awhile ago, so it's not original equipment. Is this new mixer European?


I'll retain all the parts after removal just in case I need them for the installation. Thanks again for your experienced advice. R


Quote:
Originally Posted by BobT53 View Post
I just recently replaced the bath/shower faucet on my 1987 Monk 42. The input water lines for the faucet were 6" from center to center. I didn't find a 6" faucet that I liked that had both a tub nozzle and a fitting for a hand held shower, so we gave up the tub nozzle, as we never used it any way.

For a faucet, I used the Rozin Wall Mount Brass Thermostatic Mixing Valve for Bathroom Shower Head Top Spray ... (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1). We have been very pleased with the automatic temperature feature of this faucet, and the one handed on/off knob -- better than an on/off button.

For the hand held shower I used a YOO.MEE High Pressure Handheld Shower Head (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1). Makes it feel like there's more water pressure than before (I know it doesn't really increase the water pressure).

After a couple of devices that didn't work, I found the Gaoyu Adjustable Handheld Shower Head Holder Bracket, Plastic Bathroom 3M Adhesive Showerhead Adapter worked well (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1). Each of the suction holders I tried fell off the wall within days to weeks.

The one important tip I would offer is that my original faucet had two metal pieces on the input lines that I should have kept. I don't know the correct name for them, but they attach to each input line, the adapter changes direction 45 degrees, then a second 45 degree bend, then a second straight piece. The two adapters had extensions brazed or welded on one end of each adapter. I could not find replacements for those adapters that had the extensions, and couldn't find extensions for the normal adapters at plumbing supply stores or big box DIY stores. So keep those adapters/extensions and reuse them for the new faucet.
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Old 06-01-2018, 09:20 AM   #14
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Hey Bob: Still learning how to use this forum. I posted a more detailed post with questions and the quote of your message. Thanks. R
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Old 06-01-2018, 09:41 AM   #15
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The hardest part of that job on our boat would be accessing the plumbing between the shower stall and the hull. Not a happy place to see, let alone reach in, or apply tools.


I, almost routinely, make cover plates to adapt faucets (and sailboat instruments) to countertops or whatever. Faucets often come with really ugly baseplates, and/or don't fit my thick countertops. Preferably, I use material matching the faucet or matching the surround, shaped to not look like a patch.


Pics taken by holding the camera in the space behind the (removed) back-of-toilet panel. Ahh, pooh! Can't figure out how to rotate these to the left!
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Old 06-01-2018, 10:06 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RossWilson View Post
Hello everyone: Another project with my old beauty; replacement parts.


It seems that the valve stems on what I believe is the original wall-mounted tub/shower faucet aboard my '86 Monk 42 are irreplaceable. When I visited a plumbing supply with leaky stem in hand, they ask about the brand. And of course, the name is not stamped anywhere on the faucet.



Does anyone happen to know how I could replace either the valve stems or the faucet assembly? I have no issue with the labour involved - just finding the parts. To compound the challenge, it's a 6" centre and not the more common 4".


Any advice would be much appreciated. Thanks.
I had a similar problem several years ago. I solved it with this Co.
https://usa.hudsonreed.com/single-le...-bracket-66992

Their stuff is great quality, came quickly, was easy to install and so far has been completely trouble free.
After doing the boat, I re-did bathrooms with Hudson reed stuff in two houses.
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Old 06-01-2018, 10:15 AM   #17
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Fortunately, DHeckrotte, the tub/shower faucet is through-mounted on a bulkhead wall, with the reverse side exposed in the engine room. Thus, I won't have the challenges you faced. Thanks for your input.
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Old 06-01-2018, 10:29 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by koliver View Post
I had a similar problem several years ago. I solved it with this Co.
https://usa.hudsonreed.com/single-le...-bracket-66992

Their stuff is great quality, came quickly, was easy to install and so far has been completely trouble free.
After doing the boat, I re-did bathrooms with Hudson reed stuff in two houses.
Thanks for the recommendation, Keith. It looks like it would be perfect. However, everywhere I look, it's out of stock. Popular item, perhaps? I'll keep looking. R
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Old 06-01-2018, 10:32 AM   #19
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I would also take this opportunity to toss all that old copper and redo it with Pex and Sharkbite for new clean piping and the ability to quickly service it in the future and permanently prevent leaks.
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Old 06-02-2018, 06:51 AM   #20
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Like Ross said, the back of the Monk 42 is easily accessible from the engine room. All parts on the existing faucet and on all the parts I listed have US common threads . . . everything fit together easily. The only issue are a the extensions from the nipple on each faucet inlet that extend through the bulkhead. The extensions that come with the faucet I listed will work, but it takes more effort to scrap off insultation in the engine room to get enough purchase to screw on the fittings. It's just easier using the extensions from the original faucet instead of the extensions that come with the new faucet.
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