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Old 03-12-2016, 01:23 PM   #1
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Fairly affordable slider pipe for pier

Here's a project I have been pondering for a while. I went to Lowes and purchased a 1 1/4" x 4' galvanized pipe, 2- caps for this pipe, 1/2 x 10 galvanized lag screws, a 12" x 3/8" (would have preferred 5/16") drill pit to pre drill the two holes in the piling, 4- 5/8" galvanized nuts and 6- 1/2" galvanized flat washers. At the boat I drilled a 1/2" hole near each end, did my best attempt at braiding a 3 strand 5/8" line onto a ring I had purchased a while back, I drilled a 1/8" hole in the lower cap to allow drainage- followed by assembly. Works great. ~ $50-
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1983 Present 42 Sundeck
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Old 03-12-2016, 01:34 PM   #2
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That's awesome.
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Old 03-12-2016, 02:30 PM   #3
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Nice but you probably need to thru bolt. The wood will soften around the threads from water. A big wind can pull one out.
I'll take a pic of what's at our dock when I get back after lunch for you.
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Old 03-12-2016, 03:01 PM   #4
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Agree, through bolt....

Also, anyone know the point loading failure numbers of pipe like this?

I have seen the 1 inch solid rod sliders bent pretty badly in even the tame Nor'easters we get at home. Not usually just wind, but the tugging from tidal current and wave action.

I have seen a lot of "marina fabricated or homegrown" pipe sliders for 25 foot and under outboard type boats...but never bigger. In my marina...anything over 30 feet or so is tied to pilings, sliders not allowed (mostly).

But I keep having to remind myself the marina I am at is one of the harshest for mooring on the East Coast south of Atlantic City. But many marinas I stay at during my trip south could go either way...they are so protected....yarn could tie up your boat, or they are exposed enough I would only tie to pilings unless a light outboard type boat.
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Old 03-12-2016, 03:24 PM   #5
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Nice calm weather set up; over time that ring will rub and diminish the galvanizing and rust will take over, but replacement cost is low. Likewise the lag bolts will work their way loose. When a blow comes up, some additional lines to the pilings and dock cleats will be advised.
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Old 03-12-2016, 03:28 PM   #6
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I'm guessing you could slide pipe into the pipe to stiffen it up?
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Old 03-12-2016, 03:41 PM   #7
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I was wondering how the marina allowed you to screw the lag bolts into the piling. Anything screwed or nailed into the pilings will shorten their life.
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Old 03-12-2016, 04:07 PM   #8
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I was wondering how the marina allowed you to screw the lag bolts into the piling. Anything screwed or nailed into the pilings will shorten their life.
In many places it isn't a big deal to the marina.

Most pilings rot from the inner core out or from the "mud line".

If a marina is conscientious about taking care of their pilings sure...but most aren't and allows line hooks, sliders, eyes for lines to separate slips, etc.


In my marina..they get knocked down before they rot......told you it was a tough neighborhood....
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Old 03-12-2016, 05:10 PM   #9
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Thanks Howard


1983 Present 42 Sundeck
Twin Lehman 135's
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Old 03-12-2016, 05:15 PM   #10
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No one is trying to be mean...just helpful...


You are the best judge of whether it will work for you...but for some of us...we know it won't work in some places.
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Old 03-12-2016, 06:21 PM   #11
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Quote:
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I'm guessing you could slide pipe into the pipe to stiffen it up?
Just fill the pipes with sand or concrete ( although concrete is caustic) and that will stiffen them up substantially.
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Old 03-12-2016, 06:34 PM   #12
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Forklift, I think it will work fine! P.C. Marina is pretty well protected. It would have been really nice to have had it a few weeks ago when the water was really up. Had to get up several times during the night to adjust lines.
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Old 03-12-2016, 08:56 PM   #13
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Most cleats I see are lagged into the dock
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Old 03-12-2016, 11:00 PM   #14
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Most cleats I see are lagged into the dock
Properly tied line on a cleat will provide primarily a shearing force to the lag bolts on a clear. The concern on the slide pipe was that the force may be pulling out on the bolt and not to the side.
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Old 03-13-2016, 12:56 AM   #15
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Just fill the pipes with sand or concrete ( although concrete is caustic) and that will stiffen them up substantially.
Would pour in 2 part foam do the job? We used it in the body channels of rally cars.
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Old 03-13-2016, 06:50 AM   #16
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Most cleats I see are lagged into the dock
On larger vessels?

ISome might be, but most are? I don't believe so.

And if they were....many here would recommend through bolting anywayv....IF possible.

Also if they were, most would recommend against buying a boat like that as what other corners were cut.

Sure the lag bolts might hold long enough, be stronger than the actual pipie, are allowed where thru bolting may not be, be OK in all but a hurricane....not sure people would argue those issue.....at least in my case....just suggesting that they might not be and now is the time to think about it....not AFTER hurricane season starts.
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Old 03-13-2016, 10:26 AM   #17
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My 2 cents worth...

I would have through bolted it just around the curve of the piling, so it does not offer the opportunity to bash the boat while docking. As it is now, if you bump it while docking, you hit a small radius steel pipe, not a big wood piling.

I would have sprayed the drilled holes with zinc spray since any cut edge (threads too) will rust in a marine environment.

OK, back to my arm chair...
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Old 03-13-2016, 10:42 AM   #18
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Drop a piece of re bar in the pipe , it will not bend as far.
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Old 03-13-2016, 10:50 AM   #19
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rebar is known for being flexible. But it will add to the energy it will take to bend both.

If strength is needed, coaxial pipes (one inside the other filled and sealed with concrete would make it the stiffest pipe.

Assuming that most of the load will be lower, due to gravity, the bottom bolt / thru bolt should be sized bigger.

The worst case is pulling on the ring in the middle, since any bending would put the most force on the bolts.

One after thought idea would be put the top bolt about 4 inches down on the pipe, so you cal loop an eye over the end easily...
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Old 03-13-2016, 01:00 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dhays View Post
Properly tied line on a cleat will provide primarily a shearing force to the lag bolts on a clear. The concern on the slide pipe was that the force may be pulling out on the bolt and not to the side.
That's correct, plus I have to say my experience is much different; almost all cleats I see are through bolted. And I have to say I've seen a lot of cleats in a lot of places all over the country.

Another thought about the pipe and metal ring is the noise that ring will make sliding and clanking. Perhaps that why the tide slider set ups I can recall used teflon. Will be interesting to see what the OP's actual experience is.
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