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Old 05-14-2015, 02:09 PM   #1
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engine room cooling

After a day cruising to an anchorage the engine room gets hot and give off heat all night, comfortable in October but not in July. Any ideas on how to cool the engine room in the summer months?
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Old 05-14-2015, 02:23 PM   #2
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You need an exhaust fan, typically a squirrel cage blower that you mount in the engine room and run hose from the discharge to a vent port on the side of the boat. They come in 12V DC or 120V AC.

Run it for about an hour after you shut the engine down to exhaust the hot air from the engine compartment.

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Old 05-14-2015, 02:47 PM   #3
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It's not July yet!!!

Hard for blowers to get rid of heat from thousands of pounds of hot iron. My 2000lb engine is still warm the next morning.

If you run your gennie, it makes even more heat.

Engine room should be insulated from the cabin, at least somewhat. Where are you sensing the heat.
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Old 05-14-2015, 04:30 PM   #4
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Leave the hatches open to let the heat escape faster, meaning a faster cool down.
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Old 05-14-2015, 06:04 PM   #5
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Greetings,
Mr. n. Welcome aboard. I, unfortunately have the same ER overheat problem. I've seen 140F at times. As mentioned, great in February, not so good in July. The ER is well insulated as I can't detect any heat in the saloon deck nor outside the ER door but stifling is putting it mildly. The use of the blower really doesn't help much as I have to exhaust a volume in the neighborhood of 800+ cubic feet. Somewhat seriously considering AC...
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Old 05-14-2015, 06:52 PM   #6
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a one ton engine? is it a MAN v16?

that will make it sit heavy in the stern...
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Old 05-14-2015, 07:30 PM   #7
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We have a pair of 6 cylinder Luggers that weigh in at a ton plus each. Our genny is also 1000 pounds. After everything is heat soaked even 1100 cfm axial fans pushing and pulling together won't drop the er temp below 100 overnight in the summer. That's why you also need insulation.


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Old 05-14-2015, 07:31 PM   #8
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ok, not one ton engine...

cooler is better, always.
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Old 05-14-2015, 08:20 PM   #9
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A Cat 3208 I believe weighs something like 2200 pounds without tranny.
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Old 05-14-2015, 08:32 PM   #10
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Insulate! I can run all day and sit at anchor and not feel any extra heat from my two Perkins in the saloon.
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Old 05-15-2015, 01:16 AM   #11
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a one ton engine? is it a MAN v16?

that will make it sit heavy in the stern...
Reminds me of my first wife.
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Old 05-15-2015, 04:45 AM   #12
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make sure you have at least 1 sq in for every HP air intake. Try to keep ER temp down to 10-12 deg above ambient temp.I run a 120 hp 6BD1 .
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Old 05-15-2015, 05:22 AM   #13
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The higher the engine intake air is, the less efficient it runs. You are effectively lowering the engine compression when you feed hot air to an engine. I guess you can run a turbo with an intercooler to fix that... If you must have a hot ER, have your engine intake air pulled from ambient temp fresh air coming from outside the ER.
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Old 05-15-2015, 06:53 AM   #14
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Underway there is no problem powering or listening to huge cooling fans , sucking the heat out.

Anchored the use more insulation idea sounds better , as at least its quiet.

If it really bothers you ,a pair of DC pumps to circ engine coolant thru a heat exchanger to the sea might not have to operate too long.
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Old 05-15-2015, 07:26 AM   #15
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RTF - have you considered a chiller using seawater rather than going all the way to AC?

A decade ago as we struggled with where to boat out our retirement years, the PNW won out. No bad winter temperatures and cool water. As we currently work our way north with Port Hardy and further north still dipping into the upper forties F at night, ER heat is much appreciated.

There is life beyond FL. Plus as my skin doctor says, stay out of the sun.
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Old 05-15-2015, 07:52 AM   #16
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Greetings,
Mr. s. AC in the ER is more of a pipe dream at this point as there are many more pressing items to deal with. It's a boat after all. Still, it does get some hot in there. 2 engines, generator, 4 AC units already. LOTS of heat sources. I've found leaving the ports open on opposite sides does help quite a bit particularly if there's a breeze on the beam.
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Old 05-15-2015, 10:31 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stubones99 View Post
The higher the engine intake air is, the less efficient it runs. You are effectively lowering the engine compression when you feed hot air to an engine. I guess you can run a turbo with an intercooler to fix that... If you must have a hot ER, have your engine intake air pulled from ambient temp fresh air coming from outside the ER.
Not correct. Drawing in warm ER air will reduce maximum power output at full, but below full power efficiency will not change enought to measure.

Drawing from outside can bring in salt spray into air intake unless done carefully.
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Old 05-15-2015, 12:18 PM   #18
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We run dual blowers, typically turned on early in the approach and the 5 mph zone, then for another 30+ minutes or so during shut down/clean up, don't think it drops the engine room temp down much, but I feel better about it ;-)
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Old 05-15-2015, 12:39 PM   #19
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I actually like to keep the engine room temps up in order to facilitate moisture removal. The difference in air's moisture capacity between 100 and 130 degrees f is huge. Great for drying laundry and actually healthier for the machinery too. Note our batteries are elsewhere. Also after a good heat soak every thing in the er comes to an equilibrium temp and your going to need ridiculous amounts of cooling air with high delta t to make anything cooler.


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Old 05-15-2015, 03:14 PM   #20
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A decade ago as we struggled with where to boat out our retirement years, the PNW won out. No bad winter temperatures and cool water. As we currently work our way north with Port Hardy and further north still dipping into the upper forties F at night, ER heat is much appreciated.
Tom, it's nice to see where you're headed. Enjoy your retired life in the great PNW.
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