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05-14-2021, 07:30 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
City: Swansea
Vessel Name: Seaview
Vessel Model: Sundowner 32
Join Date: Apr 2020
Posts: 317
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Head sink install question
How do you think Butyl tape would work to hold down and seal my new head sink. The new sink does not have studs so it would be a press to install. The old one was heavily glued down and was a bear to remove without wrecking anything.
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05-14-2021, 08:20 PM
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#2
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Moderator Emeritus
City: Au Gres, MI
Vessel Name: Black Dog
Vessel Model: Formula 41PC
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 21,191
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If you can get it clamped down somehow for a couple of days it may work. Bad thing is if it gets too warm it may run a bit.
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Boat Nut:
If you are one there is no explanation necessary.
If you aren’t one, there is no explanation possible.
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05-17-2021, 06:05 AM
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#3
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Guru
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 22,553
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AT LAST, a use for 5200 !
Put the sink in place , use masking tape to catch extra goop, use a concrete block yo hold sink down and spray water on sink/counter top seam to help cure the goop.
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05-17-2021, 08:04 AM
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#4
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TF Site Team
City: Jacksonville
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 11,683
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No on the butyl tape. It’s not an adhesive. FFs idea would work or ask a plumber. They glue down sinks regularly.
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05-17-2021, 09:08 AM
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#5
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Guru
City: Gulf coast
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 2,271
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In my observation, plumbers usually use a high quality clear Silicone. It is the choice that has been around for decades, worked for decades, is stain an mildew resistant, and doesn't get them in trouble with the customer if there is some residue (because it is clear). In my observation few have had any reason to change. I've occasionally seen them use white if the sink is white.
I don't like Silicone anywhere near my boat, so I'd probably use some other "kitchen and bath" caulk that lists itself as paintable.
If the sink fits well, I'm nitnsure there is a reason to weight it. I'd only do that if there was more of a gap than I wanted, it didn't take more than a little force to hold it, and I couldn't fix the root cause. Or, I guess if I expected wild boat moment at a rough mooring or anchorage or something.
I wouldn't spend the money on topside or bottom side caulk for that purpose. I just see it making it harder to get it back out if doingnsovis ever needed to get a better angle on a valve or other plumbing for service.
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05-17-2021, 09:41 AM
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#6
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TF Site Team
City: Saltspring Island
Vessel Name: Retreat
Vessel Model: C&L 44
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 5,663
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gkesden
In my observation, plumbers usually use a high quality clear Silicone. It is the choice that has been around for decades, worked for decades, is stain an mildew resistant, and doesn't get them in trouble with the customer if there is some residue (because it is clear). In my observation few have had any reason to change. I've occasionally seen them use white if the sink is white.
I don't like Silicone anywhere near my boat, so I'd probably use some other "kitchen and bath" caulk that lists itself as paintable.
If the sink fits well, I'm nitnsure there is a reason to weight it. I'd only do that if there was more of a gap than I wanted, it didn't take more than a little force to hold it, and I couldn't fix the root cause. Or, I guess if I expected wild boat moment at a rough mooring or anchorage or something.
I wouldn't spend the money on topside or bottom side caulk for that purpose. I just see it making it harder to get it back out if doingnsovis ever needed to get a better angle on a valve or other plumbing for service.
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Lexel. It is clear, easy to use, very long lasting, and best of all, NOT SILICONE. NEVER use silicone on a boat. A mantra to live by.
__________________
Keith
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05-17-2021, 10:43 AM
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#7
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Guru
City: Dewatto
Vessel Name: CHiTON
Vessel Model: Tung Hwa Clipper 30
Join Date: Jan 2020
Posts: 1,096
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Butyl tape works if the sink also has some kind of a hold down clamp system. If a surface mounted stainless sink, seat it with butyl, use a heat gun to warm the edge and take another turn on the clamps. I wouldn't use something like 5200 unless it was an undermount and I was planning on standing in the sink. That kind of adhesion simply isn't required. I just did a porcelain undermount sink bonded to Corian with just hardware store caulking. Plenty of grip without having to demolish the head if it needed to be replaced.
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Marco Flamingo
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03-05-2024, 10:26 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
City: Snohomish
Vessel Name: TBD
Vessel Model: Sundowner 30
Join Date: Jul 2019
Posts: 154
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I am going to change out my sink also, (Sundowner 30). As you have the 32, if your surface fiberglass as mine is? I want to install a bigger sink and different faucets
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03-05-2024, 12:09 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
City: N/A
Join Date: Apr 2022
Posts: 185
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Quote:
Originally Posted by koliver
Lexel. It is clear, easy to use, very long lasting, and best of all, NOT SILICONE. NEVER use silicone on a boat. A mantra to live by.
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Just curious why no silicone ever?
Please clarify.
Thank you
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03-05-2024, 01:09 PM
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#10
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Moderator Emeritus
City: Au Gres, MI
Vessel Name: Black Dog
Vessel Model: Formula 41PC
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 21,191
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mac G
Just curious why no silicone ever?
Please clarify.
Thank you
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Because once you use silicone you can never get it all off and nothing will stick to the place.
__________________
Boat Nut:
If you are one there is no explanation necessary.
If you aren’t one, there is no explanation possible.
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03-05-2024, 07:01 PM
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#11
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Guru
City: Ft Pierce
Vessel Name: Sold
Vessel Model: Was an Albin/PSN 40
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 28,154
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Other than if you are not careful with prep before painting, I have been using silicone in some applications aboard boats my whole life recreationally and professionally...I just don't see the big deal some hear do.
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