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Old 11-24-2013, 09:46 AM   #1
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Dive compressor

Anyone ever permanently installed one of these or used one? Seems like a good idea, instead of using tanks.
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Old 11-24-2013, 11:32 AM   #2
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I used one (gas powered) a couple of weeks ago. Works great. The owner stated that if he replaced it he would get an electric one. FWIW
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Old 11-24-2013, 11:33 AM   #3
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We have one similar that we made. We consider it essential cruising gear. We are both PADI certified and considered tanks but they can be an issue getting filled in some areas plus storage. The hookah gets used for cleaning the bottom/running gear, changing zincs and getting stuff off the bottom that gets dropped at anchor. Ours is good for about 30' and it can run off the invertor or generator.
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Old 11-24-2013, 11:43 AM   #4
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I have used them before, they are nice for shallow diving, say 30' or less. much more and the hose becomes quite cumbersome. for a passage maker they could be a literal lifesaver if underwater repairs became necessary.
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Old 11-24-2013, 12:47 PM   #5
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Ok, we'll be shallow diving nothing over 15 feet.
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Old 11-24-2013, 01:40 PM   #6
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I just use a long regulator hose. Lay the SCUBA tank on the rear deck, have about 15 feet of hose, and go under to do whatever has to be done.
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Old 11-24-2013, 02:58 PM   #7
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any oiless compressor will work.

check "homemade hooka" out and you can read for weeks...I did.

even FSTbottoms (pro bottom cleaner) here says there is no real difference as many hooka manufacturers are just using cheapo oiless compressors anyway.

he does recommend using food grade air hose or ones made for the scuba industry....there are 2 sides to that story you can read about too.

I used an old compressor I had around for years...bought a $5 brass adapter so it fit my regulator and all summer I was changing zincs, clearing intakes, etc..etc... best $5 I ever spent...saved me a $400 haul or diver bill to do zincs and bottom cleaning this summer.
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Old 11-25-2013, 07:27 AM   #8
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Remember the physical relationship between the noisemaker exhaust and the air pump intake is critical!
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Old 11-25-2013, 08:01 AM   #9
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Alright, check out the DIy ones and see what I come up with.
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Old 11-25-2013, 08:31 AM   #10
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I installed a Senco 1.5hp oil-less compressor (Amazon.com $170.00) in one of the aft cabin lockers. The hose is from Brownie's Third Lung and cost about the same as the compressor. It is stored on hooks above the compressor when not in use. The convenience of not having to get tanks refilled just to dive the bottom of my boat makes the cost well worthwhile.

In additon to hose and compressor, you need a second-stage regulator (the mouthpiece one) and a weight belt.
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Old 11-25-2013, 08:35 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shoalwaters View Post
I installed a Senco 1.5hp oil-less compressor (Amazon.com $170.00) in one of the aft cabin lockers. The hose is from Brownie's Third Lung and cost about the same as the compressor. It is stored on hooks above the compressor when not in use. The convenience of not having to get tanks refilled just to dive the bottom of my boat makes the cost well worthwhile. In additon to hose and compressor, you need a second-stage regulator (the mouthpiece one) and a weight belt.
Thanks, this looks like the best option. Is there any smell in the air well diving? Also how many amps does it draw?
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Old 11-25-2013, 08:50 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwnall View Post
I just use a long regulator hose. Lay the SCUBA tank on the rear deck, have about 15 feet of hose, and go under to do whatever has to be done.
+1

My hose is 50' so I can do a hull inspection with out moving the tank from midships.

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Old 11-25-2013, 08:59 AM   #13
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I also use a 50 ft hose and a regular scuba tank.
However my buddy bought a cheapo oiless pancake style compressor (like the roofing guys use) and that's what he uses....with a standard air hose connected to his regulator. I've never used his rig, but he has many times while we're rafted up.
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Old 11-25-2013, 09:01 AM   #14
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If you make your own, the fitting between the hose and the pig-tail from the second stage regulator can be hard to find. We bought a couple at a commercial dive shop in San Diego. The threads are different. It is my understanding that it is a safety feature to prevent breathing air lines and standard compressor fittings from mating.
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Old 11-25-2013, 09:04 AM   #15
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For the DIY systems, do you need to use a low pressure regular? I seem to remember something special about it...
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Old 11-25-2013, 11:21 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry M View Post
If you make your own, the fitting between the hose and the pig-tail from the second stage regulator can be hard to find. We bought a couple at a commercial dive shop in San Diego. The threads are different. It is my understanding that it is a safety feature to prevent breathing air lines and standard compressor fittings from mating.
I just took my regular backup regulator, cut the hose, and spliced in 15' of heavy-duty fuel hose with a couple of stents and hose clamps.

Now, before anyone jumps on my case, let me say that I would NEVER consider using it for anything other than just going under the boat with it, where I can always toss it away and come up without it should I have to. I always have a snorkle and mask, as well as fins. I've been using it for about six years, though, and never had a moment of trouble.

And of course I have my regular regulator for real diving.
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Old 11-25-2013, 04:28 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N4712 View Post
.......... Is there any smell in the air when diving? Also how many amps does it draw?
No, there is no smell whatsoever - just like breathing tank air. Any forum members with information/experience on what types of hose is safe/unsafe for breathing air, please chime in.


The spec sheet says the current draw is 8 amps. My Kill-A-Watt reads 800 watts when the compressor is running.
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For the DIY systems, do you need to use a low pressure regular?
Yes. As in my original post, you need a second-stage regulator (the low-pressure mouthpiece one). Workshop-type compressors and first-stage scuba regulators supply air at something like 120 - 130 psi.
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If you make your own, the fitting between the hose and the pig-tail from the second stage regulator can be hard to find. We bought a couple at a commercial dive shop in San Diego. The threads are different. It is my understanding that it is a safety feature to prevent breathing air lines and standard compressor fittings from mating.
Quite right - I forgot. Alternatively, if you go the relatively expensive Brownie's route, you can purchase a special pigtail that solves this problem. That still leaves the matter of what happens at the compressor end. Many smallish compressors have a female Milton quick-connect and the Brownies other pigtail is threaded to connect with a high-pressure scuba regulator. I made a small brass adapter to bridge this gap. This is a link to the Brownies website. It (their website) leaves something to be desired, but I found them very helpful on the phone. Milton quick-connects are available in brass from Harbor Freight, Sears etc.
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Old 11-25-2013, 04:39 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shoalwaters View Post
No, there is no smell whatsoever - just like breathing tank air. Any forum members with information/experience on what types of hose is safe/unsafe for breathing air, please chime in. The spec sheet says the current draw is 8 amps. My Kill-A-Watt reads 800 watts when the compressor is running. Yes. As in my original post, you need a second-stage regulator (the low-pressure mouthpiece one). Workshop-type compressors and first-stage scuba regulators supply air at something like 120 - 130 psi. Quite right - I forgot. Alternatively, if you go the relatively expensive Brownie's route, you can purchase a special pigtail that solves this problem. That still leaves the matter of what happens at the compressor end. Many smallish compressors have a female Milton quick-connect and the Brownies other pigtail is threaded to connect with a high-pressure scuba regulator. I made a small brass adapter to bridge this gap. This is a link to the Brownies website. It (their website) leaves something to be desired, but I found them very helpful on the phone. Milton quick-connects are available in brass from Harbor Freight, Sears etc.
Thanks for the info!
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Old 11-25-2013, 06:52 PM   #19
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My brass fitting I found at Lowes in the air compressor fitting area...not where they have all the brass fittings usually....only 4 bucks or so...it's nothing too special.

If you use a "cheapo" compressor...the recommendation from the pros is to bypass the steel tank as they tend to flake rust unless you put a decent filtering system in.
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Old 11-25-2013, 10:12 PM   #20
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I have made a bunch of these adapters over the years. Most of these hoses have a 1/4" fpt (female pipe thread [tapered]). Most scuba regulator hoses have a 3/8" 24 fine straight thread with an o-ring seal at the first stage. If you buy a 1/4" to 1/8" brass pipe bushing, it may work without modification. To modifie it, simply take a 3/8" fine thread tap and chase the internal threads (they are very close already). Then take a counter sink or 1/2" drill bit in a drill and put a chamfer in the top of the fitting for the o-ring to seal in.

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