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Old 05-23-2012, 05:33 PM   #41
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Psneeld,

rwidman is a peice of work, not much work for sure.*
I suppose that I could waste time to locate the "several" times that he has taken issue with things that I have done on my boat. (Seems like all the time.) Note things that I have DONE, not speculate or the like , but what I have done and obviously worked. You know that stuff that one refers to as EXPERIENCE.

Actually, since he has taken such issue with you I now find it compelling to report the above as I did not want to get into the P___ing contest with him. His unnecessery criticism of your position was too much for me.
Speaking of placing someone on an Ignore list!


* I was going to say: Probably union made and hired without a drug screen, see another thread in one of the other forum lists but that would not have been very nice so I did not.
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Old 05-23-2012, 05:52 PM   #42
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Charles, I have never read the specs on "marine grade" accumulator tanks but I have installed plenty of the steel ones you have had in your boat for 29 years. I see nothing wrong with the use of them. Assuming of course it was installed on the dry side of the hull

I 'suspect' the only difference in the marine water heater besides the SS tank would be not using wire nuts for the internal electrical connections. That notwithstanding, common residential unit would work fine but may not pass muster with the insurance surveyor.

Did you replace the water heater due to a tank leak or because it quit making hot water? If a leak that would most likely be poor workmanship from the manufacturer or material defect. If because it simply stopped making hot water the problem was most likely elements burned out or thermostat failure. Either of which should have been easily repairable if diagnosed correctly.

I hope I'm not coming across as a wise @__, if so that's not intentional. I fail to see the importance of standards that the boat manufacturers tend to ignore. Many reputable name brand boats use approved parts in unapproved ways, but since the part was "rated" the installation standard was not inspected nor adhered to. Sea cocks are a great example.

As always, YMMV
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Old 05-23-2012, 08:19 PM   #43
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Charles, I have never read the specs on "marine grade" accumulator tanks but I have installed plenty of the steel ones you have had in your boat for 29 years. I see nothing wrong with the use of them. Assuming of course it was installed on the dry side of the hull

I 'suspect' the only difference in the marine water heater besides the SS tank would be not using wire nuts for the internal electrical connections. That notwithstanding, common residential unit would work fine but may not pass muster with the insurance surveyor.

Did you replace the water heater due to a tank leak or because it quit making hot water? If a leak that would most likely be poor workmanship from the manufacturer or material defect. If because it simply stopped making hot water the problem was most likely elements burned out or thermostat failure. Either of which should have been easily repairable if diagnosed correctly.

I hope I'm not coming across as a wise @__, if so that's not intentional. I fail to see the importance of standards that the boat manufacturers tend to ignore. Many reputable name brand boats use approved parts in unapproved ways, but since the part was "rated" the installation standard was not inspected nor adhered to. Sea cocks are a great example.

As always, YMMV
You aren't being a wisea** at all...in fact one of your posts I referred to as "a post by a grownup"....

and you are dead on with all the manufacturers and yards installing ball valves on thru hulls instead of real sea cocks...just spent today installing 4 new ones properly.... and am really glad that I filled in the other 5 holes where old ones came out but are no longer needed.

Believe me...where it counts I exceed ABYC or other standards by miles....
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Old 05-23-2012, 10:10 PM   #44
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CPS,
As I have said I had the boat for 25 yrs and the hot water tank simply began leaking and was not worth fixing, I had cleaned it of calcium deposits on sev occasions and even changed an element once so when the leak occured I float tested it.
At the time of replacement it was abt 20 yrs old, I got the boat in 1985 at 4 yrs old.

By the way, on a previous boat, installed when I got the boat was a household water heater 120 volt only and that boat passed two surveys without issue. Had some other issues debated ad nausium on this and other boat lists as being sooooo important and in neither survey were they even mentioned must less required to be changed.

I have delt with surveyors on my own account and for many clients, I did a lot of maritime work in 42 yrs of law practice, and they ALL have idiosyncracies about what they pass and dont pass. I am talking "real boats" not our toys.

A nice field trip for a number of members of this list and sev other boating lists would be to visit some offshore oilfield support vessels and see how they are built. ALL must pass rigerious USCG inspections, many are ABS, DNV or other rating society classed. I specify this class of vessel as that is primarily the type with which I dealt. Plus one of the biggest builders is right down the bayou from me
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Old 05-23-2012, 10:17 PM   #45
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I tried to add to my post but dont know if it took , anyway, some should go on board some of the shrimp boats that I have seen and been on. I am sure that other type fishing boats would be about the same. All that I can say is that I would not want to go out on them much less spend days at sea aboard. Some guys here would have a heart attack!
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Old 05-24-2012, 05:52 AM   #46
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Charles seems like we are in good company...fount this poll when surfing....
View Poll Results: Do you adhere to ABYC Standards when working on your boat?
Yes, always 10.87%
Sometimes 67.39%
Never 4.35%
Don’t know, don’t care 13.04%
I will after my insurance co. denies a claim because I didn't 6.52%
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Old 05-24-2012, 08:31 AM   #47
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PSN,
good pole. I fall into the do it in a workmanlike manner, period.
ON the 'marine" stuff issue, this yr in my rv we had one of those drinking water hoses fail,( white with the braid inside and visible) a relatively new one in a campground and this is the SECOND one to fail, and I have only had the trailer 2 yrs. HMMMMMM My SEARS BEST never failed and never gave a bad taste to the water.
May have to go back to SEARS.
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Old 05-24-2012, 09:22 AM   #48
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And what do you think many city water pressures are?

My experience is they range from 50 to over a 100...at least at times during the day. Many Boaters/RVers have experienced plumbing problems when hooked to shore water because of the sometimes high pressures. Many boats have the pressure regulator built into the city water inlet along with a check valve...but not all...including my boat.

Many experienced cruisers/RVers always recommend a sediment filter and pressure regulator when hooking up in unfamiliar areas because of the unknowns.
Why would anyone connect to shore water without a device that limits the pressure? They are less than $50. I think the one I sighted was $35. They have been around for 20+years or longer.

The comment I made had to do with the statement that the pressure from an on board pump was minuscule when compared to shore side water pressure. Using your figures of up to 100 PSI, pump pressure of 45-55 PSI is not minuscule. That is 50%. 50% is not minuscule unless one is talking to a politician about how much they are raising your taxes.
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Old 05-24-2012, 01:08 PM   #49
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Why would anyone connect to shore water without a device that limits the pressure? They are less than $50. I think the one I sighted was $35. They have been around for 20+years or longer.

The comment I made had to do with the statement that the pressure from an on board pump was minuscule when compared to shore side water pressure. Using your figures of up to 100 PSI, pump pressure of 45-55 PSI is not minuscule. That is 50%. 50% is not minuscule unless one is talking to a politician about how much they are raising your taxes.
Many boats and RVs come without them so newbies don't know any better...

50 psi versus 75-100???? Depends where the pressure is being applied...
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Old 05-24-2012, 01:12 PM   #50
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PSN,
good pole. I fall into the do it in a workmanlike manner, period.
ON the 'marine" stuff issue, this yr in my rv we had one of those drinking water hoses fail,( white with the braid inside and visible) a relatively new one in a campground and this is the SECOND one to fail, and I have only had the trailer 2 yrs. HMMMMMM My SEARS BEST never failed and never gave a bad taste to the water.
May have to go back to SEARS.
The USCG neither specifies hose type for fresh water systems (at least that I could find) and the fresh water system isn't even inspected on inspected vessels according to their checklist I sighted.

Even ABYC standards I don't think specify except that it be non-toxic, non-contaminating, taste-free, and FDA approved for drinking water...like our white dock hoses....
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Old 05-25-2012, 06:34 AM   #51
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Marine HW heaters are not ALL SS inside.

Many of the popular ones have aluminum tanks . others are simple steel, glass lined.

Sometimes "marine" means zero, in terms of quality ,compared to home Cheapo.

Best part of a good genuine marine HW heater (besides the coil to co generate ) is the over temp breaker.

If the unit is operated empty of water , the button will simply pop, a push resets , instead of a new $17.00 heating element.

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Old 05-25-2012, 10:25 AM   #52
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Depending upon application aluminum sounds like a poor choice for a "tank" material. Over temp breaker sounds like it would save many bad starts to a nice vacation weekend though.
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