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Old 03-29-2014, 11:17 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by Xsbank View Post
True about the bits but that's why God invented filters!
You will have connections past the filters. But why not eliminate the risk in the first place?
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Old 03-29-2014, 11:26 AM   #22
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Neither one of us ever gets seasick.

But good point Fred there must be 4 positions in 180 degrees. Probably w no de-tents so setting the handle in a half way point should be easy. Not good. Reaching blindly over a running engine could easily be folly.

Perhaps I should move the whole thing aft and assessable directly at the (smaller) aft hatch where I can see what I'm doing.
Eric,

The valve has 4 positions at 3, 6, 9 and 12 o'clock (full 360 degrees) and there are solid detents at each position. The valve also has a long stem and can be mounted so that the handle is actually in an adjacent space, stateroom, through the pilothouse floor etc. That way, the handle can be readily accessible to select tanks or shut off the fuel in an emergency without having to enter the engine room.

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Old 03-29-2014, 11:33 AM   #23
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I love it Larry,
It's getting better all the time. Put it in the head so I can sit there and contemplate what tank to choose .. Or up chuck. Oh I forgot I don't get seasick.

And the detent is very important.

I'm thinking I should post more of my problems here.
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Old 03-29-2014, 12:28 PM   #24
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Eric,

I just purchased a Groco FV-65038-A to replace a similar collection of fittings. It reduces the number of joints and controls both supply and return with a single handle. It has positions for Port - Both - Stbd - Off.


It is UL and USCG approved. The supply fittings are 1/2" NPT and the return are 3/8" NPT. You will probably need 1/2" to 3/8" reducer bushings on the supply side.

It looks like it might reduce the number of threaded connections in your installation by at least 8 if I am counting correctly.

Use of Parker street t's in the supply outlet and return inlet could save two more connections.



Or maybe a barbed "T" to combine the returns.



Just some ideas for you.

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Man Larry I like this valve . I have way to many valves on mine and they are scattered out everywhere and not labeled very well. I have a total of five tanks . When I get stumped I still have to call the PO . He is A nice guy and doesn't seem to mind . He has a Lord Nelson Tug now . Great valve and good info.
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Old 03-29-2014, 04:55 PM   #25
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Just make sure those valves are labeled well... I have seen them on lot's of boats and people have hooked some up to where the pointer is and some to where the handle is...probably not an issue for anyone and their boat...just when someone else needs to make the tank/feed swap.

As far as fuel connections past the manifold...there are 2 on my boat...one leaving the secondary filter and one entering the injector pump...while not the best resource to use...if you have to make repairs and don't have anything but tape...harly the end of the world if you are careful using the tape and in reality...there should only be 2 connections past the secondary fuel filter and many engines use flair fitting that require neither tape or dope (just for the reason stated).
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Old 03-30-2014, 12:58 AM   #26
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Just make sure those valves are labeled well... I have seen them on lot's of boats and people have hooked some up to where the pointer is and some to where the handle is...probably not an issue for anyone and their boat...just when someone else needs to make the tank/feed swap.
You are absolutely right about the confusion surrounding fuel selector handles. Some use the small cast pointer opposite the handle to indicate the selection while others use the handle itself to indicate the selection.

I will be using a handle and plate similar to this to eliminate any confusion regarding the selection.



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Old 03-30-2014, 07:15 AM   #27
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The first job some cruisers will do is to remove the fuel selector and filter bank from the engine room to an accessible location.

What sense does it make to have dual filters to switch to a fresh filter if the crudded unit is in the engine room , and you need to change it underway?

Same with house and start batts , out of the ER may double their longevity.

Boat assemblers want to get the boat paid for with the least amount of cost and effort to themselves.

So changes are frequently required to actually cruise.
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Old 10-31-2023, 02:20 PM   #28
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Picking up what looks to be a really old thread, but the only one I could find.
Fuel transfer manifolds. If I can find a hard way to do something, I will.
So really keen to hear if anyone is able to show their manifold design and the way it works. I’ve got 4 tanks, and would love to streamline the process of fuel transfer.
Tried looking up the Groco link, but no longer available.
Thx in advance. Alan
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Old 10-31-2023, 04:16 PM   #29
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Alan
When replacing my tanks I used 1/3 of the side tanks to become day tanks, 385 litres each/ So I ended up with 6 tanks. The only way fuel can get into a day tank is via the polisher. The custom manifolds mean that I can run from any tank and return to any tank. Polisher likewise. The system has served me well.
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Fuel polish 3.jpg   Fuel polish.jpg  
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Old 10-31-2023, 05:33 PM   #30
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That looks very nice. Could I trouble you for a rough schematic of the system?
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Old 10-31-2023, 07:38 PM   #31
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Attached is the fuel tank diagram, which is the only schematic that I have. Basically there are flexible fuel hoses from the tank fittings to the manifolds in the pics above.

To install something similar to mine would need dual fuel pickups and returns. It might be possible to install "y" pieces if you only have single pickup/return per tank. I'm not sure whether those would need to valves to prevent unintended flows.
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File Type: pdf 12 FUEL TANK DIAGRAM.pdf (127.2 KB, 10 views)
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Old 10-31-2023, 10:13 PM   #32
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If you can live without ability to polish/transfer while underway, the standard single pickups (fuel and return) can be used and requires only a single manifold per engine.

This one would be better served with small t-handles, but you get the idea.

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