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Old 11-04-2013, 03:31 PM   #21
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If you need to enlarge or heat up the hose to get it onto a barbed fitting, another option is using a tailpipe or expander.

HD Small Pipe Expander 1-1/8" to 1-3/4" Muffler/Exhaust Reshape Tool Repair Shop Enlarger - Amazon.com
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Old 11-04-2013, 04:23 PM   #22
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depends on what you are using it on...cheap plastic fitting...who cares????

metal fittng...use some heat

last resort there is a 5200 release agent.

5200 isn't the devil's potion if you know how t deal with it...

Yes once I learned a few tricks 5200 is easy to deal with
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Old 11-04-2013, 05:26 PM   #23
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Yes once I learned a few tricks 5200 is easy to deal with
the devil made you do it!!!!
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Old 11-04-2013, 06:18 PM   #24
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Hop car that is a great idea. I unfortunately already installed a toggle. Don't think I will use this option very often, nice to know its there.
Tom.B. as Hmason stated the use of cork plugs to stretch out a hose, you could also use plugs to stop up your hoses. Fortunately this is a whole new system which I finally got leak free today using water as my test fluid. Could have been so much worse.
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Old 11-04-2013, 06:45 PM   #25
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Thought I could smell something coming from the boat next door, even has the same name !!!
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Old 11-04-2013, 07:12 PM   #26
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If you need to enlarge or heat up the hose to get it onto a barbed fitting, another option is using a tailpipe or expander.
This sounds like a very good idea!

Anyone use one of these? Under $20 is well worth it if I can avoid several hours of swearing every time I need to fit these 1-1/2" hoses.
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Old 11-04-2013, 07:22 PM   #27
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I have, I put in boiling water and used a tailpipe expander, it broke the wire in the hose. May have cranked it too hard. They work great on unwired hose. $5.99 at that Chinese tool supply.
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Old 11-04-2013, 07:24 PM   #28
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Gerald, you dog. Thanks for the help today. Let me school you in SUP tomorrow.
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Old 11-04-2013, 08:37 PM   #29
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I would look to install a pair of unions before the macerator pump. In some places, even a key lock will not pass the inspection. Lake Champlain for example.
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Old 11-04-2013, 08:50 PM   #30
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I would look to install a pair of unions before the macerator pump. In some places, even a key lock will not pass the inspection. Lake Champlain for example.
I'd be interested in who the LEOs are that don't approve of it. At least several boat makers aren't even installing seacocks that can be secured...just buttons and key locks outside of the head. It's supposed to meet the USCG Comandant's clarification letter of a few years back.
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Old 11-04-2013, 08:52 PM   #31
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I installed a ball valve at the bottom of the tank before the macerator. It has a latch for a padlock. Two heads, no y-valves, just dump from the tank. We will be in Florida for several years. Maybe a three or four day anchorage along the way. Plus we have one operational Raritan with many spare parts. Also a locking through hull. I know people go years without getting inspected. I'm sure they will visit me as soon as I reach Mobile Bay.
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Old 11-04-2013, 10:44 PM   #32
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Boy do I feel lucky not needing to deal with the chit nazi's..

I have never had anyone ever ask after we were North of California.

The Pacific Northwest must be a great place... no crap cops and beautiful views!

HOLLYWOOD
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Old 11-05-2013, 01:51 AM   #33
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Just noodle over to Juan De Fuca Strait and fire away - it will mix with the poop from Victoria and nobody will notice! J.DF. Strait is paved with corn.
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Old 11-05-2013, 07:50 AM   #34
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Our method has survived both CN and FL inspections.

The holding tank is connected directly to a Y at the deck pump out fitting.

A Y not a Y valve , the other side of the Y is connected to the overboard pump.

With the deck cap OUT ,and in a drawer , waste pumping is impossible .

Should the pump be unhappy to prime after long non use , simply pouring sea water into the deck fitting wets and primes the pump, so with the cap installed it works.

No valves . no hassles , KISS!
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Old 11-05-2013, 03:18 PM   #35
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...The holding tank is connected directly to a Y at the deck pump out fitting...No valves . no hassles , KISS!
Re-doing my aft head, I'm thinking along those same lines. Mine will be a "T" not a "Y" though.

I'm thinking of mounting the macerator on top of the tank, and using solid PVC pipe up to the T from the bottom fitting of the tank. At that point flexible hose will go up to the deck pump-out from one side of the T and over to the macerator from the other. The PVC will be permanent; I'll never have to replace anything below the "waterline" of the contents of the tank.
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Old 11-05-2013, 05:05 PM   #36
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I don't think I get this, Fred. You go around all the time with the cap off of your deck cap out of your pump out fitting?
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Old 11-05-2013, 05:17 PM   #37
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It is seldom possible to make a loose hose seal on an undersized barb by cranking down on the hose-clamp. Filling the gap with goop rarely works and you often live to regret it.

If all else fails, it is possible to increase the diameter of a hose barb using epoxy-soaked fiberglass tape like a bandage. Make sure the barb is squeaky clean, pull the tape firmly and paint on the epoxy as you wrap. Sand high spots/hairs when dry and paint on a final coat of epoxy to give a smooth finish. Tedious - yes, but it works and you know its a good solid job that you can take apart later without trouble.
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Old 11-05-2013, 05:46 PM   #38
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"If all else fails, it is possible to increase the diameter of a hose barb using epoxy-soaked fiberglass tape like a bandage."

Nice! I'll add that to my bag of tricks.

I've tried various adhesive tapes. It's hard to get the hose on over the tape without pulling the tape out of place. Not a good solution.

I wonder if self amalgamating (spelling?) tape could be used the same way as the epoxy/fiberglass?
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Old 11-05-2013, 06:08 PM   #39
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Re-doing my aft head, I'm thinking along those same lines. Mine will be a "T" not a "Y" though.

I'm thinking of mounting the macerator on top of the tank, and using solid PVC pipe up to the T from the bottom fitting of the tank. At that point flexible hose will go up to the deck pump-out from one side of the T and over to the macerator from the other. The PVC will be permanent; I'll never have to replace anything below the "waterline" of the contents of the tank.
I have, on several boats, eliminated the need for a macerator pump by using a "Y" valve. Port one connected to a thruhull with an aft facing scoop over it. Port two connected to the head. Port three connected to the lower tapping on the holding tank. If the "Y" valve has a stop on it (stopping the handle from going completely around) it needs to be filed off. Then the valve has three positions: 1 head to thruhull. 2 head to tank. 3 Tank to thruhull. The forward motion of the boat will empty the tank. This will even work on a sailboat if the tank is above the W/L. The dockside pumpout can be connected to a second lower tapping on the tank. I have a drawing but it won't load.
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Old 11-06-2013, 06:33 AM   #40
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I don't think I get this, Fred. You go around all the time with the cap off of your deck cap out of your pump out fitting?
Sure! no smell and I dont fall into a 1 1/2 deck fitting .

If a few drops of rain get in , it doesnt change the pump out time a bit.

A second cap drilled could be installed , but we dont visit Sewanaka YC or Ida Lewis YC very often.
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