Concrete as ballast in bilge?

[rsn48]

I am a model railroader and railfan. I keep wondering if you can purchase older steel track. I think you will be surprised at how heavy they can be, particularly more modern steel track. This from a link I checked out "The weights of the rails vary from 80 to 160 pounds (36 to 73 kilograms) per yard depending upon the type of train operating on the tracks and the country."

 

[markpierce]

My previous sailboat, a Blue Water Blackwatch cutter, had sand as ballast. Worked well, but stability was mostly based on an 8-foot beam with a short waterline.

 

[markpierce]

I am a model railroader and railfan. I keep wondering if you can purchase older steel track. I think you will be surprised at how heavy they can be, particularly more modern steel track. This from a link I checked out "The weights of the rails vary from 80 to 160 pounds (36 to 73 kilograms) per yard depending upon the type of train operating on the tracks and the country."

Even code 100 rail won't do it.

 

[Nomad Willy]

“do it” ?

 

[LeoKa]

LeoKa,
Boats are designed to float “on their lines” and thus to be in trim..

Thanks Willy. Now I understand it much better. Yes, I need to be careful with the weights.
Today I was tearing up more floor sections to see how much rust has developed from the water damage I had couple months ago. I could see the midsection bilge area and metal bricks all along. It seems that the bow section and the midsection has these put in there. There is tart paper between the metal brick and the bilge. I suspect the midsection has steel bricks, but the bow has leads. Those are smaller. The steel bricks about 2 feet long.
So weight was added, but it was not enough. Thus the air tank at aft was added too, to help the buoyancy.
I came to the conclusion that my best bet will be to add steel to the keel at midsection. Instead of welding, drilling holes into the keel and mounting the steel can be the easiest way.
This is the lowest point of the boat, so it should help. In my estimation 1-2000 pounds could be the max. Making the steel bar too thick is not a good idea. It will stick out and generate drag. Whatever will fit inside the I-beam keel, should be the least interfering ballast.
What do you think?