Cleaning Tank Watch Sensors

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Ron Walton

Ron Walton

Member
Joined
Jun 25, 2008
Messages
8
I have a four sensor Tank Watch system on my holding tank. One of the sensors needs cleaning. I have easy access to top the tank where the sensors are mounted. I would appreciate detailed instructions so that I can avoid my usual breaking more than I fix. i.e. can individual tubes be pulled out or should the entire apparatus be removed? Thanks

Ron Walton
River Girl
currently Charleston, SC
 
I also have a Tank Watch 4 that recently will only indicate an empty tank (only the first light will light up) even when the tank is getting full or is full. Wondering whether its the sensors or something else. The sensor ends seem to slide up and down okay. Do these units require sensor cleaning?
 
I understand that it is common for crud to stck to the bottom of the sensors and must be**cleaned. In my case it is only the second stage ( yellow ) that is not working>
 
Ron Walton wrote:

I understand that it is common for crud to stck to the bottom of the sensors and must be**cleaned. In my case it is only the second stage ( yellow ) that is not working>
Click to expand...
Mine started out with first the last stage not working, then the third stage, then the second and now only the first is working.

*
 
fairly easy, unscrew the top of the unit and the probes attached to it will remove. You just have to scrape the crystalized urine etc from the shaft of the probes so the sensors can move up or down as needed.

wear gloves :)
 
bshanafelt wrote:

fairly easy, unscrew the top of the unit and the probes attached to it will remove. You just have to scrape the crystalized urine etc from the shaft of the probes so the sensors can move up or down as needed.

wear gloves :)
Click to expand...
Hmm. The sensors on mine seem to move up and down freely. Must be something else then. What now.

*
 
Thanks.* Each individual prob has a cap and a screw on top and all are attached to a a larger screw on top. I assume* that the larger top with all the probs attached should be unscrewed? Should the electrical wires be disconnected first?
 
Jusrt seen this thread. I, too, have 2 of the 3 lights not working on my tank watch. Seems like a common problem. I intend to take the top off, clean everything, and see if that makes a difference. If not, a call to the manufacturers seems in order.
 
Piers wrote:

Jusrt seen this thread. I, too, have 2 of the 3 lights not working on my tank watch. Seems like a common problem. I intend to take the top off, clean everything, and see if that makes a difference. If not, a call to the manufacturers seems in order.
Click to expand...
I emailed the manufacturer and never received a reply. Too cold around here now to fool with it anymore until spring.

*
 
I pulled the top off my holding tank and cleaned the probes. (3) It worked great for awhile but it didn't last long. I have the same old problem again. Not a very good product.
no.gif
(for holding tanks)


-- Edited by SeaHorse II on Thursday 17th of December 2009 11:50:16 PM
 
Better late than never but I installed a boat trailer wiring plug to mine so I can get it out to clean without twisting the tiny wires in two.
 
Well, we bit the $$ bullet and just put in a new replacement probe unit. Couldn't deal with trying to clean up, reinstall, test, then perhaps remove, reclean and retest the old probe unit. New one seems to work at different level of fullness but that is subject to a full season of being filled up with sh$t.

I followed the installation instructions and connected the wires with spade disconnects. The PO had not done this and the wires were all completely atwist.

I would opt for a different unit if I had the initial choice, but will try this one awhile longer.
 
I pulled and cleaned my probes about two years ago and the Tank Watch worked fine, for about a month! let us know how you make out, Dave.
 
Reading this thread confirms the simplicity of holding a flashlight on top of the holding tank in order to gauge fluid level.

This obviously requires some degree of access, but if you have it, it works well.

In practice, I wait about 5 days after a pump-out before I start checking. We can usually go 7-8 days before needing a pump-out depending on the number of people onboard. In most cases, we find a pump-out location every 5 days or so, so checking is actually fairly infrequent.
 
Jay N wrote:

Reading this thread confirms the simplicity of holding a flashlight on top of the holding tank in order to gauge fluid level.
________________________________________
Or.....you have a collapsible bladder type, (well cocooned in carpet, I might add), which you can just glance at and tell where it's at in terms of fill.
It was all I could fit in, but it does have a certain low-tech edge in same ways, does it not?* Also won't collapse if the vent is blocked when pumped out - well it does collapse, but it's meant to.* Another low tech advantage, I guess.
Click to expand...

*
 
Hi Peggy.

Would like to inquire what your "Favorite" EL Cheepo head is.

I love the Lavac but am wondering which of the manual $150 or so units gets your nod.




-- Edited by FF on Friday 19th of March 2010 04:42:05 PM
 
I can't recommend any of the < $200 manual toilets, Fred. .. But since Thetford-Norcold discontinued the entire Wilcox-Crittenden
line, there are actually only two now anyway--the Jabsco and the Groco HF.

The only manual toilets < $500 that are worth anything are the Lavac and the Raritan PH II/PHC...the PHC is compact version of the PH II...uses the same pump, but on a compact base and with a shorter handle to fit in a tighter space.* The PHII and PHC are now available as a "conversion" (everything but the bowl, seat and lid) for <$250...check that out here: sbo.com PHII PHC LBA

Among electric all china "thrones," I've become really impressed with Raritan's new "Marine Elegance"...y'all might want to check that out too...on the Raritan website here: Raritan Elegance toilet Not quite as pricy as the Atlantes or the Tecma and a bit smaller.
 
Peggy ,

That's a GREAT idea , its all the plastic crap that goes , not the china bowl.

We do have an old W-C kicking around , may see if I can still get the kit for it and stretch out another few years.

On our 90 /90 I created (OK Copied) what I believe is the greatest marine head in existance .

The concept from the Lavac was stolen and used , but being too lazy to create my own air tight lid and seat , a varnished bowl seal is used.

The bowl is Monel from a WWII troop ship with 3 inch discharge ,
It is mounted on a brass sweep from a Jett head where is is reduced to 2 inch.

Since the sweep is at the bottom of the bowl anything over 2 inch diameter is trapped there.

An Edison Bronze off set bilge pump completes the setup.
Water intake 1 -1/4, discharge 2 inches.

On bets I have pumped golf balls and ties and even belts with the buckle on into Davy Jones superstore.

The downside is a holding tank doesn't hold many flushes.

FF
 
BTW, welcome to the forum Peggie! Haven't seen you around for awhile. Glad to see you here!
 
Peggy:

Being somewhat technically challenged, (Me , not you..) I want to be clear on one point.* Replacing the sensors with the Profile system does not require new wire runs as the old wiring will work. I assume that replacing the old panel (which* is in the head) with the new Profile panel is simply a matter of mounting the new panel and connecting the appropriate old wires. Am I correct?

BTW,* We are lucky to have you in this forum.

-- Edited by SeaHorse II on Sunday 21st of March 2010 09:48:50 AM
 
You are correct. If you have any problems or questions, call or email Dennis Ferriello: dennis@ferriellosales.com or by phone at (435) 656-0042. He's the only person I know who'll answer the phone at 7pm on a Sunday to help somebody with an installation problems.

And thank you for the kind words!


-- Edited by HeadMistress on Sunday 21st of March 2010 06:47:28 PM
 
Peggie:
You are correct, use of the existing wires is fine. Our system is low voltage 0-5 volts and our panel will read most senders on the market that either use 0-5 volts or 240-30 or 30-240 Ohms and also the long read senders on the market.
If I can be of help please let me know

Dennis
dennis@ferriellosales.com
 
HeadMistress wrote:
My advice: replace the senders with the Profile system....senders never come in contact with tank contents. The existing wiring will work, so you only need to replace the senders and the panel...easy job. You can read all about 'em on these websites: http://ferriellosales.com/ http://www.newprovidencemarine.com/product.html
Click to expand...
*I took your advise and* replaced my holding tank sensors (today!) with the Profile Solo. After pumping the head and setting the "Empty" light, I then filled the tank with water and set the "Full" light. I then pumped out the tank in 20 second bursts, checking the panel lights after each burst. Results? The Full, 3/4, 1/2, 1/4 and empty lights lit as expected. What a great system!!! (And yes, the existing wiring worked like a charm.)

:worship:
 
Here's what the profile looks like installed.
 

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Good to see you got it installed, Walt. It IS a great system! Mine have been accurate and trouble free since I installed them in July.
 
FlyWright wrote:
Good to see you got it installed, Walt.
Click to expand...
******* Al:

Of course you would say that as by innuendo and subtlety, you pushed me into it! :shh:

BTW, I really enjoyed your visit & hope we can do it again . Maybe next time you won't be so critical of my boat? :spin:


*psst.....FlyWright & dwhatty....you invite them for a visit and they spend their time on their hands and knees, in your engine room looking for f---U-s!



-- Edited by SeaHorse II on Friday 14th of October 2011 02:12:16 PM
 
SeaHorse II wrote:FlyWright wrote:
Good to see you got it installed, Walt.
Click to expand...
******* Al:

Of course you would say that as by innuendo and subtlety, you pushed me into it! :shh:

BTW, I really enjoyed your visit & hope we can do it again . Maybe next time you won't be so critical of my boat? :spin:


*psst.....FlyWright & dwhatty....you invite them for a visit and they spend their time on their hands and knees, in your engine room looking for f---U-s!




-- Edited by SeaHorse II on Friday 14th of October 2011 02:12:16 PM

*I didn't see any f...u.s......in the engine room.
smile.gif
 
I know you're kidding...there's nothing not to like on your boat, except for losing your FB on that low bridge. Other than that, it's great.

Like you, I buy these parts then contemplate the installation until I think I have it all figured out. Then when I start the job, something breaks or I find another issue and it's on to plan B. But I sure do love tinkering on my boat!

I'll let you know when I'm headed that way next. I enjoyed our time on the boat and the great dinner.
 
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