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Old 11-17-2009, 03:07 PM   #1
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Cleaning Tank Watch Sensors

I have a four sensor Tank Watch system on my holding tank. One of the sensors needs cleaning. I have easy access to top the tank where the sensors are mounted. I would appreciate detailed instructions so that I can avoid my usual breaking more than I fix. i.e. can individual tubes be pulled out or should the entire apparatus be removed? Thanks

Ron Walton
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Old 11-17-2009, 03:47 PM   #2
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RE: Cleaning Tank Watch Sensors

I also have a Tank Watch 4 that recently will only indicate an empty tank (only the first light will light up) even when the tank is getting full or is full. Wondering whether its the sensors or something else. The sensor ends seem to slide up and down okay. Do these units require sensor cleaning?
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Old 11-17-2009, 04:43 PM   #3
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RE: Cleaning Tank Watch Sensors

I understand that it is common for crud to stck to the bottom of the sensors and must be**cleaned. In my case it is only the second stage ( yellow ) that is not working>
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Old 11-17-2009, 05:30 PM   #4
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RE: Cleaning Tank Watch Sensors

Quote:
Ron Walton wrote:

I understand that it is common for crud to stck to the bottom of the sensors and must be**cleaned. In my case it is only the second stage ( yellow ) that is not working>
Mine started out with first the last stage not working, then the third stage, then the second and now only the first is working.

*
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Old 11-18-2009, 08:44 AM   #5
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Cleaning Tank Watch Sensors

Ron:

Don't know if this product is any good or not but advertises as also cleaning sensors:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...7304&viewitem=

Also, see this article:

http://www.rverscorner.com/Holding_Tank.html

I may try this, or something like it, next season. If it works, great. If not, back to the head scratching.

-- Edited by dwhatty on Wednesday 18th of November 2009 09:47:12 AM
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Old 11-18-2009, 11:42 AM   #6
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RE: Cleaning Tank Watch Sensors

fairly easy, unscrew the top of the unit and the probes attached to it will remove. You just have to scrape the crystalized urine etc from the shaft of the probes so the sensors can move up or down as needed.

wear gloves
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Old 11-18-2009, 01:04 PM   #7
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RE: Cleaning Tank Watch Sensors

Quote:
bshanafelt wrote:

fairly easy, unscrew the top of the unit and the probes attached to it will remove. You just have to scrape the crystalized urine etc from the shaft of the probes so the sensors can move up or down as needed.

wear gloves
Hmm. The sensors on mine seem to move up and down freely. Must be something else then. What now.

*
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Old 11-18-2009, 01:16 PM   #8
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RE: Cleaning Tank Watch Sensors

Thanks.* Each individual prob has a cap and a screw on top and all are attached to a a larger screw on top. I assume* that the larger top with all the probs attached should be unscrewed? Should the electrical wires be disconnected first?
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Old 12-17-2009, 09:38 AM   #9
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RE: Cleaning Tank Watch Sensors

Jusrt seen this thread. I, too, have 2 of the 3 lights not working on my tank watch. Seems like a common problem. I intend to take the top off, clean everything, and see if that makes a difference. If not, a call to the manufacturers seems in order.
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Old 12-17-2009, 09:51 AM   #10
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RE: Cleaning Tank Watch Sensors

Quote:
Piers wrote:

Jusrt seen this thread. I, too, have 2 of the 3 lights not working on my tank watch. Seems like a common problem. I intend to take the top off, clean everything, and see if that makes a difference. If not, a call to the manufacturers seems in order.
I emailed the manufacturer and never received a reply. Too cold around here now to fool with it anymore until spring.

*
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Old 12-17-2009, 10:47 PM   #11
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Cleaning Tank Watch Sensors

I pulled the top off my holding tank and cleaned the probes. (3) It worked great for awhile but it didn't last long. I have the same old problem again. Not a very good product. (for holding tanks)


-- Edited by SeaHorse II on Thursday 17th of December 2009 11:50:16 PM
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Old 03-12-2010, 03:26 PM   #12
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RE: Cleaning Tank Watch Sensors

Better late than never but I installed a boat trailer wiring plug to mine so I can get it out to clean without twisting the tiny wires in two.
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Old 03-12-2010, 04:05 PM   #13
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RE: Cleaning Tank Watch Sensors

Well, we bit the $$ bullet and just put in a new replacement probe unit. Couldn't deal with trying to clean up, reinstall, test, then perhaps remove, reclean and retest the old probe unit. New one seems to work at different level of fullness but that is subject to a full season of being filled up with sh$t.

I followed the installation instructions and connected the wires with spade disconnects. The PO had not done this and the wires were all completely atwist.

I would opt for a different unit if I had the initial choice, but will try this one awhile longer.
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Old 03-12-2010, 10:01 PM   #14
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RE: Cleaning Tank Watch Sensors

I pulled and cleaned my probes about two years ago and the Tank Watch worked fine, for about a month! let us know how you make out, Dave.
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Old 03-14-2010, 08:00 PM   #15
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RE: Cleaning Tank Watch Sensors

Reading this thread confirms the simplicity of holding a flashlight on top of the holding tank in order to gauge fluid level.

This obviously requires some degree of access, but if you have it, it works well.

In practice, I wait about 5 days after a pump-out before I start checking. We can usually go 7-8 days before needing a pump-out depending on the number of people onboard. In most cases, we find a pump-out location every 5 days or so, so checking is actually fairly infrequent.
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Old 03-15-2010, 05:12 AM   #16
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RE: Cleaning Tank Watch Sensors

Quote:
Jay N wrote:

Reading this thread confirms the simplicity of holding a flashlight on top of the holding tank in order to gauge fluid level.
________________________________________
Or.....you have a collapsible bladder type, (well cocooned in carpet, I might add), which you can just glance at and tell where it's at in terms of fill.
It was all I could fit in, but it does have a certain low-tech edge in same ways, does it not?* Also won't collapse if the vent is blocked when pumped out - well it does collapse, but it's meant to.* Another low tech advantage, I guess.
*
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Old 03-19-2010, 12:15 PM   #17
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RE: Cleaning Tank Watch Sensors

My advice: replace the senders with the Profile system....senders never come in contact with tank contents. The existing wiring will work, so you only need to replace the senders and the panel...easy job.

You can read all about 'em on these websites:

http://ferriellosales.com/

http://www.newprovidencemarine.com/product.html
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Old 03-19-2010, 04:41 PM   #18
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Cleaning Tank Watch Sensors

Hi Peggy.

Would like to inquire what your "Favorite" EL Cheepo head is.

I love the Lavac but am wondering which of the manual $150 or so units gets your nod.




-- Edited by FF on Friday 19th of March 2010 04:42:05 PM
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Old 03-20-2010, 11:47 PM   #19
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RE: Cleaning Tank Watch Sensors

I can't recommend any of the < $200 manual toilets, Fred. .. But since Thetford-Norcold discontinued the entire Wilcox-Crittenden
line, there are actually only two now anyway--the Jabsco and the Groco HF.

The only manual toilets < $500 that are worth anything are the Lavac and the Raritan PH II/PHC...the PHC is compact version of the PH II...uses the same pump, but on a compact base and with a shorter handle to fit in a tighter space.* The PHII and PHC are now available as a "conversion" (everything but the bowl, seat and lid) for <$250...check that out here: sbo.com PHII PHC LBA

Among electric all china "thrones," I've become really impressed with Raritan's new "Marine Elegance"...y'all might want to check that out too...on the Raritan website here: Raritan Elegance toilet Not quite as pricy as the Atlantes or the Tecma and a bit smaller.
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Old 03-21-2010, 03:47 AM   #20
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RE: Cleaning Tank Watch Sensors

Peggy ,

That's a GREAT idea , its all the plastic crap that goes , not the china bowl.

We do have an old W-C kicking around , may see if I can still get the kit for it and stretch out another few years.

On our 90 /90 I created (OK Copied) what I believe is the greatest marine head in existance .

The concept from the Lavac was stolen and used , but being too lazy to create my own air tight lid and seat , a varnished bowl seal is used.

The bowl is Monel from a WWII troop ship with 3 inch discharge ,
It is mounted on a brass sweep from a Jett head where is is reduced to 2 inch.

Since the sweep is at the bottom of the bowl anything over 2 inch diameter is trapped there.

An Edison Bronze off set bilge pump completes the setup.
Water intake 1 -1/4, discharge 2 inches.

On bets I have pumped golf balls and ties and even belts with the buckle on into Davy Jones superstore.

The downside is a holding tank doesn't hold many flushes.

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