Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 10-01-2018, 02:02 PM   #1
Guru
 
dhays's Avatar
 
City: Gig Harbor
Vessel Name: Kinship
Vessel Model: North Pacific 43
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 9,046
Cap for a Tank watch holding tank monitor.

I am going to be replacing my holding tank monitor and I currently have a Tank watch 4. I want to remove the sensors, replace the cap with a blank cap, and them eventually cut a hole in that to install a dyi aeration system. Anyone know where to get a blank cap? Is it a typical 3" ismpection port thread? It needs to seal completely.
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_20180930_141256736.jpeg
Views:	112
Size:	48.2 KB
ID:	81398
__________________
Regards,

Dave
SPOT page
dhays is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-01-2018, 06:08 PM   #2
Guru
 
fryedaze's Avatar
 
City: Solomons Island Md
Vessel Name: Fryedaze
Vessel Model: MC 42 (Overseas Co) Monk 42
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,720
Quote:
Originally Posted by dhays View Post
I am going to be replacing my holding tank monitor and I currently have a Tank watch 4. I want to remove the sensors, replace the cap with a blank cap, and them eventually cut a hole in that to install a dyi aeration system. Anyone know where to get a blank cap? Is it a typical 3" ismpection port thread? It needs to seal completely.
Attachment 81398


The sensors are just hollow plastic tubes. Why not just leave as is and use the “empty” sensor as the air tube.
__________________
Dave Frye
Fryedaze, MC 42 (Monk 42') 1989 Overseas Co
https://mvfryedaze.blogspot.com/
fryedaze is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-01-2018, 06:17 PM   #3
Guru
 
dhays's Avatar
 
City: Gig Harbor
Vessel Name: Kinship
Vessel Model: North Pacific 43
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 9,046
Quote:
Originally Posted by fryedaze View Post
The sensors are just hollow plastic tubes. Why not just leave as is and use the “empty” sensor as the air tube.

I thought about it and that might be the best way to go. The sensor tubes look to be 1/2" OD polystyrene and are pretty thin-walled. I would want to be able to put a T at the bottom to spread the area that the bubbles would be exiting. I'm not terribly familiar with plastic pipe so don't know if there are T fittings that would cement to the polystyrene. I also would want to cap off the other two holes where the sensors are located. Not sure how I would do that. That might be as simple as cutting the sensor tubes off just below the cap. However, I was thinking that it would be just easier to start with a blank cap.
__________________
Regards,

Dave
SPOT page
dhays is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-01-2018, 06:44 PM   #4
Guru
 
HeadMistress's Avatar


 
City: AR
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 2,514
That cap is a 3" inspection port, Dave...and it would be a LOT easier to start with a "clean" cap. You may be able to buy just a cap and rubber o-ring (The Tankwatch has one, but for $3 or so that a rubber o-ring costs, I start with a new one 'cuz they do dry out. Check the Beckson site.



And now you're gonna need a new tank level indicator too. The Profile "solo" is inexpensive and can use the TW4 wiring. Profile Tank Monitors



--Peggie
__________________
© 2024 Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since '87.
Author "The NEW Get Rid of Boat Odors"
HeadMistress is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-01-2018, 07:12 PM   #5
Guru
 
kchace's Avatar
 
City: Brookline, NH
Vessel Name: Shalloway
Vessel Model: Defever 44, twin Perkins
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 2,259
Wow, I was going to ask the exact same question as the OP. I have installed a Profile monitor and love it but want to get rid of the old Tankwatch assembly and feel comfortable about opening and cleaning the tank. I have looked everywhere I can think of including the Beckson site but to no avail.

Ken
kchace is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-01-2018, 07:15 PM   #6
Moderator Emeritus
 
dwhatty's Avatar
 
City: Home Port: Buck's Harbor, Maine
Vessel Name: "Emily Anne"
Vessel Model: 2001 Island Gypsy 32 Europa (Hull #146)
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 2,846
Quote:
Originally Posted by HeadMistress View Post
And now you're gonna need a new tank level indicator too. The Profile "solo" is inexpensive and can use the TW4 wiring. Profile Tank Monitors--Peggie

And the Solo is trouble and maintenance free. (From a happy Solo owner, formerly unhappy Tank Watch owner).
__________________
David Hawkins
Deer Isle, Maine
dwhatty is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-01-2018, 07:20 PM   #7
Guru
 
rochepoint's Avatar
 
City: Sidney BC Canada
Vessel Name: RochePoint
Vessel Model: 1985 Cheer Men PT38 Sedan
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 1,744
Dave maybe this is what you want, right in Seattle at Marinesan.....
__________________
Cheers
Mike
MV RochePoint
rochepoint is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-01-2018, 07:40 PM   #8
Guru
 
dhays's Avatar
 
City: Gig Harbor
Vessel Name: Kinship
Vessel Model: North Pacific 43
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 9,046
Quote:
Originally Posted by HeadMistress View Post
That cap is a 3" inspection port, Dave...and it would be a LOT easier to start with a "clean" cap. You may be able to buy just a cap and rubber o-ring (The Tankwatch has one, but for $3 or so that a rubber o-ring costs, I start with a new one 'cuz they do dry out. Check the Beckson site.

And now you're gonna need a new tank level indicator too. The Profile "solo" is inexpensive and can use the TW4 wiring. Profile Tank Monitors

Thanks Peggie. I couldn't find any info on the Tankwatch site on the cap, so you confirmed my suspicion.



And yes, my plan is to install a Profile Solo with the external sensor. I think that it will work with my FRP tank. First step is to install the Profile tank monitor, and seal up the TankWatch sensor opening with hopefully a new cap. Next step is to re-route my vent line a bit as it has one low spot. Then I want to create an aeration system.
__________________
Regards,

Dave
SPOT page
dhays is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-01-2018, 07:41 PM   #9
Guru
 
dhays's Avatar
 
City: Gig Harbor
Vessel Name: Kinship
Vessel Model: North Pacific 43
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 9,046
Quote:
Originally Posted by rochepoint View Post
Dave maybe this is what you want, right in Seattle at Marinesan.....

That is exactly what I want. Thanks!
__________________
Regards,

Dave
SPOT page
dhays is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-02-2018, 07:39 PM   #10
Guru
 
kchace's Avatar
 
City: Brookline, NH
Vessel Name: Shalloway
Vessel Model: Defever 44, twin Perkins
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 2,259
Quote:
Originally Posted by rochepoint View Post
Dave maybe this is what you want, right in Seattle at Marinesan.....
That should do it. Thanks.

Ken
kchace is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-05-2018, 03:18 PM   #11
Guru
 
dhays's Avatar
 
City: Gig Harbor
Vessel Name: Kinship
Vessel Model: North Pacific 43
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 9,046
I have another question for the TF brain trust.

When you look at the Grocco Sweetank system, they use a length of tubing with a bunch of holes in it to create the bubbles which oxygenate the holding tank. Most of the DIY systems seem to mimic that.

However, when I look at live bait aerators, they typically use 1 or 2 bubble emitters, so that all the bubbles are concentrated in one location. Those fish seem to survive just fine.

So I’m wondering if a very simple system where the bubbles are created in a small area of the holding tank would be sufficient? It would sure be easier to make and, more important, easier to remove and maintain than another configuration. Granted, I don’t have a bunch of fish swimming around in my holding tank to mix up the water, but at least while the the boat is moving, there is going to be a lot of motion of the fluids in the holding tank. In addition, any time the head is flushed, the tank contents will be agitated to a certain extent.

So, any thoughts? I’m currently thinking of a downpipe with a small T at the bottom with two short horizontal pipes with small holes drilled in the bottom side. The idea is to make it so that the T could be lifted out of the 3” inspection port. So each leg of the T would be about 2 1/4” long.
__________________
Regards,

Dave
SPOT page
dhays is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-07-2018, 08:20 PM   #12
Guru
 
dhays's Avatar
 
City: Gig Harbor
Vessel Name: Kinship
Vessel Model: North Pacific 43
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 9,046
OK, no opinions on the holes so I don’t think it matters. I picked up a bubbler from Cabela’s yesterday, Power Bubbles 12v Air Pump by Marine Metal Products. It is designed to to be used in live bait tanks. It has two air outputs that can be T’d together if you are only using 1 tank. They claim it will keep fish alive in a 35g bait tank. I figure it will keep aerobic bacteria alive in my 50g black water tank.

I spent a couple hours at Home Depot trying to figure out the appropriate adapters etc.. to connect the 1/8” ID air hose to the 3” cap pictured earlier and to some CPVC 1/2” pipe. I got a 1/2” CPVC to 1/2 MIP adapter, a 1/2 MIP to 1/4 FIP hex bushing, and a 1/4 MIP to 1/8” ID hose barb adapter. I used the 1/8” hose barb instead of a 1/4” because the 1/4” seemed a bit too big for the hose supplied with the bubbler. I epoxied the CPVC to 1/2 MIP adapter to the cap with some thickened epoxy.

Tested it in a bucket at home with the car battery and it seems to work fine. The bubbler claims to use less than .5amp and produce over 5 1/2 liters of air per minute. That is likely overkill for the holding tank so I may wire it with an electronic timer on the same circuit as my shower sump. That way it is easy to turn on and off and I can set it for as much of a duty cycle as I want with the timer.

Pictures to follow.
__________________
Regards,

Dave
SPOT page
dhays is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-07-2018, 08:39 PM   #13
Guru
 
dhays's Avatar
 
City: Gig Harbor
Vessel Name: Kinship
Vessel Model: North Pacific 43
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 9,046
Here are some photos and a video of a bucket test.

https://youtu.be/Dpa7oTXaRnwClick image for larger version

Name:	IMG_20181007_182229.jpeg
Views:	72
Size:	64.6 KB
ID:	81643Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_20181007_182312.jpg
Views:	65
Size:	128.9 KB
ID:	81644Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_20181007_182609.jpeg
Views:	62
Size:	66.2 KB
ID:	81645
__________________
Regards,

Dave
SPOT page
dhays is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-07-2018, 09:22 PM   #14
Moderator Emeritus
 
Comodave's Avatar
 
City: Au Gres, MI
Vessel Name: Black Dog
Vessel Model: Formula 41PC
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 21,131
Did you check and see if the air pump is strong enoug to blow air through the viscous material that will be in your tank. I put a Sweetank in a previous boat that had a horrible problem when you flushed a head. Fixed the problem in 2 hours of air flow into the tank. Let us know how yours works out. We ran the Sweetank 24X7 and never put any chemicals in the tank again and absolutely no smell.
Comodave is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-07-2018, 11:07 PM   #15
Guru
 
dhays's Avatar
 
City: Gig Harbor
Vessel Name: Kinship
Vessel Model: North Pacific 43
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 9,046
Quote:
Originally Posted by Comodave View Post
Did you check and see if the air pump is strong enoug to blow air through the viscous material that will be in your tank. I put a Sweetank in a previous boat that had a horrible problem when you flushed a head. Fixed the problem in 2 hours of air flow into the tank. Let us know how yours works out. We ran the Sweetank 24X7 and never put any chemicals in the tank again and absolutely no smell.

Good question. I don’t know if it will get through the sludge. However, I think it will. No way to know until I get it in the tank.
__________________
Regards,

Dave
SPOT page
dhays is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-07-2018, 11:41 PM   #16
Moderator Emeritus
 
Comodave's Avatar
 
City: Au Gres, MI
Vessel Name: Black Dog
Vessel Model: Formula 41PC
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 21,131
It would be crappy if it doesn’t...
Comodave is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-16-2018, 06:10 PM   #17
Guru
 
dhays's Avatar
 
City: Gig Harbor
Vessel Name: Kinship
Vessel Model: North Pacific 43
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 9,046
I installed the Profile tank monitor last weekend. All went well and it at least registers empty and full. Not sure of the intermediate at this point. One issue is that I have a SS fitting for a hose that enters the tank between the foil sensor strips. There just wasn't any place to install them. We'll see how that affects the accuracy. One other issue which I knew about is that the cut-out for the old TankWatch display is larger than for the Profile display. So I'm going to need to make up a backing plate to mount the Profile display. Hopefully in a way that won't offend the aesthetic sensibilities of my wife.
__________________
Regards,

Dave
SPOT page
dhays is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-16-2018, 08:50 PM   #18
Guru
 
HeadMistress's Avatar


 
City: AR
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 2,514
It has to be calibrated (see the installation instructions) to give you all the levels accurately. Best to do that with just water in the tank. Give Dennis a call if it's not calibrating as it should.

Replacing the SS fitting with a plastic one would eliminate any problems with it. And if you mount the display panel on a nice framed piece of varnished wood or maybe some Corian or other countertop stuff, she'll be ok with it, especially if you let her pick it out.


--Peggie
"If you can't explain it to a six year old, you don't completely understand it yourself." --Albert Einstein
__________________
© 2024 Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since '87.
Author "The NEW Get Rid of Boat Odors"
HeadMistress is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-17-2018, 03:41 PM   #19
Guru
 
dhays's Avatar
 
City: Gig Harbor
Vessel Name: Kinship
Vessel Model: North Pacific 43
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 9,046
Quote:
Originally Posted by HeadMistress View Post
It has to be calibrated (see the installation instructions) to give you all the levels accurately. Best to do that with just water in the tank. Give Dennis a call if it's not calibrating as it should.

Replacing the SS fitting with a plastic one would eliminate any problems with it. And if you mount the display panel on a nice framed piece of varnished wood or maybe some Corian or other countertop stuff, she'll be ok with it, especially if you let her pick it out.

I calibrated it at the empty and full point per the instructions as well as set the tank shape. The tank was empty when I installed it so I set the Empty point, then filled the tank with water and set the Full point. So we’ll watch it as the tank gets filled from use and get a sense of how the 1/4, 1/2, and 3/4 levels read.

Good idea to swap out the SS fitting with plastic. Not an easy job, but I might do it if it seems to be skewing the readings too much.
__________________
Regards,

Dave
SPOT page
dhays is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-2018, 12:05 PM   #20
Guru
 
porman's Avatar
 
City: Duvall, Wa. USA
Vessel Name: Beach Music II
Vessel Model: 2003 Mainship 430 Trawler
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 1,039
I don't know how much it actually matters, but from the installation instructions for the SCAD SOLO-1: "If possible, avoid calibrating holding tanks with fresh water since wastewater is not sensed exactly like fresh water."
porman is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Trawler Port Captains
Port Captains are TF volunteers who can serve as local guides or assist with local arrangements and information. Search below to locate Port Captains near your destination. To learn more about this program read here: TF Port Captain Program





All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:11 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2006 - 2012