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Old 06-07-2018, 10:08 PM   #1
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Can you ruin a compressor?

Now that I know I知 working with standard 115v, I知 just going to wire a household plug up instead of hard wiring it. I知 going to try my hardest to match up polarity but is there any significant dangers if it痴 inadvertently reversed?

Course now that I知 typing this out, I could just reverse the terminals on the bus bar couldn稚 I?

Do y誕ll see how my brain works? Lol
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Old 06-08-2018, 12:15 AM   #2
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Greetings,
Mr. t. The vast majority of 110v plugs and receptacles I've seen have been color coded. Black=brass colored terminal. White=silver colored terminal. Green=ground terminal. Hopefully you'll be using a 3 pronged plug.
I would caution you to leave the boat wiring alone, at this point, ("...reverse the terminals on the bus bar...").
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Old 06-08-2018, 12:57 AM   #3
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I meant the bus bar on the back of the ac unit.

I don’t want to mess with the boat wiring at all, that’s why I just want to hook up a standard three prong plug.
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Old 06-08-2018, 01:02 AM   #4
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Greetings,
Mr. t. Sorry, misunderstood.
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Old 06-19-2018, 07:29 PM   #5
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Reversing hot and neutral will not hurt an electric motor compressor. It could potentially be a greater shock hazard to you. The white neutral wire NEVER touches ground in any electrical appliance. You should always be careful to keep hot wire hot and neutral wire neutral.

People can be electrocuted by reversing hot and neutral as it more readily exposes the hot to your fingers as in a lamp socket base reverse wired. Worst thing you could do is energize the ground wire with the hot wire, then everything metal and grounded is live.
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Old 06-19-2018, 07:38 PM   #6
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Thanks! I got it done.

I contacted the manufacturer and they told me that electrical standards always dictate that L1 is always your hot wire, L2 is always your neutral, and G is always your ground.
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Old 06-20-2018, 06:53 AM   #7
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"I’m just going to wire a household plug up instead of hard wiring it."

If you look in a big box store you can find 110v plugs and sockets that have the std. 15A configuration , but are rated for 20A.

The contractor grade is .75c a plug these are $6 or $7 but are better for short term high load compressor surge starts.
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Old 06-20-2018, 08:24 AM   #8
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asking these basic electicial questions has me wondering about your skills in this area. You could kill yourself, burn something up ,or short out your panel,breaker and may not showup until later. Get a basic electicial knowledge before you go any farther.
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Old 06-20-2018, 09:41 AM   #9
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To help or accidently harm?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Deckape View Post
asking these basic electicial questions has me wondering about your skills in this area. You could kill yourself, burn something up ,or short out your panel,breaker and may not showup until later. Get a basic electicial knowledge before you go any farther.

I agree. With every post I read I ask myself, will I endanger this person by encouraging them to continue into an area where it is likely to end badly?

Most time I say nothing, I can do no harm.
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Old 06-20-2018, 12:23 PM   #10
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Why not "build" a 12v setup?

Just got done posting in the hull cleaning section about it.

Trawler Forum - View Single Post - What do you pay for hull cleaning?
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Old 06-20-2018, 12:37 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toocoys View Post
Thanks! I got it done.

I contacted the manufacturer and they told me that electrical standards always dictate that L1 is always your hot wire, L2 is always your neutral, and G is always your ground.
Never believe the words "always" and "never".

L2 is NOT even usually neutral, much less always. "N" is the correct designator for neutral. "L2" is the correct designation for the second "hot" connection; in N. America, normally the other 120V conductor in a split supply.

If you are faced with a N. Anerican 120V device with "L1", "L2", and "G"; there is a design problem.
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