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Old 11-12-2012, 04:27 PM   #21
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Those things are a long way from the OP's valves ... shouldn't even be in the same thread.

And no self respecting mariner wants to put a bent sheet metal handle on a real seacock. It just isn't done.
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Old 11-12-2012, 06:55 PM   #22
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Larmex99, can`t help with your issue, but is that a grease nipple on the valve body?
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Old 11-12-2012, 06:58 PM   #23
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Yes, that is what it is and I have greased it without results.
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Old 11-12-2012, 09:26 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RT Firefly View Post
Greetings,
Mr. Edelweiss. Two potential solutions for rusty handles...

Coatings and Adhesives, Rubber and Plastic Coatings | Plasti Dip Interntional

Heat-shrink tubing - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

From the tone of your post I suspect you have already mitigated your rust problem...
----------------------------------
Yes sir, many moons ago and they have functioned flawlessly ever since.

I wonder about that grease nipple on that seacock? I've never had one that required grease even on the commercial fishing boats.

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Old 11-12-2012, 10:12 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by Larmex99 View Post
Yes, that is what it is and I have greased it without results.
Prior to greasing lubricated plug cocks it is SOP to loosen the retaining nut on the backside of valve bonnet to allow the grease a free path of travel. If you have an upcoming haulout that would be an ideal time to perform this. Having modeling clay on hand if doing this in the water is sound advice.

Overtightening of the retainer nut on the backside is a common cause of valves designed like this being difficult to operate. Especially so if its a tapered fit, which this one does not appear to be. Loosening that retaining but a bit should make it easier to turn.

Looks to be a good quality valve, if maintained. Casting a new handle should be cheap and easy for a small machine shop. Good luck with your project.
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Old 11-13-2012, 05:17 AM   #26
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Well stated CP.

That valve is traditional style and even if a Chinese knock-off is of far higher quality than the brass ball valves suggested as replacements.

The OP has probably given up in disgust since he asked for oranges and has mostly received combination wrenches for answers or suggestions, but his reference to it being stiff does indicate that it needs servicing. It is difficult to confirm by the photo but it is almost certainly a tapered plug, not all plug valves have a taper extreme enough to be immediately obvious.

The size of the flats where the handle attaches preclude modifying the sheet metal handle of a Home Depot ball valve. There is not enough material to open out and fit the flats and the material itself is too light in any event.

If the OP has not yet tried it, he needs to hold the handle end of the valve with a wrench while carefully loosening the lock nut on the other side, then carefully backing off very slightly the adjusting nut under it. A gentle tap on the handle end will loosen the plug, a shot of grease while the valve is in the open position and a few rotations will free up the valve. Reverse the procedure to finish the job but only tighten the adusting nut until movement is smooth but firm pressure is needed to rotate the handle and there are no leaks. If it leaks at all, it almost certainly needs lapping to seal correctly.

I'll look around for a picture of my girlfriend sitting on the foredeck while I repair a plug valve.
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Old 11-13-2012, 06:23 AM   #27
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Good advice Rick and I will try it, but not until my next haul out in a month. Thanks for the input.
Larry
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