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Old 10-23-2013, 04:22 AM   #21
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The problem with running the engine at a fixed RPM to create 120V is when there is a change of engine speed the voltage and cycles sent to the Air Cond will vary .

There used to be mechanical setups that squeezed a belt with variable pullies to attempt a constant speed , but an engine speed change from steep head seas was beyond there ability.

A good sized Hyd setup , if it is installed anyway, is perhaps the best way to create 6KW or so.

Here is a look,

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Old 10-23-2013, 11:00 AM   #22
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Vessel Model: Tollycraft 34' Tri Cabin
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Originally Posted by CPseudonym View Post
Art try Pinasco Mechanical Contractor on Taylor st in Stockton. They have a legendary service department (4 generations family owned/operated business)that is known for taking on nearly any job. If one of their techs says he can handle it you'll be in good hands with reasonable rates.

If not they can direct you to a top notch reliable local that can handle it. I worked for them many many years ago and have a ton of respect for them.
Again, thanks, Craig...

I contacted Pinasco and spoke with an old-boy (you probably know him, I didn’t get his name). He said expect a call back. Ben, their expert AC tech, later called me. Nice, knowledgeable fellows to briefly chat with.

Yup... if mechanical workings of our "1977-classic" Coleman AC are intact and workable it can be re charged and function. However, if there are repairs needed (ours has not been used for 5 yrs +) the cost may get too tall to bother and then a new unit is advised. With new basically duplicate AC units at $1K +/- and AC tech at $150 per hr - I've decision(s) to make.

One item is that to remove the old and install a new AC major alterations of flying bridge console are required - cause, orig AC was installed pre the console installation over it. That said... in its current position AC is serviceable from port or starboard via console doors (tight fit though) as well as from salon ceiling once its AC/Heat dial and distribution unit is dropped down. Decisions, decisions!!

Thinking this through... Ways Ta Go!

1. Have AC Tech visit and determine current AC’s condition; if OK recharge/restart. My Cost Approximation - $200 to $500 (not bad if unit can be made to fully function again and remain in working condition for a period of time)

2. Remove captain chair pedestal off bridge floor. Drastically cut open console’s center face-wall. Deal with console wires under gauges (excellent chance to make sure they are in good order). Off hook / remove current AC. Install new AC. Refasten chair pedestal. Build new console center face-wall (double doors or a screwed in panel??). My Cost Approximation - $1,500 to $1,750 (and a lot of time/effort by me! Fully contracted out I easily see 3 to 4 “Boat Dollar$$$$!! – for a couple of on the hook genset running AC days per yr – instead of swimming to cool off!) This alternative does not equate – in my mind, Admiral’s either!

3. Leave as is and swim a lot on the few really hot Delta Days!!! Cost $O.OO (No approximation, No effort, No problem!)

Sooo... Seems to be a nearly dead heat (pun intended) between # 1 and # 3. With # 3 currently maintaining 1st place due to inertia. I will personally delve into inspecting the current AC unit before calling to give #1 momentum. Looks like one o’ dem spring boat projects ta me!

Happy Boating Daze! - Art

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Old 10-23-2013, 03:09 PM   #23
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For years we used a 5KW Seapower unit to power the ac. It was trouble free from day one until we pulled it off and sold it to be used for a second time when we disposed of the boat. It's now doing the same thing for it's new owners. To bad they don't make them under the Seapower name anymore, they were a great product.Larry

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