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Old 02-04-2013, 07:07 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by markpierce View Post
The Coot's water heater in this during-construction photo is under the white rag and temporary blue-plastic covering. (Air compressor to the left, white battery box in front.)

prety nice clean set up..
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Old 02-05-2013, 05:34 AM   #42
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Mark: what is the air compressor used for?
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Old 02-05-2013, 08:49 AM   #43
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Thanks, good idea to do several flushes. The bleach if clorine will kill pathogens and the peppermint oil will mask oders but how do we remove the contaminants instead of just covering them up?
Just keep filling and draining. Each cycle will dillute the contaminants. Bleach will have no effect on antifreeze.

Note: There is a check valve in the water heater that can impede draining because it creates a vacuum in the tank. Open the TP valve as well as the drain valve to get around the check valve issue.
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Old 02-05-2013, 08:55 AM   #44
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Mark: what is the air compressor used for?
It is for the air horns.
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Old 02-05-2013, 02:12 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by bfloyd4445 View Post
Thanks, good idea to do several flushes. The bleach if clorine will kill pathogens and the peppermint oil will mask oders but how do we remove the contaminants instead of just covering them up? This is kinda like the slice of lemon in the water at the restruant that dosent wish to filter the drinking water just wants you to think they do.
Yes as mentioned, just keep flushing. Simple green will help too but it will also require flushing and hot water would be even better.
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Old 02-05-2013, 04:45 PM   #46
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Yes as mentioned, just keep flushing. Simple green will help too but it will also require flushing and hot water would be even better.
simple green contains compounds that are carcinogenic and not for skin contact. Its on the label. That stuff is a good engine cleaner. Just spray it on, wait a few then wash off with water.
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Old 02-06-2013, 01:27 AM   #47
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That's bullshit. You can read the MSDS for Simple Green here:
http://www.kandelandson.com/msds/Simple%20Green.pdf

Excerpt:
The only ingredient of Simple Green
® with established exposure limits is undiluted 2-butoxyethanol (<6%) (Butyl Cellosolve;
CAS No. 111-76-2): the OSHA PEL and ACGIH TLV is 25 ppm (skin). Note, however, that Butyl Cellosolve is only one of
the raw material ingredients that undergo processing and dilution during the manufacture of Simple Green
®. Upon completion
of the manufacturing process, Simple Green
® does not possess the occupational health risks associated with exposure to
undiluted Butyl Cellosolve. Verification of this is contained in the independent test results detailed under “Toxicological
Information” on Page 3 of this MSDS.
The Butyl Cellosolve in Simple Green
® is part of a chemical category (glycol ethers) regulated by the Emergency Planning
and Community Right-to-Know Act (SARA, Title III, section 313); therefore, a reporting requirement exists. Based upon
chemical analysis, Simple Green
® contains no known EPA priority pollutants, heavy metals, or chemicals listed under RCRA,
CERCLA, or CWA. Analysis by TCLP (Toxicity Characteristic Leaching Procedure) according to RCRA revealed no toxic
organic or inorganic constituents.


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Old 02-06-2013, 04:51 PM   #48
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I wouldn't put anything into my boat's potable water system that's not safe to drink, the exception being chlorine bleach which is diluted and rinsed out before the system is put back into use. Chlorine is used by city water systems to dissinfect water and is considered safe in the amount they use.
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Old 02-06-2013, 07:27 PM   #49
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simple green contains compounds that are carcinogenic and not for skin contact.
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Old 02-06-2013, 09:31 PM   #50
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[QUOTE=Keith;132557]That's bullshit. You can read the MSDS for Simple Green here:
http://www.kandelandson.com/msds/Simple%20Green.pdf

Your right, not bs just old info the formula has been upgraded since 2006 but it does still have these chemicals according to your list:

CDC - Immediately Dangerous to Life or Health Concentrations (IDLH): n-Butyl acetate - NIOSH Publications and Products

http://www.cdc.gov/niosh/npg/npgd0070.html

http://www.cdc.gov/niosh/docs/83-112/


all of which made IDLH < immediately dangerous to life and heath > limits from 1700 ppm to less than 700ppm < parts per million >

chuckle, and even though its so so safe simple green advises immediately washing from your skin if exposed. Wonder why if its so safe? Maybe they are afraid it may react with other chemicals that may be upon your skin? I knoiw what your thinking, however, if simple green didn't react with other chemicals it wouldn't be much good as a cleaner would it?

I was a volunteer emergency responder for many years, partly because i loved the over time, and partly becuase I enjoyed the thrill. What i soon gained an appreciation for was how often I would find dangerous so called harmless chemicals like simple green, household ammonia, clorine bleach etc. used by citizens in a haphazard ways only becuse the label says they are safe. I helped one lady in her early forties that ended up in the morgue from breathing fumes for years from common household cleaners. She made extra money cleaning vacated apartments and loved ammoina and bleach. Our chemists informed me that clorine bleach and ammonia will produce phosgene gas < IDLH 2ppm >a product that was used in the trenches of ww1 and destroyed the soldiers lungs.

As for simple green i love the stuff. But, it should be handled like all chemicals with care if you wish to live to a ripe old age
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Old 02-06-2013, 09:40 PM   #51
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I wouldn't put anything into my boat's potable water system that's not safe to drink, the exception being chlorine bleach which is diluted and rinsed out before the system is put back into use. Chlorine is used by city water systems to dissinfect water and is considered safe in the amount they use.
my sentiments exactly. bleach is a wonderful tool if used properly at the correct concentration for the job at hand. My problem with supermarket bleach is they are often contaminated by the manufacturer with other substances for various purposes. I wish they were just plane bleach and no additives except water to dilute them to the proper concentration.
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Old 02-06-2013, 10:21 PM   #52
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Phosgene is made by heating refrigerant. Clorox and ammonia makes clorimine gas.
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Old 02-06-2013, 10:59 PM   #53
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Phosgene is made by heating refrigerant. Clorox and ammonia makes clorimine gas.
they are naturally produced by the breakdown of organoclorine compounds such as those in refrigerants, ammonia is a refrigerant. the question came up and our chemist explained the reaction to us one day and said phosgene smells like mown hay or green corn.
Here are some other names for it from the NIOSH pocket guide Carbon oxychloride, Carbonyl chloride, Carbonyl dichloride, Chloroformyl chloride
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Old 02-07-2013, 07:41 AM   #54
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they are naturally produced by the breakdown of organoclorine compounds such as those in refrigerants, ammonia is a refrigerant. the question came up and our chemist explained the reaction to us one day and said phosgene smells like mown hay or green corn.
Here are some other names for it from the NIOSH pocket guide Carbon oxychloride, Carbonyl chloride, Carbonyl dichloride, Chloroformyl chloride
Ammonia, NH3, is a refrigerant because of its low boiling point. It is not an organochlorine compound. No C or Cl.
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Old 02-07-2013, 09:29 AM   #55
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We rarely use the bus heater as the fan is noisy.
I got a good buy on some new surplus bus heaters when I installed the Hurricane heater on my CHB but changed the fans to very quiet "muffin" fans and installed a hi/med/low speed switch with resistors for speed control and virtually silent operation.
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Old 02-07-2013, 01:00 PM   #56
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Many of the engine surveyors I deal with do not like to see hot water heated by engine cooling water. However if there is a shut off valve close to the engine on the water hose to the heater, they suggest the line be closed except when needed. The reason being that if that hose fails you could overheat an engine. If you run a generator most of the time it is best not to take a risk with an extra hose in the cooling sysytem.
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Old 02-07-2013, 04:39 PM   #57
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Many of the engine surveyors I deal with do not like to see hot water heated by engine cooling water. However if there is a shut off valve close to the engine on the water hose to the heater, they suggest the line be closed except when needed. The reason being that if that hose fails you could overheat an engine. ........
And yet just about every boat with a water heater has this feature.

The guy who surveyed my boat (he has a good reputation in my area) said nothing about this and did not make any recommendations regarding closing the valves.
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Old 02-07-2013, 05:04 PM   #58
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Ammonia, NH3, is a refrigerant because of its low boiling point. It is not an organochlorine compound. No C or Cl.
your right. wonder what he was refering to when he cautioned us?...that was ten years ago.
Geez...can't get nuttin bye you guys
aint that great
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Old 02-08-2013, 08:30 AM   #59
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If you run a generator most of the time it is best not to take a risk with an extra hose in the cooling sysytem.

You gotta be kidding!!

The number of hoses on the propulsion engine , air cond , water maker, hydronic heat and HW system are no problem?

But one extra hose on a device that is factory built with an over temp shut down is a risk to the vessel?

To stop problems most folks would do far better installing mechanical gauges and an auto shut down system on the propulsion engine(s).

HW from the noisemaker is called CO GENERATION, a great talking point when those greenies get going with their co2 HOAX talk.
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Old 02-09-2013, 02:16 PM   #60
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simple green contains compounds that are carcinogenic and not for skin contact. Its on the label. That stuff is a good engine cleaner. Just spray it on, wait a few then wash off with water.
It will rinse just fine, which is what he'll need to do to get the glycol out anyway. One way or another, 10x+ the volume of the tank will have to pass through this tank anyway to flush it out. Simple green is used in restaurants and many other places food or human consumables are near and perfectly safe when rinse properly.
No one, especially me, is advocating leaving any traceable amounts of Simple Green left in the tank.
Again, the hotter the water the better to thoroughly flush it.
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