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Old 02-22-2013, 07:46 AM   #21
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On a sort of related note, how would a "home" refrigerator or freezer fare on a boat underway? I haven't bought one in a while, but they all used to come with dire warnings to level them perfectly, and not to start them until they've remained level for hours.
They run just fine. I've had a dormitory sized Haier refrigerator on board for over 10 years. Ventilation is important. Also need a way to keep the door locked when underway!
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Old 02-22-2013, 08:30 AM   #22
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They do fine....at least on a powerboat..not sure about the big heel of a sailboat.

I don't recall which ones...but some boats new come with home appliances and certainly most commercial boats (they get retrofitted or even original with them.)
Great Harbor is one that comes with home appliances.

Mr. Fickett is here sometime. He might chime in.
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Old 02-22-2013, 09:51 AM   #23
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On a sort of related note, how would a "home" refrigerator or freezer fare on a boat underway? I haven't bought one in a while, but they all used to come with dire warnings to level them perfectly, and not to start them until they've remained level for hours.
Most all of the big high end trawlers tend to use Sub Zero home units and they do ok, but use a lot of juice to run. Here in the Pac NW we see a lot of boats that go North for the summers use home freezers and have them on the back deck.. they are so cheap that when it turns into a rust bucket in three years it goes to the dump. Heed the advise to keep it full.. air is a hard thing to keep cool.
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Old 02-22-2013, 09:53 AM   #24
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The old Xantrex were fine it's the new ones that are garbage. Our MSW 3100w/160amp Magnum was about $1600, that seems pretty cheep to me. We run computers, LCD TVs, microwave, tools, compressor, battery chargers, phone chargers, LCD TV, CFL bulbs, hot water heater, space heaters, blow dryers, heat guns, XBOX, DVD players, refridgerator and every kitchen appliance known to man all with no problems.
+1

Xantrex has been through at least three ownership changes, most recently when Schneider, a large French electrical conglomerate (they also own the APC surge and UPS brand) bought it from the private equity group who had sent manufacturing off shore and discontinued making repairable product to get them out of the parts business. Customer service went far south too. Perhaps Schneider will make some improvements, but why not buy American owned, American made products which are repairable and have American customer support that answers the phone? I.E, Charles, Magnum, NewMar, Outback, and to a lesser extent ProMariner? Especially if you happen to be in America?

I could tell you my Xantrex customer service story for the high end XC charger that came with the boat when I bought it.. but I think you could guess how it goes..ridiculous.
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Old 02-22-2013, 10:37 AM   #25
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We have a top loading freezer on our aft deck....of the home variety. It has been working for us for 5+ years....and was on the boat when we bought it. We keep it covered with a sunbrella cover...and when we are in motion...it is not supplied power, and we have found that it will keep well frozen for 12 hours without power. Its nothing fancy.

We need the freezer as we are fulltime liveaboards, and the refrigeration on the boat is a custom built refrigerator with two heavy duty holding plates....and a remote compressor that runs off 120VAC....it generally only runs about 2 hours a day...and while some things in its lowest point might freeze....at current settings...its not set up to be a freezer.
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Old 02-22-2013, 10:57 AM   #26
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It just isn't true that a domestic freezer will have poorer insulation than a "marine" freezer...and that is the case with 'fridges, too. The walls (& therefore insulation) of most marine refrigerator/freezers are thinner and the dimensions overall non -standard, to cope with our often odd/limited spaces. And marine 'fridges have other worthwhile attributes, like lockable door catches. & tabs ready-made to assist with bolting the appliance down (both not normally needed in domestic installs). But the efficiency gains from a domestic appliance's superior insulation will substantially or entirely offset inverter losses. Victron, one of the world's leading suppliers of inverter/chargers, recommends using domestic refrigeration appliances where possible for this reason. Get the domestic freezer with the best insulation characteristics you can find then pay attention to how you will fasten it down and secure its door/lid.
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Old 02-22-2013, 03:13 PM   #27
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My neighbour parked at my wharf left his freezer on too long. Hate when that happens!

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Old 02-22-2013, 04:10 PM   #28
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I agree with the above advice. Place the inverter as close to the battery bank as possible. The instructions on my inverter required that it be placed within 6 feet of the 12v source.

If you need to make a long run for the power to the freezer, do it with a 110 AC line from the inverter. You won't experience the losses associated with DC.
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Old 02-22-2013, 07:03 PM   #29
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One of Gray Hawk's previous owners has a domestic freezer on his current Defever. He uses it on regular trips to Alaska. He has disconnected the thermostat so that, when powered, the freezer compressor runs nonstop. His theory is that he gets the freezer "really cold" and then it holds longer when its not running. Anybody here have any experience with that practice? SWMBO says we need to have a freezer before we leave for Alaska and it will be a residential freezer of some description.
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Old 02-22-2013, 07:09 PM   #30
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I would be tempted to load up the freezer with the fish I'm catching. I would be put under the jail with a chest freezer on the rose.
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Old 02-22-2013, 07:20 PM   #31
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One of Gray Hawk's previous owners has a domestic freezer on his current Defever. He uses it on regular trips to Alaska. He has disconnected the thermostat so that, when powered, the freezer compressor runs nonstop. His theory is that he gets the freezer "really cold" and then it holds longer when its not running. Anybody here have any experience with that practice? .
That sounds like a pretty dumb idea to me. If a thermostat wasn't a good idea, the manufacturer wouldn't have installed one. There's a point where continued running won't get the freezer any colder, it will just wear out the compressor.

I once had a boss like that. He "didn't believe in thermostats". He set the AC system thermostat to 65 degrees, then cut it on untill he was comfortable, then cut it off until he was hot, then turned it on again. It was uncomfortable for the rest of us and nobody could convince him that the thermostat was doing the same thing automatically.
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Old 02-22-2013, 07:30 PM   #32
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I once had a boss like that. He "didn't believe in thermostats". He set the AC system thermostat to 65 degrees, then cut it on untill he was comfortable, then cut it off until he was hot, then turned it on again..
Wait a minute! Are you talking about my wife?
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Old 02-22-2013, 08:08 PM   #33
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Wait a minute! Are you talking about my wife?
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Old 02-22-2013, 08:56 PM   #34
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I guess it would be a good idea if the freezer thermostat had a lower limit...if it did it would make perfect sense to get rid of the stat. Manufacturers make things to price points and for the masses..,not for the smart and creative...

Does NASCAR accept factory autos or do they soup them up????...do airplane racers take factory aircraft stock and race them????? Do snipers live with factory ammo????

I could go on and on but the vast majority here already know...

Anyone that has to live with what maufacturers produce get exactly what they deserve.

That said...sometimes it's the best that can be done for the price point, but often it's not...you just have to do a little research and use your brain to know when to get a little creative...
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Old 02-22-2013, 09:46 PM   #35
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Anyone that has to live with what maufacturers produce get exactly what they deserve.

That said...sometimes it's the best that can be done for the price point, but often it's not...you just have to do a little research and use your brain to know when to get a little creative...
That's kind of how I was thinking too. I think Chuck puts a thermometer in the freezer to monitor the temp. It seems to me it would make a lot of sense when you're anchored to have it run hard while the gennie is running. It wouldn't take long to figure out that it gets down to XX degrees and never goes any lower so at that point you could just unplug it.
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Old 02-22-2013, 09:56 PM   #36
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I run a domestic frig and a freezer on Tidahapah. Both LG 90 lt units. The frig all frig so that there is no freeze section.
I also have an Eva Kool 110 lt frig and a 110 lt freezer on the back deck (these are similar to Waco Engel but in fiberglass boxes and made locally here in Aus)
All these run of my inverter over night and at other times when no 240 Volt power is available.

I have a 3000 Watt/24 V Victron Inverter charger and hve never had a problem with it. Master volt units appeared to give a lot of problems down here in Aus for some time.
The domestic frig and freezer have now been running continuously for just over 7 years now.
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Old 02-22-2013, 11:24 PM   #37
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I run a domestic frig and a freezer on Tidahapah. Both LG 90 lt units. The frig all frig so that there is no freeze section.
I also have an Eva Kool 110 lt frig and a 110 lt freezer on the back deck (these are similar to Waco Engel but in fiberglass boxes and made locally here in Aus)
All these run of my inverter over night and at other times when no 240 Volt power is available.
Benn
Ben, How much battery capacity, and what type, do you have to run those?
Do you sometimes run all at the one time?
What charging system(s) do you have, additional to the main engine?
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Old 02-23-2013, 03:10 AM   #38
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Bruce,
Myhouse bank consists of 8 Trojan T 105 6 Volt batteries set up as a 24 Volt system.
Capacity 450 Amp @ 24 V
Victron Inverter/charger has a 50 amp charger, my cruise alternator is 5 KVA and runs when I am at cruising RPM.
I also have a 9 KVA gen set
main engine only has a 60 amp charger
There is a 2 KVA Honda as an absolute back up if required.

My friges and freezers run all the time I am on board.
Cheers
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Old 02-23-2013, 08:28 AM   #39
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great advice all around here guys. I'm leaning toward giving it a go with a small domestic freezer, something along the lines of 3 cf. It is tough to figure out how much they actually draw prior to purchase as those specs aren't readily available, but my thought is that the smaller the box the less it has to run.

There is a really great spot on the new boat to put it, a spot that is set up to hold a washer dryer (which we don't have). It will be well secured and wiring will be easy. On a top loading chest freezer you really don't need a door latch.

On our long Bahamas cruises it really pays off to have more freezer space as food is roughly 1/2 the price in the US as there. Also, my feeling is that you can use a freezer to make ice ("blue" blocks are easiest) which will then make fridge space using a cooler.

I have a 10 year old and a 14 year old son. We have to bring a lot of food. :-)
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Old 02-23-2013, 09:10 AM   #40
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I have a "Holiday" 5 cubic ft freezer that I bought on line at Lowes. They delivered it the next day, all the way to my slip, unpacked and installed it
on the aft deck. It doesn't have a defrost mode, but after running continuously for 3mos haven't had to defrost yet. it does have a drain, and good seals on the lid.
It is on the aft deck and was exposed to weather for three weeks while my Bimini was being restitched. I'm very happy with it, holds more than I need and cost less than $200.00

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