AC drain idea

[cardude01]

I didn't think about a different type bilge pump that would suck out all the water. That's an interesting idea.

I do wonder how often the venturi pump will clog. I'm still going to try it out and see how well it works.

 

[rwidman]

..........IMHO the most trouble free method is the remote mounted diaphram pump using a suction foot that'll leave only a 1/16" or less water in the keel. ...............

By far, the most trouble free method of draining AC condensate is by gravity directly overboard. I have never had a problem with mine.

 

[twistedtree]

I'd be trying to install an enclosed sump in that bilge area, like those used for showers. If you can't get the drain hose routed to an existing sump, maybe bring a sump to the drain hose?

 

[cardude01]

I'd be trying to install an enclosed sump in that bilge area, like those used for showers. If you can't get the drain hose routed to an existing sump, maybe bring a sump to the drain hose?

Yeah, I will try to find a small sump that will fit in there I think. Can I plumb the sump outlet uphill and tie into the sink drain? That's the easiest place to reach.

 

[twistedtree]

Yeah, I will try to find a small sump that will fit in there I think. Can I plumb the sump outlet uphill and tie into the sink drain? That's the easiest place to reach.

I would think so. Just be aware of back siphoning possibilities. They are often hard to visualize until there is water in the boat.

 

[rwidman]

Yeah, I will try to find a small sump that will fit in there I think. Can I plumb the sump outlet uphill and tie into the sink drain? That's the easiest place to reach.

Yes, but you need to bring the hose up above the connection to the sink drain and then back down. Otherwise water draining from the sink could drain into the sump.

 

[cardude01]

Yes, but you need to bring the hose up above the connection to the sink drain and then back down. Otherwise water draining from the sink could drain into the sump.

Ahh. Gotcha. Make a loop maybe? I hope a sump pump will have enough power to push the water through a loop.

 

[Heron]

I do wonder how often the venturi pump will clog. I'm still going to try it out and see how well it works.

I've got a screen strainer on my intake line. I wouldn't think it would be a big (if any) issue..

 

[LongJohn]

Water bed drain kit

I've used the Water bed drain kit for several projects. Mine would handle 3-4 gpm on the forced side with ease but low flows would not always establish any appreciable lift on the suction side.

 

[rwidman]

Ahh. Gotcha. Make a loop maybe? I hope a sump pump will have enough power to push the water through a loop.

A loop is fine. You don't have to buy one, just make sure that some point of the line is above your connection to the sink drain and the hose goes downhill into the drain. A "Y" fitting rather than a "T" will force the waste in the right direction.

A sump pump should work just fine. You're only raising the discharge a few inches higher.

 

[cardude01]

I've used the Water bed drain kit for several projects. Mine would handle 3-4 gpm on the forced side with ease but low flows would not always establish any appreciable lift on the suction side.

Any idea what the flow is on an AC raw water cooling system ?

 

[healhustler]

Any idea what the flow is on an AC raw water cooling system ?

When I've run cleaner through my coils using my current 8.17 GPM (490 GPH/60) March pump, I've never measured it but the way it initially fills the bucket must be about 5 gal. per minute through a Cruiseair 16K BTU unit that is pretty old and might have some restrictions. That's with 5/8" lines and a fresh pump.

 

[cardude01]

Cool. Thanks Larry.

 

[Capt.Bill11]

Any idea what the flow is on an AC raw water cooling system ?

System Capacity(Btu/hr) Seawater Flow Rate(gph) Inlet Size
5,000-12,000 250 ½"
16,000-24,000 500 ¾"
30,000-48,000 1,000 1"

 

[stubones99]

What was wrong with a standard condensate pump?

For $50-$80, it has a catch basin, pump and float switch. You route the drain tube into the basin, and when it fills to the switch level, the pump cuts on and pumps it out. They have 10+ foot head on most pumps. Run the drain through an anti-siphon valve and into some existing line (like sink drain).

 

[rwidman]

What was wrong with a standard condensate pump?

For $50-$80, it has a catch basin, pump and float switch. You route the drain tube into the basin, and when it fills to the switch level, the pump cuts on and pumps it out. They have 10+ foot head on most pumps. Run the drain through an anti-siphon valve and into some existing line (like sink drain).

There's no need for an anti siphon valve when joining two waste lines. There's no chance of cross contamination.

I've never seen a standard condensate pump but surely that would work if it's what I think it is.

 

[psneeld]

You need an anti-siphon loop if the discharge is underwater (permanently or for long temporary periods such as a sailboat on a long tack) and the open source is below the waterline....such as a centrifugal bilge pump in a shower sump.

Has more to do with siphoning than cross contamination.

In this case the opening to the sink is the anti-siphon opening. Would only be an issue maybe if you had it stoppered and full of water so it was airtight.

 

[River Cruiser]

By far, the most trouble free method of draining AC condensate is by gravity directly overboard. I have never had a problem with mine.

I would agree with you if that was possible on my boat the forward unit is below the waterline. That would possibly work on the unit under the Solon floor but I've always avoided drilling holes in the hull.


Sent from my iPad using Trawler Forum

 

[stubones99]

Check out this link:

http://www.amazon.com/Little-Giant-VCMA-15UL-horsepower-Condensate/dp/B000CCMUCM

If you look at the add-on items, there is a check-valve to prevent back-flow to the condensate pump. As long as there is a bit of bleach added occasionally to the water, I doubt the valve would stop up.

Then run to the nearest sink drain and you'll have a drain with no extra holes.
The valve would also prevent the line draining back into the pump basin as well.

The only thing better would be a 12vdc version, which I've never seen. I have seen the condensate pumps in numerous AC installs where there is no clear shot outside with a down-hill slope.