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Old 12-24-2015, 07:30 AM   #21
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There is really no room to run the drain overboard due to the center location of the bilge area.

FWIW, one of our AC condensate drains is plumbed to the shower sump...

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Old 12-24-2015, 07:49 AM   #22
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FWIW, one of our AC condensate drains is plumbed to the shower sump...

-Chris

I can't find a way to run a hose from the AC unit (or the central bilge) location to the shower sump.
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Old 12-24-2015, 07:51 AM   #23
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If the drain can be installed above the water line it should be fine.
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Old 12-24-2015, 07:58 AM   #24
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AC drain idea

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If the drain can be installed above the water line it should be fine.

Yeah where I would mount it would definitely be above the waterline.

And when the AC pump is off I think it shuts off possible water flow from the thru hull, but I could be wrong on that.
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Old 12-24-2015, 09:47 AM   #25
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If shower sump is below ac unit elevation-wise, a hose can be run. Just want a gradual downward slope the whole run or it will get a loop trap and won't drain.
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Old 12-24-2015, 11:25 AM   #26
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I can't find a way to run a hose from the AC unit (or the central bilge) location to the shower sump.
I was thinking of an additional, dedicated shower sump for the AC condensate. And of course if the condensate pan is above the waterline, just install another thu hull and let gravity do it's thing. That's how mine is set up.
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Old 12-24-2015, 12:58 PM   #27
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I can't find a way to run a hose from the AC unit (or the central bilge) location to the shower sump.
And not everyone has an automatic sump drain. Mine is switched on manually...

I'm thinking the "Y" valve mentioned earlier is a good solution. Divert enough through the venturi to drain the condensate without significantly reducing overall flow through the system. Simple to do also..Just run in parallel to your existing cooling line.
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Old 12-24-2015, 07:22 PM   #28
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And not everyone has an automatic sump drain. Mine is switched on manually...

I'm thinking the "Y" valve mentioned earlier is a good solution. Divert enough through the venturi to drain the condensate without significantly reducing overall flow through the system. Simple to do also..Just run in parallel to your existing cooling line.
I cant imagine why all sumps arent auto. My boat has (amateur built) sumps from 20 years ago and they have level switches in them. The breaker in the distribution panel supplies the power and the level switch controls the sump.
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Old 12-25-2015, 09:05 AM   #29
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I cant imagine why all sumps arent auto. My boat has (amateur built) sumps from 20 years ago and they have level switches in them. The breaker in the distribution panel supplies the power and the level switch controls the sump.
My boat has no actual shower sump. It has a pump that's capable of running dry so you just step into the shower and turn it on and off as necessary. Hair and soap scum can cause automatic pumps to jam.

And while we're on the subject of AC condensate, a slip neighbor of mine complained that whenever he ran his AC, he got water in the cabin.

Long story short, the AC condensate line ran half the distance of the boat into a sump with an automatic pump but for some reason the sump itself had a built in restriction in the inlet and rust and dirt had clogged the hose where it entered the pump. Simply pulling the hose off the sump cleared the hose and it started working again.
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Old 12-28-2015, 12:17 PM   #30
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My boat does the same thing with the water draining into the bilge where it collects in the keel. The keel has a forward and aft pump mounted, they are small Rule manual pumps that fit the narrow width of the keel. I've considered all of these fixes but all have drawbacks, the plumbing to a centrally place shower drain box seems to be the problem with this, there is not much drop from the forward unit to the bilge. The Venturi method requires regular maintenance to keep it Fromm plugging up. IMHO the most trouble free method is the remote mounted diaphram pump using a suction foot that'll leave only a 1/16" or less water in the keel. I have bought bought a Mermaid Venturi type and a shower pump box with a float switch and Rule pump and after more thought decided against going each route. When the current manual stripper pumps fail I will replace them with Whale diaphram pumps which I've also bought, I have yet to buy the proper foot for the suction hose but will find or fabricate something that will keep the bilge drier than it is currently.


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Old 12-28-2015, 01:38 PM   #31
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I didn't think about a different type bilge pump that would suck out all the water. That's an interesting idea.

I do wonder how often the venturi pump will clog. I'm still going to try it out and see how well it works.
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Old 12-28-2015, 03:39 PM   #32
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..........IMHO the most trouble free method is the remote mounted diaphram pump using a suction foot that'll leave only a 1/16" or less water in the keel. ...............
By far, the most trouble free method of draining AC condensate is by gravity directly overboard. I have never had a problem with mine.
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Old 12-28-2015, 04:06 PM   #33
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I'd be trying to install an enclosed sump in that bilge area, like those used for showers. If you can't get the drain hose routed to an existing sump, maybe bring a sump to the drain hose?
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Old 12-28-2015, 09:04 PM   #34
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I'd be trying to install an enclosed sump in that bilge area, like those used for showers. If you can't get the drain hose routed to an existing sump, maybe bring a sump to the drain hose?

Yeah, I will try to find a small sump that will fit in there I think. Can I plumb the sump outlet uphill and tie into the sink drain? That's the easiest place to reach.
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Old 12-28-2015, 10:42 PM   #35
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Yeah, I will try to find a small sump that will fit in there I think. Can I plumb the sump outlet uphill and tie into the sink drain? That's the easiest place to reach.
I would think so. Just be aware of back siphoning possibilities. They are often hard to visualize until there is water in the boat.
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Old 12-29-2015, 01:38 PM   #36
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Yeah, I will try to find a small sump that will fit in there I think. Can I plumb the sump outlet uphill and tie into the sink drain? That's the easiest place to reach.
Yes, but you need to bring the hose up above the connection to the sink drain and then back down. Otherwise water draining from the sink could drain into the sump.
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Old 12-29-2015, 01:58 PM   #37
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AC drain idea

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Yes, but you need to bring the hose up above the connection to the sink drain and then back down. Otherwise water draining from the sink could drain into the sump.

Ahh. Gotcha. Make a loop maybe? I hope a sump pump will have enough power to push the water through a loop.
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Old 12-29-2015, 02:57 PM   #38
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I do wonder how often the venturi pump will clog. I'm still going to try it out and see how well it works.
I've got a screen strainer on my intake line. I wouldn't think it would be a big (if any) issue..
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Old 12-29-2015, 04:00 PM   #39
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Water bed drain kit

I've used the Water bed drain kit for several projects. Mine would handle 3-4 gpm on the forced side with ease but low flows would not always establish any appreciable lift on the suction side.
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Old 12-29-2015, 04:00 PM   #40
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Ahh. Gotcha. Make a loop maybe? I hope a sump pump will have enough power to push the water through a loop.
A loop is fine. You don't have to buy one, just make sure that some point of the line is above your connection to the sink drain and the hose goes downhill into the drain. A "Y" fitting rather than a "T" will force the waste in the right direction.

A sump pump should work just fine. You're only raising the discharge a few inches higher.
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