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Old 02-02-2014, 10:22 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ksanders View Post
Southcentral Alaska is as humid as it gets.

Replace humid stagnant air with humid fresh air and no mold grows.

People would rather, it seems to jump through all kinds of hoops, when ventilation solves all the problems.
Yes, keeping the air flowing is mainly it. We have quite high humidity here in Queensland, but I find a solar-powered extractor fan (not surprisingly called a solarvent), keeps the mildew away - costs nothing to run. I have two...one in the for'd hatch, the other is that round white porthole looking thing on the front face of the flybridge. They operate even in overcast conditions.
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Old 02-02-2014, 10:47 PM   #22
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Which model of the EVA is that? Have you experienced the same problem with it shutting down due to temp? I usually like to keep my boat about 50 when I am not in it.
Mine is the little 1100, but I have a little boat.

I keep a bit of heat in my boat as well, maybe in the mid-40s F. I've never had it freeze up when the oil filled heater was on. But I have had it freeze up when the boat was, well, below freezing during the early cold snap we had this fall, when I didn't have the heater on. It looked like it was trying to ingest a snowball. But as it is a peltier effect unit, it doesn't matter. I just put it in the sink, snowball down, so the meltwater didn't get into the unit.

My RH reads ~50% when I go down and check the boat. Typically the RH outside is >80% where I live in the winter.
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Old 02-02-2014, 10:52 PM   #23
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I went with a small Peltier Effect dehumidifier like the Evadry. I also installed a hose in the tank to allow it to drain into the sink. I didn't have a fitting to put in the tank so I just drilled a hole slightly smaller than the OD of the hose, shoved the hose in the hole and it's been draining fine ever since. I used aquarium air hose.

I thought about a solar vent but decided not to cut a hole in my hatch which was the best place for me to put one.
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Old 02-02-2014, 11:42 PM   #24
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I have several cabinets that would not get any ventilation until I open them. Keeping the air dry is the key. I would have to dissagree with just ventilation. Close up a cabinet in a high humid area and put something to culture mold and I'd be a betting man that you would get something quickly in a closed up area of the boat.
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Old 02-03-2014, 02:06 AM   #25
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I have 2 of those oil-filled heaters, open all the hatches and compartments and leave some of the windows open a crack. No growth.

Remember too that when it's nearly freezing or is freezing there is virtually no humidity in the air.
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Old 02-03-2014, 07:17 AM   #26
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Here in Fl where summers are 100+F with 100% humidity mold is a problem.

Roof Turbine Vents | Ask the Builder

AsktheBuilder.com - Do it Right Not Overroof-turbine-vents/‎

Yes not very yachty , but as a replacement hatch cover , these are very effective.

Since they run almost 24/7 there are loads of air changes per day.

Sunlight pouring in the windows heats the interior , alowin the relative humidity to drop.

IF the interior walls can be kept from dripping condensation , most of the mold hassle goes away.
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Old 02-03-2014, 07:38 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xsbank View Post
I have 2 of those oil-filled heaters, open all the hatches and compartments and leave some of the windows open a crack. No growth.

Remember too that when it's nearly freezing or is freezing there is virtually no humidity in the air.
My recollection of oil heaters is they add quite a lot of moisture to the air as they burn. I certainly would never leave any heater like that unattended. Then there is the issue of rain getting in through opened hatches, and not being secure, so I guess you mean only while on board, which suggests you are a liveaboard. The original query was to do with boats left closed up, and how to avoid condensation, and therefore mildew etc, I think.
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Old 02-03-2014, 07:41 AM   #28
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My recollection of oil heaters is they add quite a lot of moisture to the air as they burn.
Oil filled heater... It's a radiator. Ideally, no burning involved.
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Old 02-03-2014, 07:45 AM   #29
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Pete, I think they are talking about electric heaters like this:
Pelonis Oil Filled Heater
No flame or exposed heating elements.
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Old 02-03-2014, 07:50 AM   #30
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Ventilation may stop mold growth but you still have humid air that will condense on cooler surfaces causing rust, corrosion and wood swelling and rot. And you're bringing more of it into the boat.
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Old 02-03-2014, 07:51 AM   #31
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Yah...I think you are right. We have those kind here at home for what bit of mildly chilly weather passes for winter here. Came on a Wednesday this year I think.
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Old 02-03-2014, 10:26 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ksanders View Post
Replace humid stagnant air with humid fresh air and no mold grows.
... ventilation solves all the problems.
Well, not quite ... just moving air around is a good way to distribute mold spores over a larger area.

Clearing the Air:

Dockwalk-September-2013
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Old 02-03-2014, 01:33 PM   #33
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We started using an EVA Dry peltier dehumidfier this fall. It works great! Practical Sailor did a review a few months back of various methods of dealing with humidity. Of all the mechanical soluations, the peltier dehumidifiers came in tops in terms of energy use and noise (compared with compressor driven dehumidfiers). The article mentioned freezing issues if the air temp drops below the 50s or so, as I recall. It won't damage the unit, but they did suggest in cooler climates putting the dehumidifier on a timer so that it has time to defrost during part of the day (overnight being best as that is when it will be coolest). We also run an oilfilled radiator space heater in the winter.
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