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Old 10-06-2019, 12:19 AM   #21
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What a money saver on the Noflex! Thanks!
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Old 10-06-2019, 12:22 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HeadMistress View Post
The 'burp' - It is at the waste port and it happens when I first open the valve for the pump out hose. If I open it any way other than really really slowly it sort of burps or hiccups...and some stuff squirts out.


Something has to be pressurizing the tank...Opening the deck pumpout fittingcreates an escape for the pressure. I don't know what else besides a blocked vent could pressurize a tank, but it's not gonna quit "burping" and spitting up till you find out and fix it.


--Peggie
The burp isn't when I open the deck waste, it's when I start the pump out. Right at the beginning if I open the valve on the pump out hose there is a burp. Maybe I should be opening that valve before I push onto the waste deck fitting?
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Old 10-06-2019, 01:09 AM   #23
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Maybe it is a problem with the pumpout. Do you always use the same pumpout? Do other people have the same issue with that pumpout? If your vent is open then your tank should not be burping so maybe it isnít your boat...
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Old 10-06-2019, 01:56 AM   #24
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Sounds to me like the vent line is trapping. It must run continuously uphill, along its length, so that any moisture it receives (like said flushout or condensation) can drain back into the tank, with the possible exception of a hump at the thru hull to prevent outside water from running in.
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Old 10-06-2019, 08:44 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by dhays View Post
If you have a vent filter on your boat, the KO didnít do anything for you. It requires an adequate supply of O2 to be effective and yet with the vent filter you are guaranteed to not have enough O2.

I know Peggie rails against vent filters, but our experience -- three separate boats -- is that the filters haven't ever caused any problems.

Not a recommendation to install one, and we only keep ours so we don't blast our dock neighbors every time we flush... but anyway, it's been a non-issue for us.

If OP is getting liquid "burp" out the vent fitting, sounds like either no vent filter, or one that's been saturated so isn't working... might even be the clog in the vent line that's causing the "burp."

Dunno if that can happen or not, though...

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Old 10-06-2019, 01:36 PM   #26
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Our vent is pretty small. There are two holes the size of nostrils. I remember now that when we pump out the old vented loops (removed now as all goes straight to the tank) used to whistle. I usually pump out alone so I didn't hear it but the admiral remembered.

Going slow though took care of things as far as the burb goes.

The new solo tank monitor works great! We calibrated it last night and checked it out. I'm wondering if the next time we pump out about putting a lot of the cheaper amazon digester in the tank and filling it up with clean water. The go for a run around the bay. Maybe that would get our old in-tank sensor working too.

I still have to figure out the shower. When I was under things I could see the wood is pretty wet - water running down the back wall of the shower where there is a cabinet.
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Old 10-06-2019, 01:50 PM   #27
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I recently found a way to add a larger more direct vent. I also left my DIY 12V fish tank aerator operating. I dont see the value in the Groco system when you DIY for $50 or less.
Belt and suspenders good and no head odors in several yrs.
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More venting is great. However, you may find that with the additional vent you may not need the Groco Sweetank. Likewise, if you did install the Groco Sweetank you likely wouldnít need the extra vent.

FWIW, I rolled my own holding tank aerator using a 12v bait tank aerator and a bit of pvp piping. The whole project was about $50 or about 1/7th the cost of the Groco.
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Old 10-06-2019, 02:01 PM   #28
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As liveaboards who regularly shower on the boat, we have a 12V engine room blower that is Y'd to the head. The vent in the head (which is up high near the overhead) can be open or closed. We leave it open to evacuate steam from showers, and close if underway and employing the blower for the engine room. We rarely need to use the blower for the engine room, as keeping the port lights open on each side of the ER keeps it from getting too hot in the PNW.

However, beyond just using a vent fan for the shower, we also use a dehumidifier. On average, it runs about 8 hours a day during the winter when the boat is continuously closed up in an effort to keep the heat in.
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Old 10-06-2019, 08:32 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyWright View Post
I thought NoFlex had some sort of solids-digesting microbe or bacteria that thrived in the O2 rich environment. Now that I read the page closely, it appears that I am mistaken.

https://www.marinesan.com/Noflex-digestor-p/noflex.htm

https://www.marinesan.com/Tank-Teria...tank-teria.htm
Here is the MSDS sheet with the ingredients. The Sodium Percarbonate I use is a very similar chemical to the disodium carbonate which makes up 80% of NoFlex.
http://algoma.msdsworld.com/msds/English/34525.pdf
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Old 10-07-2019, 06:33 PM   #30
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It sounds like it mostly just make oxygen which lets the bugs already there do their thing. I'm going to try it out for sure.
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Old 10-07-2019, 07:14 PM   #31
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My Amazon review for the Voker vent filter.$47.99

7, 2019
Verified Purchase
In a world where nothing really works, I would have been happy with any improvement to my holding tank smell. But this filter worked 100%. Easy to install. I went from a toxic cloud that swept the dock killing every living thing, every time I flushed, to no smell whatsoever. I was worried at first that the vent was actually plugged by the filter. But confirmed by the slight breeze that air was escaping. It lasted almost exactly one year on my liveaboard boat. Just installed my second one. And, no more chemicals.
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Old 10-08-2019, 06:46 AM   #32
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I could write a similar review for a $30 fish tank aerator that has worked well for about 5 seasons.
Get air into the tank and smell ceases.
Quote:
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My Amazon review for the Voker vent filter.$47.99

7, 2019
Verified Purchase
In a world where nothing really works, I would have been happy with any improvement to my holding tank smell. But this filter worked 100%. Easy to install. I went from a toxic cloud that swept the dock killing every living thing, every time I flushed, to no smell whatsoever. I was worried at first that the vent was actually plugged by the filter. But confirmed by the slight breeze that air was escaping. It lasted almost exactly one year on my liveaboard boat. Just installed my second one. And, no more chemicals.
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Old 10-08-2019, 07:43 AM   #33
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I second the drain vs sump comment. Our shower is below waterline so can't run it directly out. Instead, we installed a regular drain to a shower box with a gulper pump from the shower box out. Installed a water witch 'float' sensor in the box to turn on the pump when it's full. Has worked for 2 years straight no clogs, no smell, and no gross sump in the shower.
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Old 10-08-2019, 10:16 AM   #34
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Both my forward shower and v-berth air handler condensate drain emptied into the forward bilge/sump which was drained by a bilge pump. It was always wet. I plumbed them both into a Whale Gulper IC manifold and pump. The manifold has a solid state sensor that turns the pump on when water rises in the manifold, then shuts off with a 15 second delay. Bilge is now bone dry, and pump has been completely problem free. Planning to install another to handle the aft shower and aft deck sink drain. [picture is rotated 90 deg clockwise]
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Old 10-09-2019, 12:54 AM   #35
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Quote:
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I could write a similar review for a $30 fish tank aerator that has worked well for about 5 seasons.
Get air into the tank and smell ceases.
Glad it works, makes sense that it would. Does the excess air escape via the vent?
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Old 10-09-2019, 01:34 AM   #36
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We had an 80 gallon holding tank in a previous boat that would knock you off the dock when we flushed a head. I tried a bunch of different chemicals and nothing worked. Talked to Peggie and she recommended a Groco Sweetank. I installed it and in 2 hours the smell was absolutely gone. Had that boat for another 7 years and never put a drop of chemicals in the holding tank and no smell. Yes the excess air just goes out the vent. I am going to put a Sweetank in our current boat this winter.
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Old 10-09-2019, 05:09 AM   #37
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Glad it works, makes sense that it would. Does the excess air escape via the vent?
Yes but it's so lo flow it's hard to tell. It runs 24/7 and amp draw is also very lo
Cost about 1/10 a Sweettank so I figured not a big loss if it didn't work. If I needed to replace the pump every year it was still a bargain but running for 4-5 yrs now (short season in NE) w no issues.
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Old 10-11-2019, 12:56 PM   #38
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If we ever have to remove our genny I'll probably install a sweettank / air pump type deal. But as it is I can barely reach the tank - just enough to tape on the Solo external monitor.

While I was installing that monitor I discovered that our shower sump needs to be cleaned more often than annually It isn't smelly but it looks awful - and probably does smell but the looks of it made me not want to stick my head down close to find out.
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Old 10-11-2019, 01:40 PM   #39
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well, we just remodeled our shower.
Had a PVC pan made with 4 inch sided and a lower drain opening in which we mounted the intelligence Whale shower pump. The drain has sensor and connects to the pump which is about 6 feet away , about 2 foor above the shower pan. For walls we used two standard shower panels which were made of this aluminum with a picture printed on them
For ventilation I first thought of making a humidity control fan with an Arduino, but while searching on ebay, I found a complete humidity control unit ( 12 or 24V) for only a few $$ more than JUST the sensor, connected the unit to a small computer fan and it turn on once the humidity goes above a set point

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Old 10-11-2019, 02:31 PM   #40
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Quote:
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Shower handheld head? Ours dribble a lot when you push the button to turn them off. Is there a brand that turns off entirely? We often use the handheld shower to rinse out the toilet bowl. Seems like it uses less water and gets the job done quickly. (Both of our heads can now be flushed without adding water.)
The best handheld showerhead is the Oxygenics - good pressure with minimal water use even with a low pressure pump. We love ours. See:
https://www.amazon.com/Oxygenics-Whi...=thedrive09-20
The Oxygenics comes with a push button shut off but it dribbles like all the rest. I've been told that this is a government requirement to avoid scalding from a pressure difference in the hot and cold water lines. If you turn the water off completely, the pressure in the hot water tank can push the cold water back down the pipe a little and when you turn the water back on you can get a blast of 100% hot water. I've found that to be the case occasionally, but the water isn't hot enough to scald me. So, I installed a valve to turn the water off completely without changing the hot/cold mix. Here's the one I use:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It's plug and play with the hand held shower hose so easy to install.

If you keep your hot water scalding hot, a tempering/mixing valve installed at the hot water heater can solve the problem. Here's one for 1/2" water lines:
https://www.amazon.com/Thermostatic-...38&s=hi&sr=1-6
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