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Old 05-14-2013, 12:11 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by FlyWright View Post
The Honda eu2000i is rated for 2000W peak/1600W continuous. This translates to 13.3 amps continuous (120V). If you really need 1800W continuous for the induction cooktop, the Honda eu2000i won't cut the mustard.

Yamaha has the EF2400 which is rated for 2400W peak/2000W continuous. This would be a better choice for an 1800W load.
No disagreement whatsoever -- the EF2400 would be the better choice in that case. However, I will just mention in passing that the induction cooktop is adjustable from zero heat to maximum heat (unfortunately, usually in increments rather than continuous) so just using a lower setting would make it use less power. For someone who might already have the Honda 2000 that would be an option when using an induction cooktop with 1800 watts at full power. Just dial it down some.
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Old 11-20-2014, 07:32 PM   #22
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Last idea seems a good so
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Old 11-20-2014, 07:33 PM   #23
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Old 11-21-2014, 06:48 AM   #24
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Propane allows 3 or 4 burners , has instantly adjustable heat settings and usually gas an oven of modest size.

The sail boat swinging models are best if installed outboard parallel to the boats sides.

A fixed range is OK if bulkhead mounted as an errant hot pot doesnt get tossed AT the cook.

One burner cooking is not even usual for a 22 ft trailer boat , it is a crude lifestyle , tho with enough power a microwave can help.
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Old 11-21-2014, 07:13 AM   #25
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Would the Induction type cook top may a good replacement to the Electric/Alcohol combo? I just bought a Mainship 34 1984 and not very happy with the E/A combo!
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I think it take alot of amps, like 30 to 40 whcih most boats do not have. On a boat you have to watch the amp demand.

Old thread...


Do induction cooktops draw more current than earlier electric cooktops?

OP already has electric cooktops...

FWIW, I've planned to replace our glass-top burners with induction if the originals ever crap out. Yes, we have to run the genset to cook, but OTOH, we also have to run the genset to recharge batteries, and we can usually manage to time those to activities together easily enough...

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Old 11-21-2014, 07:25 PM   #26
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so the maximum heat would be 1800 watts, which translates into about 15 amps at 110 volts.

15A at 110v does not include 10% or so loss from the inverter.

t best that 15A/110V will translate to a minimum of 150A at 12V which is a heck of a load on a house battery set.

Frankly unless the boat has an extraordinary house bank , the set will be dead in under an hour.
This is correct.

And once the batteries are "dead" they have been permanently damaged.

Trying to beat a boat or a stove with an inverter and battery bank is a loosing proposition except for short bursts like a microwave, coffee maker or hair drier.

I will admit to running an electric heater on low a couple times when it was really cold but the boat was underway and the batteries were being charged as they were being used.
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