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Old 09-11-2015, 12:57 PM   #321
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Originally Posted by Moonstruck View Post
Capt. Bill, it is likely I saw one of the Marlows you mentioned. It was in a shed at the Marlow facility on Sneed Island. There was a good deal of bow damage from a collision with the Boca Grande sea buoy.
That's one of them. Because that is what I was told they hit.
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Old 09-11-2015, 01:44 PM   #322
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Really? Worked on a lot of strainers since the late 70s and I don't ever recall seeing a true glass bodied one that I recall. Can't even imagine why they would have made one like that. Seems like an accident waiting to happen.

But hey, I certainly haven't seen everything. Thank goodness.
So, your boat didn't come with a visible strainer!

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Old 09-11-2015, 02:14 PM   #323
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So, your boat didn't come with a visible strainer!

No, they are all invisible.
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Old 09-13-2015, 03:39 PM   #324
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I like to keep appearances in the ER. In order to spray paint parts of the engine without overspray I use aluminum foil as masking.


Use regular painters tape for clean lines at hoses etc then wrap the foil around what ever you want to protect. The tape will give good paint line control while the foil will self hold to irregular shapes.
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Old 09-13-2015, 03:52 PM   #325
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Use regular painters tape for clean lines at hoses etc then wrap the foil around what ever you want to protect. The tape will give good paint line control while the foil will self hold to irregular shapes.
Excellent suggestion and technique. I'll try to remember this one. Thanks for posting it.
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Old 09-13-2015, 06:01 PM   #326
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I like to keep appearances in the ER. In order to spray paint parts of the engine without overspray I use aluminum foil as masking.


Use regular painters tape for clean lines at hoses etc then wrap the foil around what ever you want to protect. The tape will give good paint line control while the foil will self hold to irregular shapes.
Foil works great. I've also found making a thick solution of dish soap and water or using hand cleaner you can brush it on the odd hard to mask parts and areas. And then just wash it and the paint stuck to the soap off after you spray paint.
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Old 09-13-2015, 06:37 PM   #327
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Sun deck fender hangers.
I fabricated a pair of aluminum hook straps and riveted a pair "the tighter you go the more I hold" line adjusters after removing the blue strap- to drop two lines in an awkward place to support one of our fender boards.

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Old 09-15-2015, 07:58 PM   #328
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Was reminded of this one today...RainX those pilothouse windows once a month and never need those wipers again!!!
Also works when painting window frames. Any paint smudges do not adhere. When dry, the paint just flakes off the glass. Be sure to keep it off the frames though.
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Old 09-15-2015, 08:09 PM   #329
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I had a detailer who put Rain X on the windshields once. Didn't do jack vs green water coming over the bow. Nice for rain drops though.
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Old 09-15-2015, 08:37 PM   #330
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Rain-X doesn't do much here, either. What we get on our windshield is not heavy rain but fine rain or mist. This isn't heavy enough to run down the windshield on its own so even with Rain-X we have to use the wipers, which takes the Rain-X off. So we don't bother with it anymore.

It is handy on our small boat that takes a lot of spray in rough water. However it's only good for one or two trips and then it has to be reapplied.
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Old 09-15-2015, 09:40 PM   #331
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Yes, but using Rain-X or one of the newer better glass treatments makes your glass much easier to keep clean and stops the formation of mineral spots and etching. Which may not be a big issue in the PNW but is in a lot of other boating areas. So it is not a waste of time.

And Rain-X at least lasts 1-2 months. The newer glass treatments last much, much longer. Especially if you properly polish out your windows before applying them.
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Old 09-15-2015, 09:47 PM   #332
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The newer glass treatments last much, much longer. Especially if you properly polish out your windows before applying them.
This is a "Tips and Techniques" thread so give us a tip on the newer glass treatments and the technique to properly polish out the windows.
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Old 09-15-2015, 09:58 PM   #333
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Yes, but using Rain-X or one of the newer better glass treatments makes your glass much easier to keep clean and stops the formation of mineral spots and etching. Which may not be a big issue in the PNW but is in a lot of other boating areas. So it is not a waste of time.

And Rain-X at least lasts 1-2 months. The newer glass treatments last much, much longer. Especially if you properly polish out your windows before applying them.
I think of it as sealer vs. repellent and although Rain-X has changed their formula, many of the others are sealants from their origination. Some are really paint sealers also usable on glass. What do you use, Bill?
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Old 09-16-2015, 12:04 AM   #334
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Yesterday while I was in the yard for our boat launch I got to talking to the yard manager about adjusting the packing nut on a shaft log. While this had nothing to do with the problem the boat had been in the yard for, I have never been happy with the tools I have for the purpose of adjusting the packing nut and its locknut. So I asked the manager what the yard used.

He said they use a tool I'd never heard of, an offset hex wrench. He showed me one and I could immediately see its advantages. It has the leverage to free a seized locking nut but requires minimal clearance around the packing and lock nuts. Much better for this application than a pipe wrench and much more robust than the flimsy little packing nut wrenches they sell at places like West Marine.

So I bought two of them on my way to work.
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Old 09-16-2015, 12:05 AM   #335
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This is a "Tips and Techniques" thread so give us a tip on the newer glass treatments and the technique to properly polish out the windows.

Well to start with, most all of the polymer sealants like Zaino, Rejex, etc. work at least as well and last much longer than Rain-X.

To truly polish out glass I've found you need to use a real glass polish and felt polishing pads with a machine like an orbital polisher and a triangle sander to get in the corners and edges. Or at least a round felt pad that attaches to a drill. It can be done by hand of course. But it goes a lot faster with the machines. And for really badly pitted or mineral etched windows you may need to polish twice.

As to what polish to use, Eastwood sells some good stuff. And of course you can use cerium oxide.

The polish and glass treatment used on my current boats windows are from these folks

https://yachtsurfacerestoration.com/...glass-surfaces

And I could not be more please with the results. The windows are as smooth as, well, well polished out glass. :-) And the sealant has been keeping them that way for the last 3 1/2 months/3000 plus miles of this trip so far without having to renew it even once. And of course they are very easy to clean. Even after running all day in snotty weather and they're caked with salt. The salt just rinses off easily with plain water.
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Old 09-16-2015, 07:27 AM   #336
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Just though of a couple of other tips.

To clean oily spots left on teak by suntan lotion, potatoe chips, etc. Use K2r spot remover.

And the keep metal cans from leaving rust rings after there bottom edges start to rust, cover the bottom edge with masking tape when the can is new.
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Old 09-16-2015, 07:48 AM   #337
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That's a great idea on the masking table in the cans. I'm having a helluva time when guests visit the boat getting them to flip the Lysol back on its cap after they leave the head!!!



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Old 09-16-2015, 07:52 AM   #338
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A quick tip many of you are aware of: used fire hose can often be gotten from your local fire department for free and makes phenomenal chafe guards.
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Old 09-16-2015, 08:33 AM   #339
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I use washing machine drain hose for chafe guards on my 5/8' and 1" dock lines.


Cheap and easy to deal with get it at Home Depot. It is smooth inside so seems to set up little friction on the line. After 5 years the line inside the hose was like new.
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Old 09-16-2015, 08:37 AM   #340
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Quote:
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I use washing machine drain hose for chafe guards on my 5/8' and 1" dock lines.


Cheap and easy to deal with get it at Home Depot. It is smooth inside so seems to set up little friction on the line. After 5 years the line inside the hose was like new.
Temporally... Gorilla tape works well in a pinch when docking or rafting.
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