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Old 04-07-2014, 09:16 PM   #21
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Interestingly, I was just boarded and checked about a month ago by FWC near Carrabelle, well within the 3 miles limit.

My head pumps directly to the holding tank, no Y valve. From the tanks you can either pump out through the deck fitting or open the macerator discharge seacock and turn on the macerator pump. Though the outflow is below the water line, I can tell you from experience that nothing comes out until you turn the macerator pump on.

I had no zip tie/lock etc on the seacock. The officer asked to see the discharge through hull and asked me how the system worked. I explained it to him and showed him the steps. He looked to make sure the seacock was closed then said: "that's fine skipper, thanks."

Just my experience.

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Old 04-07-2014, 10:47 PM   #22
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I too need to perform some re plumbing of the pump out system on my boat.
The forward and aft heads discharge directly to the holding tank so I am OK there. There is a macerator plumbed from the holding tank to an above the waterline thru hull. I want/need to add a deck pump out fitting. The macerator is very close to the tank and running a Y valve before the macerator and a long hose to the deck will be a big deal. Can I put the Y valve after the macerator and use a dockside pump out facility to draw through the macerator?
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Old 04-07-2014, 11:30 PM   #23
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As Ron and others have pointed out, they don't want to make it impossible for you to discharge overboard, just make sure you can't say it was an accident.

I really like the idea of a combination hold and treat system like Raritan sells. It combines an Elecrto Scan treatment system with a holding tank so you can discharge where ever it's legal to dump treated waste or hold it aboard in the few NDZ's you encounter.

db2, no you won't be able to draw through a typical macerator pump with chopper blades and a rubber impeller. You might be able to draw through a diaphram pump but I've never heard of anyone doing that. My gut feeling is that it wouldn't work very well. You don't need a Y valve between the tank and the pump, just a Tee with one hose going to the deck fitting and one to the pump.
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Old 04-08-2014, 05:53 AM   #24
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On our boat we simply used a simple Y (not a Y valve) at the deck fitting.

By leaving the cap out (and in a drawer) the overboard discharge system is totally disabled . DONE.

No smell as plenty of air ventilates the system.

######


I hope those valves shown in a photo , just stuck on the end of a thru hull are well above the heeled water lone.

Seacocks for below water use are BOLTED in place and not just stuck on the end of a thin thru hull , which has threads to match a sea cock, not a tapered pipe valve.
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Old 04-08-2014, 07:34 AM   #25
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look it up like in the link I provided or look on the chart...I know a lot of people don't like planning trips...but it does come in handy.
How common are setups where the head can discharge directly overboard? Is that mostly on old boats built before the discharge laws?

Mine discharges into a holding tank which holds sewage until it is either pumped out through a deck fitting by a pumpout boat/marina or is discharged overboard by operating the macerator pump. There can be no "accidental" discharge of sewage.

When I bought the boat, the macerator switch was a push button (from the factory). I replaced the push button switch with a key switch and keep the key in a drawer, not in the switch.
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Old 04-08-2014, 08:07 AM   #26
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Here's our setup: We have two heads,coach one can be directed to go in the holding tank or out a thru-hull, and holding tank can be emptied by a breaker on the main panel, their is also a sea cock below the water line for discharge.
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Old 04-08-2014, 08:37 AM   #27
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As Ron and others have pointed out, they don't want to make it impossible for you to discharge overboard, just make sure you can't say it was an accident.

I really like the idea of a combination hold and treat system like Raritan sells. It combines an Elecrto Scan treatment system with a holding tank so you can discharge where ever it's legal to dump treated waste or hold it aboard in the few NDZ's you encounter.

.
THis is pretty much my system. Both toilets go to the Lectsan Processing tank, is processed (all bacteria killed) and then is pushed to the Y valve, which either directs it to the holding tank or to a below water level seacock for discharge.

On my holding tank, I have the deck fitting for pump out and also another below sea level sea cock connected to a a pump on my electrical panel so I can pump the holding tank out to sea also.

I've been inspected once in NC and they saw my holding tank seacock was closed and that was good enough. (yes, I understand what that means, but let's not mention it)

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Old 04-08-2014, 11:26 AM   #28
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I replaced the push button switch with a key switch and keep the key in a drawer, not in the switch.
I would like to do this. Is there a brand of switch that fits in the standard panel slot? Do you remember what kind of keyed switch you used?
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Old 04-08-2014, 12:04 PM   #29
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I really like the idea of a combination hold and treat system like Raritan sells. It combines an Elecrto Scan treatment system with a holding tank so you can discharge where ever it's legal to dump treated waste or hold it aboard in the few NDZ's you encounter.
We have a Raritan Hold N Treat.

The version we installed combines a small holding tank (15 gallons) and a Purasan type 1 treatment system.

On this system it is approved to put the key switch located on the status/controller in the "no discharge" position for NDZ compliance.

I love the hold n treat.

We can put the unit in auto and forget about human waste. When in a NDZ we put the unit in "no discharge".

Its really that simple. I have to replace the disinfectant cartridge once a season or so, and thats it. Once we start cruising more I'm guessing the cartridge will last 3 months or so as its good for around 900 treatment cycles, which equates to something well over a thousand flushes.
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Old 04-08-2014, 12:12 PM   #30
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I too need to perform some re plumbing of the pump out system on my boat.
The forward and aft heads discharge directly to the holding tank so I am OK there. There is a macerator plumbed from the holding tank to an above the waterline thru hull. I want/need to add a deck pump out fitting. The macerator is very close to the tank and running a Y valve before the macerator and a long hose to the deck will be a big deal. Can I put the Y valve after the macerator and use a dockside pump out facility to draw through the macerator?
Nope, you can't suck poop through the macerator. It seems really odd that your boat doesn't have a provision for being pumped out.

You don't need a "Y" valve, just a "Y". My boat has two outlets on the holding tank, one for overboard discharge through the macerator and the other leading to the deck fitting for a marina or pumpout boat. If there's only one outlet on your holding tank, put a simple "Y" fitting between the tank outlet and tour macerator and run the other outlet of the "Y" to your deck fitting. Make the run as short as practical and uphill all the way, no dips to collect sewage.
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Old 04-08-2014, 12:17 PM   #31
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I would like to do this. Is there a brand of switch that fits in the standard panel slot? Do you remember what kind of keyed switch you used?
The switch was/is not in the panel (I'm assuming you mean the electrical panel). If you have a circuit breaker to run the macerator, all you have to do is install a switch (with a 20 amp capacity) in the positive lead between the electrical panel and the macerator. It can be any place convenient and you can extend the wiring if needed.

I think I bought the switch at West Marine. It was not expensive. You have a choice of momentary (you have to hold the key in the run position) or maintained contact (turn the switch, let go, then turn it off when finished). This is more convenient.
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Old 04-08-2014, 12:54 PM   #32
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The switch was/is not in the panel (I'm assuming you mean the electrical panel). If you have a circuit breaker to run the macerator, all you have to do is install a switch (with a 20 amp capacity) in the positive lead between the electrical panel and the macerator. It can be any place convenient and you can extend the wiring if needed.

I think I bought the switch at West Marine. It was not expensive. You have a choice of momentary (you have to hold the key in the run position) or maintained contact (turn the switch, let go, then turn it off when finished). This is more convenient.
Thanks,
It's not a good picture but you can see the electrical panel here. The 2nd switch from the bottom is the macerator, and more than once someone has brushed past it and turned it on getting out of the aft berth. No discharge takes place because the seacock is closed, but the pump runs which isn't good. I was hoping that there was a keyed switch that would just replace the toggle switch directly. It's possible that an ignition switch would fit directly in the panel though. The boat comes out of winter storage this weekend, so I can check soon.

Thanks for your feedback!
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Old 04-08-2014, 02:36 PM   #33
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Thanks,
It's not a good picture but you can see the electrical panel here. The 2nd switch from the bottom is the macerator, and more than once someone has brushed past it and turned it on getting out of the aft berth. No discharge takes place because the seacock is closed, but the pump runs which isn't good. I was hoping that there was a keyed switch that would just replace the toggle switch directly. It's possible that an ignition switch would fit directly in the panel though. The boat comes out of winter storage this weekend, so I can check soon.

Thanks for your feedback!
If you want to physically replace the switch, you'll just have to look around. West Marine has lots of switches. You don't need a "marine" switch but unless there's a good electronics supply store in your area (NOT Radio Shack), West Marine may be your best bet.
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Old 04-08-2014, 02:39 PM   #34
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any on/off keyed start switch will work...try auto parts stores...maybe even a hardware store where they sell garden tractor supplies.
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Old 04-08-2014, 10:57 PM   #35
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