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Old 12-25-2011, 09:10 AM   #1
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Windows

Inquiry --** has anyone replaced the windows in their salon/saloon (uh-oh)?

What kind of glass did you use for the replacement?**** KJ
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Old 12-25-2011, 10:00 AM   #2
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RE: Windows

I was either going to use this http://www.eplastics.com/Plastic/Ple...=49%2C96%2C108
or get some tempered glass. I've got lots of windows to replace.
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Old 12-25-2011, 11:12 AM   #3
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RE: Windows

Might be my summer project.* May replace all the sliders with fixed and*the stern*salon windows with a couple top hinged (sliders on boats seem to be a constant battle).

May go with these as most aluminum frames are powder coated and after a few years or less if nicked get ugley fast...

http://www.marinelitewindows.com/en/...n/pattern.html*
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Old 12-25-2011, 12:07 PM   #4
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RE: Windows

We have rebuilt almost all the 21 windows in our boat. We use what the manufacturer used--- laminated safety glass. This glass will crack but not shatter.
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Old 12-25-2011, 01:10 PM   #5
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Windows

Quote:
psneeld wrote:
Might be my summer project.* May replace all the sliders with fixed and*the stern*salon windows with a couple top hinged (sliders on boats seem to be a constant battle).

May go with these as most aluminum frames are powder coated and after a few years or less if nicked get ugley fast...

http://www.marinelitewindows.com/en/...n/pattern.html*
Nice pattern, I can see where that would make easy work*with smaller window openings.**I did my 9 foot long, one piece wood frames, aft cabin windows and that was a joy.* No choice but to take them out first.

I also eliminated the sliders and haven't missed them for a moment.* In the aft head, I installed a vent fan into an engine room exhaust vent to deal with the shower moisture.

I went with anodized aluminum frames*and after*6 years they still look great.* Be sure and follow the manufactures instruction for installation.* That double backed gasket supplied with the windows seemed unimpressive, but those who choose to use sealer instead, especially 5200, will regret it in a few years when their windows begin to leak.

Larry B


-- Edited by Edelweiss on Sunday 25th of December 2011 02:17:40 PM
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Old 12-25-2011, 01:22 PM   #6
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RE: Windows

Quote:
swampu wrote:
I was either going to use this http://www.eplastics.com/Plastic/Ple...=49%2C96%2C108
or get some tempered glass. I've got lots of windows to replace.
Keep in mind that Pexiglas scratches pretty easily (Lexan is even worse in this regard although it's stronger).* If your windows are the sorts of things that people may be brushing up against as they walk down the deck or there is a likelihood of somebody scraping them with a boathook or whatever, I think you will be pretty disappointed if you use either Plex or Lexan.
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Old 12-25-2011, 04:20 PM   #7
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RE: Windows

diamond sea glass great windows and great service
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Old 12-25-2011, 04:35 PM   #8
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RE: Windows

Quote:
psneeld wrote:
Might be my summer project.* May replace all the sliders with fixed and*the stern*salon windows with a couple top hinged (sliders on boats seem to be a constant battle).

May go with these as most aluminum frames are powder coated and after a few years or less if nicked get ugley fast...

http://www.marinelitewindows.com/en/...n/pattern.html*
*Really happy with my Marinelite window. 7 years of heavy use without leaking a drop (including green water on the slider).
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Old 12-25-2011, 06:23 PM   #9
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RE: Windows

Just did my windows,this past summer. Used these folks and highly ewcommend them. http://www.wynneinc.com/*Great product,better service. Used plastic.

*

John
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Old 12-25-2011, 07:02 PM   #10
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RE: Windows

Quote:
KJ wrote:
Inquiry --** has anyone replaced the windows in their salon/saloon (uh-oh)?

What kind of glass did you use for the replacement?**** KJ
*Second part of the question* --* are your windows clear or tinted?*
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Old 12-25-2011, 07:12 PM   #11
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RE: Windows

I think very light tint forward with darker tint on sides and aft.* But I plan to*summer as far north as New Jersey (occasionally farther*north)*and winter south near Florida.
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Old 12-26-2011, 04:30 AM   #12
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RE: Windows

"I think very light tint forward with darker tint on sides and aft. "

Might be great in Maine where extra heat in the cabin during the day is good.

For southern boats remember ANY tinting works by absorbing the solar energy anr turning it into heat.

This heat is IN your cabin and impossible to reject.

Far better for a Southeren boat is CLEAR glass and inside window covering (white/reflective) that can reflect the energy (heat) outside.

Want proof ? , touch any dark glass while it faces the sun.
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Old 12-26-2011, 04:55 AM   #13
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RE: Windows

Quote:
FF wrote:
"I think very light tint forward with darker tint on sides and aft. "

Might be great in Maine where extra heat in the cabin during the day is good.

For southern boats remember ANY tinting works by absorbing the solar energy anr turning it into heat.

This heat is IN your cabin and impossible to reject.

Far better for a Southeren boat is CLEAR glass and inside window covering (white/reflective) that can reflect the energy (heat) outside.

Want proof ? , touch any dark glass while it faces the sun.
*Could you please direct me to one source that agrees with you.* EVERY source I've read disagrees.* The entire Car industry disagrees with you.

I'm interested in your theory...but it just doesn't sgree with what I have read.

Besides, the tinting isn't only to reduce heat gain...it just cuts down on brightnes/glares in sunny areas.
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Old 12-26-2011, 08:00 AM   #14
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RE: Windows

I replaced the two forward sliders on the house last spring.* The old, 1981 vintage windows leaked whenever we ran in heavy weather and took waves across the bow.* We are very happy with the results and the customer service from AJR Windows of Port Coquitlam, BC.* Their website is www.ajr-windows.com.

The windows were fabricated using 1/4" laminated and untinted glass.* The forward portion of the window slides aft for ventilation.* Assembly included screens on the inside of both windows.* Total cost was $1,152 U.S. with no taxes and no delivery charges (we drove across the border and picked them up in British Columbia).* I did the installation myself.* Installation was straight forward once I cleaned and enlarged the openings to accomodate the new windows.* The old windows were adhered into place using 5200 or a similar caulking compound.* Major effort to remove the aluminum frames.* I destroyed one of the old windows removing it from the house.* Our installation was complicated by a significant (about 1" along a 42" window), horizontal camber or curve to the side of the house which meant the windows had to be "bent" to conform to the shape of the house.

Here are before, during and after photos of our installation.

*
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Old 12-26-2011, 08:02 AM   #15
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RE: Windows

I have lightly tinted sides and clear front. I run a lot at night and reduced visibility (opposite of most cruisers) so thought tinting the front wasn't a good idea.
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Old 12-26-2011, 08:14 AM   #16
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RE: Windows

I look at these modern windows and think to myself, "wow- such low maintenance and no varnishing!"
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Old 12-26-2011, 10:44 AM   #17
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Quote:
KJ wrote:
*Second part of the question* --* are your windows clear or tinted?*

*Clear.* As they were originally.

And for the record, while we have rebuilt just about every window on the boat none of this was necessary to correct leaks.* We have yet to have any window leak on this boat.* Instead the rebuilds were to refinish frames, or in one case replace an entire fame section, replace clouded or delaminating glass, or to replace worn-out track in sliding windows.


-- Edited by Marin on Monday 26th of December 2011 11:47:43 AM
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Old 12-26-2011, 02:07 PM   #18
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RE: Windows

I have a cabin made of plywood covered in glass. The windows were installed using the black rubber with the spline to expand the rubber.

Problem: The plywood around the windows has rotted into powder after many years. in places all I have is the thin outer fiberglass shell. *I can't replace the windows (one Is cracked) using the original method. Has anyone had this issue and solved it?

SD
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Old 12-26-2011, 04:22 PM   #19
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Quote:
skipperdude wrote:
I have a cabin made of plywood covered in glass. The windows were installed using the black rubber with the spline to expand the rubber.

Problem: The plywood around the windows has rotted into powder after many years. in places all I have is the thin outer fiberglass shell. *I can't replace the windows (one Is cracked) using the original method. Has anyone had this issue and solved it?

SD
*It depends on how far the rot goes. My Bruno has balsa cored hull, decks, and wash boards. Had some spots as you describe.

With the window removed, use a 1/4 rod with a pointed hook on the end to scrape, gouge, and remove any loose rotted material. A shop vac and a blow gun on an air compressor will help clear most everything out. Once what is left has dried, the void should then be filled with westsystem putty. The putty is a mixture of 66% #404 High-Density filler and 33% #407 Low-Density filler mixed into westsystem epoxy. You probably don't want to fill more than 2" or 3" laterally of the void at a time. The putty expands as it cures. If you pack too much putty in the wall at one time, as the putty expands, it may make the wall bulge. Done correctly, what you end up with is a solid wall of epoxy and fiberglass. I would guess you could do this for voids to maybe 12'' deep. I use this technique when installing through hull fittings. Cut the hole, gouge the balsa back 4", and then fill the void with westsystem putty.


-- Edited by O C Diver on Monday 26th of December 2011 05:28:12 PM
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Old 12-26-2011, 06:14 PM   #20
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RE: Windows

Quote:
Steppen wrote:
**Our installation was complicated by a significant (about 1" along a 42" window), horizontal camber or curve to the side of the house which meant the windows had to be "bent" to conform to the shape of the house.*
*Steppen: *Did you have the glass company actually radius the windows to curve around the opening?

**In the last couple of months, I've seen these two Great Lakes 33's anchored here, presumably looking for weather windows to the Islands. *The first photo is "New Moon", which has a canvas and aluminum framed fly-bridge. *The second one I can't recall the name of, but had a full fiberglass fly-bridge. *The roof line and side wings really make this boat stand out.
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