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Old 12-26-2011, 08:33 PM   #21
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RE: Windows

.

If the original poster owns a Taiwanese, Hong Kong, or Singaporean type boat with wood framed windows, and just want's to replace the glass, I'd go with laminated safety glass.

When tempered glass, as used in hundreds of Marshall Boat Co./Wellcraft Californians breaks, it goes everywhere - I know because I owned a 34 and a sailboat put it's anchor thru one of the salon windows. Safe little pieces, but a open hole where the glass used to be.

Laminated safety glass stays in place - keeping most of the water out. Of course if it were weather conditions that broke the glass then the next wave is probably going to take out you laminated glass.

If the original poster is looking for manufactured windows with frames then I second the recommendation of MarineLite windows. I've had them in the little DeFever for 8 years, and they look as good as the day(s) they were installed. Pricey, but worth it.

A little polishing compound once a year to the frames - and they're brand new!

Much better than powder coated 6061.

Mike
Palm Coast FL.
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Old 12-27-2011, 01:18 AM   #22
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Windows

Quote:
Mike wrote:
If the original poster owns a Taiwanese, Hong Kong, or Singaporean type boat with wood framed windows, and just want's to replace the glass, I'd go with laminated safety glass.
*
*
*Yeah, something like that.*

"Singaporean", --- that's another new word.** KJ


-- Edited by KJ on Tuesday 27th of December 2011 02:21:41 AM
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Old 12-27-2011, 03:18 AM   #23
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RE: Windows

"Besides, the tinting isn't only to reduce heat gain...it just cuts down on brightnes/glares in sunny areas."

The heat gain is of no concern to car builders as there is usually a huge air cond setup to remove the heat.

Yes the glare and brightness will be reduced. Touch the surface to feel the temperature.

The best covering would be the reflective mirror stuff (like Bubba Lawman sun glasses) but the Hooligan Navy is instructed to search "unusual" boats.

No one has mentioned the possibility of an up grade to sea going windows.
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Old 12-27-2011, 06:17 AM   #24
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RE: Windows

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FF wrote:
"Besides, the tinting isn't only to reduce heat gain...it just cuts down on brightnes/glares in sunny areas."

The heat gain is of no concern to car builders as there is usually a huge air cond setup to remove the heat.

Yes the glare and brightness will be reduced. Touch the surface to feel the temperature.

The best covering would be the reflective mirror stuff (like Bubba Lawman sun glasses) but the Hooligan Navy is instructed to search "unusual" boats.

No one has mentioned the possibility of an up grade to sea going windows.
*Old school thinking about tinted glass...unless every manufacturer and end user is lying about light and heat transmission.* Yes it gets hot but less heat is conducted through the glass than if infra red gets through to interior surfaces.* Plus the tinting helps with reducung ultra violet and fading of interior furnishings.

What kind of sea going windows do you mean? Most of our trawlers aren't sea going enough to demand anything better than good tempered or laminated glass.
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Old 12-27-2011, 10:51 AM   #25
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RE: Windows

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Old Stone wrote:
OK, First question - Can you see the void/rot on the interior walls? If so, scrape back to solid as previously suggested, but I would NOT use any expanding material to refill the gaps. Two products - The new West Marine "Six 10" epoxy in a tube will work without sagging, or, my preference, Evercoat "Everglass short strand Fiberglass reinforced body filler (pink can in quarts). This stuff is fantastic. It is essencially Kitty Hair, but with no string in it. It works wonderfully, sets in 15 minutes, can be sanded, formed, and painted. This allows for no window removal, but of course, there is no matching surface on the interior. If yours is painted walls, then no problem. I have just replaced all the veritcal walls in the main salon, which include two 6 foot long windows and two 5 foot windows (one of each) on each side, and a 6 foot window on the back wall, and will be posting updates with pictures, but for now, find out how extensive the rotting is. If the windows are old sliders, they will continue to leak unless a new lower track is put in, or if they are fixed, make sure you recaulk the frame exteriors COMPLETELY around the windows. For that I would use the Six 10 product. These leaks will come from anywhere. My construction is the same as yours, fiberglass over ply, so be prepared for extensive rot. Go for it. I'll post pix soon.



*I can see the rot but when I was rebuilding the interior walls I framed the windows back about 2 inches* with 2x2's. Like I said reguarding the type of windows they are non opening. Just a plate of glass with the rubber rim that holds it into place I'm sure you have seen them on aluminum boats.

If I do As you suggest* and use the kitty hair or something similar. do I bond it to the old fiberglass shell as I would any fiberglass. Sand, Acetone and apply? I will have about 2" around the window perhaps 3 after removing the rubber. I think I*understand what*you are saying. I just wory about making the edge of equal thickness for the new rubber gasket.

SD

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Old 12-27-2011, 11:41 AM   #26
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RE: Windows

When we bought the Eagle it had dry rot under the four salon slider windows, so the glass had to be taken out.* I broke/cracked 3 of the 4 windows, so we decided to replace all the glass, and build back/replace exactly was original designed with a few *changes/modifications as possible. *We went with the same size safety glass did not want have to change the wood *frames/trim, and the glass to be darker.* We went with a dark bronze color which sort of went with the teak trim, mainly for privacy as our dock was open to the public, and reduce the sun.* I took the original glass to a local glass shop, Goldfinch in Everett, who made the new glass exactly the same size with rounded beveled corners that fit perfectly.
*
In the winter time I have 3/8" plex a glass over the windows that keeps the rain/cold off the windows keeping them dry and layer of warm air.* Increase the salon temp by 5+ degrees and it also reduced the draft, and no foggy/damp windows.
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Old 12-27-2011, 12:29 PM   #27
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RE: Windows

What kind of sea going windows do you mean?
Most of our trawlers aren't sea going enough to demand anything better than good tempered or laminated glass.


I was thinking o f good quality OTS (off the shelf) framed windows from most any mfg.

All the hassles with constant leaks and subsequent TT rot are caused by a cheap builder cheaping out big time by "creating" window frames from common plywood . When the sealant dries out , there goes the cabin or pilot house walls.

"Rebuilding" or creating a copy of poor construction is STILL lousey construction.

Paying the piper and installing a nice framed window requires fewer skill sets , and with good construction not only will the sealants last longer but the next R&R will take little time AND ALMOST NO BUCKS.

AS these are usually easily ordered in thermopaine style , to me that would be a seagoing up grade , even if you don't cruise often below freezing.
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Old 12-27-2011, 01:52 PM   #28
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Windows

Healhustler asked:** Steppen: Did you have the glass company actually radius the windows to curve around the opening?

OK, so this is a little hard to explain.* To order the windows you (1) take out the old windows, (2) make a template or tracing of the opening and (3) send the tracing to the manufacturer.* That all went well but I, repeat I, failed to take into account the camber on the side of the house.* So when I received the originally manufactured windows they didn't fit exactly right (actually they had about a 1" gap on the leading and trailing edges of the frames).* The manufacturer worked with me and decided he could bend the frames to fit the contour AND replace the 5/16" original laminated glass with 1/4" glass.* This allowed the single sliding pane to slide inside a slightly larger 5/16" track.*

The owner of AJR Windows was really great to work with.* He converted my mistake into a workable solution.* If we had stayed with the thicker glass then he would have been forced to reduce the size of the sliding pane or would have had to redesign it to being an awning type opening rather than a slider.


-- Edited by Steppen on Tuesday 27th of December 2011 04:17:30 PM
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Old 12-28-2011, 08:02 AM   #29
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RE: Windows

I've used the Wynn windows twice and they are great! The prices are fantastic, quality is spot on and service is excellent. Anodized frames light tinted sides, laminated smoke on last boat and green on the current boat.
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Old 12-28-2011, 11:12 AM   #30
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RE: Windows

Marin, where did you find the tracks for the sliders? We have an '86 GB 32 that is going to need to have some delaminating panes and their fuzzy tracks replaced - help?

KJ wrote:

Second part of the question -- are your windows clear or tinted?

Clear. As they were originally.

And for the record, while we have rebuilt just about every window on the boat none of this was necessary to correct leaks. We have yet to have any window leak on this boat. Instead the rebuilds were to refinish frames, or in one case replace an entire fame section, replace clouded or delaminating glass, or to replace worn-out track in sliding windows.
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Old 12-28-2011, 11:40 AM   #31
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RE: Windows

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Fairweather wrote:
Marin, where did you find the tracks for the sliders? We have an '86 GB 32 that is going to need to have some delaminating panes and their fuzzy tracks replaced - help?

We buy our stainless track and also the stainless/felt weatherstripping that goes on the edge of the fixed pane from Fisheries Supply.* We live outside Seattle so when we need it we simply drive over to Fisheris and pick it up.* But they carry the track in their on-line catalog, too.* It comes in eight foot lengths (or is it ten feet, I can't remember).

If you have not already discovered the Grand Banks owners forum I suggest you join it.* http://www.grandbanksowners.com* You can get answers to virtually every question you might have about the care and feeding of GBs there.* And, like this forum, they have a very user-friendly archives so you can easily find past discussions on just about every topic imaginable.

Also, there is a manuals section where you can read or download operators manuals for the boats themselves, engines, generaors, transmissions, etc.
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Old 12-29-2011, 12:01 PM   #32
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Windows

I see clearley what you are saying. My issue is the glass is cracked I need to replace the glass itself..* I don't have a frame on the inside. That was totally rotted away also. So I don't think I will be able to follow your example.

What was used is a rubber window gasket. It is* 2 part. The gasket and a spline to lock the glass into the gasket.

I will take some pics this weekend when I am on the boat.

Thanks

SD

*


-- Edited by skipperdude on Thursday 29th of December 2011 01:02:49 PM
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Old 12-29-2011, 12:30 PM   #33
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RE: Windows

You should be able to get that rubber gasket at a local glass shop, possibly that does automotive glass as well as residential. Just take a piece in. If you can't find any, let me know or search the web. There are a lot of suppliers out there.
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Old 12-29-2011, 12:49 PM   #34
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RE: Windows

Spot on with that Kieth. Thanks.*I tried a auto glass shop and they had just what I needed.

Most of it is for applications on a thin surround such as aluminum. But I found a shop the had* some in 3/4" to 1/4". The 3/4" for the edge and the 1/4 for the glass. They had just enough that had been laying around in the shop for years and gave me a great price.

Now to figure out how to install it on my rotted frame.

SD
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