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Old 01-21-2016, 12:48 PM   #1
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Window Gasket or Caulk

Greetings All:
Just got into a new boat project. Took port and stbd doors off to repaint and replace gaskets. Have one window off, rather a PIA getting it off because the 23 year old gasket appears to be tar. Or, the gasket was rubber and turned to tar. The below sideways pictures should give y'all an idea of what I'm working with. I don't know where to find a replacement gasket but wondered if there is a caulk that would work. I think it's going to take the heat gun to remove this stuff from the window and door, it's pretty hard to scrape. Any ideas?
Thanks
Mike
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Old 01-21-2016, 01:11 PM   #2
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Looks and scrapes like butyl. You will likely need armstrong power to get it all off. On my house, when I was replacing sealed window units that had fogged, they were bedded with that. I ended up just taking time and using an exacto knife to get it all off.

On your metal boat, you should probably rebed with the same, as they will seal forever. It comes in a 1/2" x 1/16" or 1/8" tape, wound into a roll, with a blue plastic separator. You can get it in any glass shop. To install, put the sticky side to the cleaned surface of your opening, start the blue tape at the join, put the window in place and pull off the blue plastic while pushing in on the window. Once the window has full contact, it will be a real fight to get the window out again, so it better be in the right spot.
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Old 01-21-2016, 01:16 PM   #3
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Thanks K. That stuff is tough to get off. What about a heat gun to soften it up?
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Old 01-21-2016, 01:21 PM   #4
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"Thanks K. That stuff is tough to get off. What about a heat gun to soften it up?"

Try it. Nothing to lose. Then if it doesn't help, you will just have a warm, softer mess that is still a Bit*& to get off.
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Old 01-21-2016, 01:23 PM   #5
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I second that it looks like butyl tape. I wouldn't use heat to soften it. I'd scrape what I can off and use Toluene to dissolve the rest
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Old 01-21-2016, 02:55 PM   #6
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I use a wire wheel on a variable speed drill to remove caulking and sealants. Makes short easy work with out glowing or breaking wrecking a manicure.
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Old 01-21-2016, 03:24 PM   #7
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Worth a try Phil. Thanks Just bought the toluene NM, more on that later after I give it a try.
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Old 01-21-2016, 07:09 PM   #8
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Just a suggestion...try a razor paint scraper first. I found it particularly useful when removing the caulking for my window project and was able to do so without scratching the Gelcoat. Just work carefully. I then used acetone to remove the rest.


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Old 01-21-2016, 07:27 PM   #9
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Greetings,
Mr. JD. Scraper is a good idea for the bulk. I, however, would suggest starting with a plastic scraper.

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Old 01-21-2016, 07:57 PM   #10
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Have plenty of ventilation when working with toluene. Minimize skin contact.
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Old 01-21-2016, 08:31 PM   #11
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I believe your boat is aluminum, I'd try the heat gun, easy to use and vary the amount of heat by how fast you move and how far away the nozzle is held . Wire brush might do the trick but I can see millions of tiny tarlike particles flying all over the area.
Good luck!
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Old 01-22-2016, 06:23 AM   #12
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What I see looks like a 2 part gasket from a bus windsheied .

Go to the local bus or skool bus garage or look here.,

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Old 01-22-2016, 08:32 AM   #13
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Doors removed? Why not scrape what you can, bring it to shop and have it blasted, then re paint. It would be nice to start the new glass bedding on a good, new surface.

3M has some products specifically for window bedding where you treat the glass before you bed it in place.

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Old 01-22-2016, 10:26 AM   #14
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Here's what I've tried so far:
Scraping the butyl gasket with a metal paint scraper. Slow going but works w/ the big stuff.
Toluene: dissolves the stuff but is messy all get out. Put the toluene in a hand sprayer to wet the surface which helps.
Wire wheel on a drill: Works fine on the metal window gasket area but too much gouging on the wood door. Toluene and scraping for the door, then an orbital sander.
I'll post some pictures when I get it ready to paint the door. Have not tried the heat gun because I forgot it at the boat. My guess is that heating it would cause a similar mess as the toluene. Boat fun continues. Thanks to all for the suggestions.
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Old 01-22-2016, 11:31 AM   #15
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Putty knives are good for some things. If you have a good, sharp wood chisel and work with the bevel to the base material it might make it a smidgeon easier. The wood chisel will give you a solid cutting blade with a respectable handle that you can better hold and control. A sharp chisel is designed to take off very thin layers of material (and thick stuff).
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Old 01-22-2016, 02:20 PM   #16
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Good idea chisel. Have a nice sharp one.
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Old 01-22-2016, 04:06 PM   #17
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I was using butyl rubber tape the other day. In past the stuff would stick to me, to the scissors, to everything. Not the other day. It actually behaved itself. At first I wondered, what the heck. Then I realized, it's cold out. The previous job was in the heat of summer. This job was COLD.

I see you are in Louisiana so you may not get the cold weather naturally. Try some ice or one of the cold sprays from an electronics shop or a CO2 extinguisher. Stiffening the butyl up may make it a whole lot easier to remove the stuff.

Just an idea.
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Old 01-23-2016, 12:02 AM   #18
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Pretty chilly down here tonight C, that stuff is rock hard. Not messing with it till tomorrow.
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Old 01-23-2016, 08:01 AM   #19
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Had the PO on board our boat this week. We had not talked since we bought the boat six years ago. He told me that he used 5200 when he replaced a broken salon window. He said " sorry I didn't know any better at the time". Sure hope I never have to remove that window.
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Old 01-23-2016, 10:11 AM   #20
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Not that it matters all that much to the OP's problem of how to remove this gunk, but are we sure this is butyl tape? From my limited understanding, BT may stiffen up in cold weather but never dries out or loses its gooey elasticity. ***Buy Bed-It Butyl Tape*** Photo Gallery by Compass Marine How To at pbase.com

I had some dried out black caulk on my through hull backing plates that looks more like what the OP is dealing with than BT. I'm planning to eventually rebed most fittings and windows with BT, so I really hope this isn't the same stuff.
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